Perfection - Le Bistrot Du Paradou

We have given up on St. Remy restaurants this week, after being burned on one dinner last week at a usually good spot, but the restaurants in town have definitely changed since Bastille Day, and the advent of high season. The crowd has changed to more tourists, as more locals and French who have vacation homes here, now go to more remote spots, or eat at home.

We have had many meals here in Provence this summer, but this evening's was quite exceptional, and not expensive at 49 euro prix fixe for soup to nuts, in this case, a soup au pistou full of garlic and basil, roast chicken with potatoes gratin, zuchini and tomato farci, wine, coffee, an enormous platter of cheese from which you can select what you would like (yes with fig confiture), and a lovely dessert. Too much food in fact, even for both of us, as we were quite hungry when we arrived at 8:30 for dinner.

The setting is unusual, on the main road from Maussane les Alpilles to Fontvielle, with a large seating area outside, but it is used only for a welcome aperitif, which was quite pleasant, especially tonight with a breeze. Then, when you are ready you are seated inside in the very warm and comfortable interior, which a large bar running the length of the dinning room, an open kitchen off to one side with a special chef's table next to it. The kitchen was open so I could observe all the meals being plated as the tables and waiters were ready.


Everything was well-prepared, very classic Provencal country-style food. The crowd, although included some French, was more American and British this evening. The walls in the restaurant were covered in celebrity photos, possibly of those who have eaten there. And, this evening, I did notice one older French gentlemen whose portrait was on the wall, in a younger era.

We will return one more time during the week, as this was a Saturday night, to see if there is a different crowd, and how the menu changes. A memorable meal which continued into an interesting experience on the way home - look at the next post for more.