Riding in the Carmogue

As promised, I have been wanting to write about this experience for several weeks, but am still digesting it. We have visited this unusual place several times in the last few years, since discovering it. When we think of France, we think walking the streets of Paris, the views in the Alps, walking the ancient towns and squares full of fresh food, we don't think of pink flamingoes, white horses, Paella, salt marshes, and bull fights. But it is all there, waiting, as it has been for thousands of years.

For me, riding was something I loved beginning at age 7 until about age 15. It was something that was relegated to summer camp, as during the school year I was figure skating, piano lessons, and gymnastics. Riding was not something on my parents' radar for me during the school year. So, having not ventured onto a horse in about 35 years, but being someone who thinks they are in sync with animals, I rode into the Carmogue via a very nice resort and stable along the main roadway into the town of St. Marie de la Mer, Les Ecuries de L'Auberge Cavaliere, website www.ecurie-camargue.fr. The resort has charming cottages with air conditioning, nice pool and great location to the beach and town without being in the town, particularly if you plan on riding.

Although the group leader spoke almost no English she made herself clear in providing instruction to the group, and we mounted for a ride into the Carmogue on a very hot day. A reservation is strongly recommended as this is a two-hour journey, and requires some planning to arrive at 9 a.m. for the early ride, for a breakfast on the road, for a white shirt to wear in the heat, jeans or long pants, and appropriate shoes, and at least a 30 sunblock as there is no shade out there on the salt flats. Helmets were provided and fitted properly by the staff.

I was mounted onto a horse named Romeo, how appropriate, given my love of Shakespeare, and romance. He was a large and headstrong horse who quickly tested me as we rode past some tasty plants, striding off the path to grab a quick snack. The first time he caught me off guard. The second time, about 10 minutes later I was aware that I definitely needed to show control over this large animal otherwise it would not be a pleasant ride, so I grabbed the reins and pulled tight and re-directed him back to the path.

The dynamic among the horses was quite apparent, who wanted to follow and who wanted to lead, who got along with who.

The ride was quite spectacular as we crossed the flats and headed toward the water, looking the birds, plants, other horses and the white-walled and thatched-roof cottages that are traditional Carmogue dwellings. This is not a mediterranean-style home or building, but something peculiar to this region. One can picture gauchos of Spain riding here, in this remote area.

The air is salty and pungent but not the thick brine smell I love in New England. We road across the flats, and came to the water where sea gulls were bobbing on the water along side numerous other birds. Finally, we came to the area where large flocks of pink flamingoes waded in the water with their heads down, feeding, looking almost like the large mechanical monsters in a Star Wars movie, picking up their head periodically to swallow, breath, observe us, then return to fishing.

We stopped to allow the horses to rest and have a snack in the brush, a plant and grasses they seemed to enjoy, and we began to trot back. The horses seemed to know that they were headed home and wanted to move faster, then the walk out, occasionally breaking into a trot and then a canter. Frankly, I was not prepared for that level of riding. My prior experience had been English-style, trotting involving posting, and cantering and beginning to jump.

This was not really western style where your legs are completely extended in the stirrups, but more modified, too short and too long all at the same time to be comfortable and have control. But I managed, got Romeo to slow down, and got back safely, on a horse happy to be back in his stable and getting some cold water to drink.

The experience was truly memorable and one to repeat.