Sunday, July 31, 2011

Market Day in Apt with stops in Lacoste and Menerbes

We had not yet been to Apt market day, a Saturday, so yesterday we got up early and drove the 30 minutes, arriving a little later than we planned, and the market was bustling and enormous, winding through the streets and squares of the city. We were fortunate because it was not a hot day and we could see more than usual. The prices for clothes were as high as everywhere else, but for other items, better, such as the folding cloth provence baskets. Other markets have them for about 10 euro, here I found several vendors in the 5 euro range.

As always, I was able to find the white truffles for a very low price of 7 euro for two nice sized truffles. Today was a truffle omelette day, thanks to Apt.

The market smelled like heaven with the spices, flowers, and fresh food. Our favorite cheese vendor was there and happy to see us traveling from St. Remy and Eygelieres. We saw our scarf lady, Kim's booth, but she was not there (the same one from St. Remy and Isle Sur la Sorgue).

We found a lovely little coffee shop where the aroma of freshly ground coffee was wafting out the door, and a table for two was available outside. They even had decaf (de-caffeine or sans caffeine). Although I have not had a Starbucks in four weeks now, I was doing well with not craving it until I got the coffee smell and taste again, now Starbucks is calling my name and I am dreaming of frappuccinos and cappuccinos.

On our return, we had seen the sign to Lacoste, and took a detour into heaven.

The village is set high on a hill with the chateau that previously belonged to the Marquis de Sade, and which was in ruins until it was purchased and restored by Pierre Cardin. The village now has an arts festival there each summer including opera and ballet. The village also has a program related to the Savannah College of Art and Design and we observed many American students walking the town, thinking how fortunate they were at such a young age to experience Provence.

We walked the streets which are so old an so narrow, even a small European car would find it difficult to transit, so many streets are blocked to auto traffic. In a small square we found the Cafe de Sade and had lunch overlooking the spectacular sweeping views of the Luberon valley.

As we left and continued down the mountain, we also drove through Menerbes, the setting for the Peter Mayle books about Provence. A lovely small village that may be worth a return walk. Next year, as our time now is winding down.




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