Are all cars in Germany black?

Many years ago Henry Ford, when asked about producing cars in different colors, stated that customers could purchase a car in any color they wanted, so long as it was black.

For several years we have noticed that nearly all the cars with German plates we see here are black. We have seen them on the autoroute, even on the autobahn in Germany, black car after black car, Mercedes, Porsche, VW audi, even the Alfa Romeo.

So we asked a few German acquaintances for some insight. We were informed that since for years white cars (and now silver) were usually corporate fleet vehicles for employee use, everyone has purchased black, "a style" we were told.

Maybe also the black is warmer inside in a cold climate? Perhaps.

Peanut Butter in France - Found - Mystery solved?

For you who have followed us, you know that I am a health food junkie for many years, obsessed with organic foods and have a long-standing hobby of visiting health food stores whenever and wherever I travel.

So, it has been fascinating to me an inability to find peanut butter here in France, including in my favorite local health food stores in St. Remy and Cavaillon. When home in the US, we can walk into any grocery store and find all different kinds from Skippy to organic no salt crunchy peanut butter (my personal favorite). This is an American childhood staple (obviously not for those afflicted with an allergy to it).

So, although we have not solved the mystery of why (we're still working on that one), we were able to find a jar of peanut butter in a health food store in Apt, thanks to D.'s fearless and relentless efforts. Not cheap, 4 euro a jar, but there you go, we have it. A miracle.

Donkey carts - another French mystery.

For years now we have noticed an odd phenomenon, we call them donkey carts, cars of all shapes and sizes, expensive and cheap, towing behind them these little metal or wood carts. Some are open at the top and some are closed and locked. Some look like they should not be on the street as they are so decrepit, yet are being pulled by a Mercedes on the autoroute going 90 mph. Yesterday, we even saw a double, two metal ones clipped together to make one long one.

A friend of D.'s came up with the term donkey carts, as these look like something that a donkey should be pulling, not a car.

These are small carts, not substantial, and often we don't know why a car would even be pulling this. It cannot hold much luggage. The other day we were on the autoroute and noticed a large minivan pulling a tiny donkey cart, and one has to ask why. It is another French mystery that may never be answered.

Don't supersize me in France

When we were in Apt yesterday having coffee, it really struck us how we were sipping coffee from small demitasse cups as if coffee was a precious gem, rather than the large cups and mugs of coffee we get in the US, the bigger the better, grande and vente, supersize soda, buffets of all you can eat food.

In France, and in other European countries, the houses are so old and small, the streets so narrow, the villages so compact as are the cars Perhaps that is why the perception of size remains so different that the US where bigger is better, and a new McMansion rules the day.

Portion control here is critical, and I watch how people really eat their meals, just sitting with bread until their meal comes, not filling up on it as an appetizer, just a different relationship with their universe, ideas and concepts to model.

Market Day in Apt with stops in Lacoste and Menerbes

We had not yet been to Apt market day, a Saturday, so yesterday we got up early and drove the 30 minutes, arriving a little later than we planned, and the market was bustling and enormous, winding through the streets and squares of the city. We were fortunate because it was not a hot day and we could see more than usual. The prices for clothes were as high as everywhere else, but for other items, better, such as the folding cloth provence baskets. Other markets have them for about 10 euro, here I found several vendors in the 5 euro range.

As always, I was able to find the white truffles for a very low price of 7 euro for two nice sized truffles. Today was a truffle omelette day, thanks to Apt.

The market smelled like heaven with the spices, flowers, and fresh food. Our favorite cheese vendor was there and happy to see us traveling from St. Remy and Eygelieres. We saw our scarf lady, Kim's booth, but she was not there (the same one from St. Remy and Isle Sur la Sorgue).

We found a lovely little coffee shop where the aroma of freshly ground coffee was wafting out the door, and a table for two was available outside. They even had decaf (de-caffeine or sans caffeine). Although I have not had a Starbucks in four weeks now, I was doing well with not craving it until I got the coffee smell and taste again, now Starbucks is calling my name and I am dreaming of frappuccinos and cappuccinos.

On our return, we had seen the sign to Lacoste, and took a detour into heaven.

The village is set high on a hill with the chateau that previously belonged to the Marquis de Sade, and which was in ruins until it was purchased and restored by Pierre Cardin. The village now has an arts festival there each summer including opera and ballet. The village also has a program related to the Savannah College of Art and Design and we observed many American students walking the town, thinking how fortunate they were at such a young age to experience Provence.

We walked the streets which are so old an so narrow, even a small European car would find it difficult to transit, so many streets are blocked to auto traffic. In a small square we found the Cafe de Sade and had lunch overlooking the spectacular sweeping views of the Luberon valley.

As we left and continued down the mountain, we also drove through Menerbes, the setting for the Peter Mayle books about Provence. A lovely small village that may be worth a return walk. Next year, as our time now is winding down.

Sobriety checkpoint in Provence - a important first

D. has been traveling in France for nearly 50 years, but this evening he experienced a first. On our way home on local roads from Le Bistrot du Paradou, as we approached the left turn in the road from Maussane les Alpilles toward Les Baux, we noticed the car before us stopping and three Gendarmes standing by the side of the road with reflective vests, approaching that car. We then saw them approaching us, pointing for D. to pull forward, and with a gadget in their hands the first one walked to the driver's side. We knew immediately we were in for an interesting and novel experience - a French breathalyzer test in the roadway.

D. got confused about the directions and whether to exhale or inhale, and the Gendarmes were laughing, and trying to help him, the two others came over when it became clear that we were Americans. D. was thankful that although he had two glasses of wine with dinner (as always I do not drink), we had sat for about an hour after his last drink, through cheese and dessert and paying the bill.

Eventually, after a few attempts, I don't believe they got an accurate read, they let us go. It was certainly a life lesson that even in France they are paying attention to drunk driving.

You may want to take a look at this excellent explanation of French drunk driving laws from French Entree:

http://www.frenchentree.com/france-holiday/displayarticle.asp?id=19756

They are not messing around and you want to take this seriously rather than ruin your vacation.

Perfection - Le Bistrot Du Paradou

We have given up on St. Remy restaurants this week, after being burned on one dinner last week at a usually good spot, but the restaurants in town have definitely changed since Bastille Day, and the advent of high season. The crowd has changed to more tourists, as more locals and French who have vacation homes here, now go to more remote spots, or eat at home.

We have had many meals here in Provence this summer, but this evening's was quite exceptional, and not expensive at 49 euro prix fixe for soup to nuts, in this case, a soup au pistou full of garlic and basil, roast chicken with potatoes gratin, zuchini and tomato farci, wine, coffee, an enormous platter of cheese from which you can select what you would like (yes with fig confiture), and a lovely dessert. Too much food in fact, even for both of us, as we were quite hungry when we arrived at 8:30 for dinner.

The setting is unusual, on the main road from Maussane les Alpilles to Fontvielle, with a large seating area outside, but it is used only for a welcome aperitif, which was quite pleasant, especially tonight with a breeze. Then, when you are ready you are seated inside in the very warm and comfortable interior, which a large bar running the length of the dinning room, an open kitchen off to one side with a special chef's table next to it. The kitchen was open so I could observe all the meals being plated as the tables and waiters were ready.


Everything was well-prepared, very classic Provencal country-style food. The crowd, although included some French, was more American and British this evening. The walls in the restaurant were covered in celebrity photos, possibly of those who have eaten there. And, this evening, I did notice one older French gentlemen whose portrait was on the wall, in a younger era.

We will return one more time during the week, as this was a Saturday night, to see if there is a different crowd, and how the menu changes. A memorable meal which continued into an interesting experience on the way home - look at the next post for more.

A starry night in Provence - La Table in Fontvielle

The weather has been strange here this summer, unusually cool and rainy, but seems to be finally clearing. Tonight, the stars are shinning, the constellations easily seen since there are so few ground lights here. One forgets sometimes what the sky can look like at night, sparkling and vast. A starry night, filled with

wonder if this is the same sky as Van Gogh saw in his painting, while he lived in Arles and here in St. Remy.

A beautiful evening for a dinner outside in a back garden in Fontveielle at a little spot called La Table de Meurnier, very quirky, friendly, and interesting, each waiter with character and personality, country-style regional food. Inexpensive and more than enough to eat for a full menu. The desserts were especially satisfying, particularly the Pavlov which was involved a big dish of various sorbets, chantilly cream, berries, and meringue. Usually it has rum in it, but the waiter left it out for us. A single serving was enough for about four people.

We will return next summer on another starry night.

Beautiful interview and discussion (on CNN) about America and France

With eminent historian David McCullough about his new book. I have it downloaded and ready to go, it will be next book I'll be reading.

http://globalpublicsquare.blogs.cnn.com/2011/07/28/david-mccullough-on-why-americans-were-once-fascinated-by-france/?hpt=hp_bn2

Fete du Chien - La Verdiere

As mentioned in an earlier post, we attended the dog show on July 24 in La Verdiere, a town high on a hill in the middle of nowhere. It was a windy day but beautiful, lots of people and lots of dogs. mostly hunting dogs. No tourists, no English spoken. The show was well-organized although difficult to park on narrow tiny roads, we all managed. Avril was in her element smelling and listening to other dogs, in their pens in the shade.

Many hounds, only one PBGV who was a visitor. Spaniels, and pointers, but not hearding dogs. A few terriers and smaller dogs as they always are easy to sell. Fortunately, in reading the flier I noticed that even dogs visiting as well as showing had to have a tattoo and proof of vaccination, which was checked before we could pay and get our hands stamped. The dogs were all on display, clearly a goal from the breeders was to sell puppies and we did observe a few being sold. The breeders were not expensive and included vaccinations, papers, and tattoo.

We were interested to see many breeds not in the US, including a Griffon Blu, and a Basset Britagne. The blu was a larger griffon, scruffy with blue/grey mixed rough-coated fur and scruffy face. The britagne was like Avril but all brown. We could definitely go for that one. But D. was obsessed with the Grand basset griffon's although way too much dog for me, they were adorable. He wanted to take one home immediately, all I visualize was the dog running around our house and destroying it. Too much energy, but happy.

There was no beauty contest like in the US or at least I couldn't find it. There was a bird-calling contest, and other hunting-related activities and vendors. The agility and other working dog activities were in the afternoon, but we needed to head out to Venelles, so maybe next year, as this was the 42d annual show in this location and by this club.

Solar Farm Verdon

During our drive to the Var heading to the fete du chien - the dog show - as always we were looking for solar installations in the countryside. Some are residential, some commercial. The most surprising was a large (about 11 megawatt) solar farm feeding the electrical substation next door. It was in the middle of nowhere, in an unused field next to the road. Fantastic.

Buying property in France

Here is a very useful website loaded with information and suggestions, very organized, thorough and informative:

http://www.frenchentree.com/property/

Nonsensical T-shirts

Something we have noticed for several years now as we wander is people wearing t-shirts that purport to be American, written in English or try to be, but mean nothing and have no relationship to anything American or British.

For example, people wearing t-shirts that say Staten Island. Now, we love New York, including Staten Island, we love a ride on the Staten Island ferry and a good drive through it, but for someone in France to be wearing this, it has no meaning other than its relationship to Manhattan.

Another one is Bayonne. While we know there is a Bayonne in France, there is also a Bayonne, New Jersey. My husband is from right next door in Jersey City, and we eat dinner in Bayonne on occasion and enjoy it, but it is not a garden spot in the Garden State, despite its New York views on the Hudson. So, again, it makes no sense for someone to wear this shirt here. Today's find in the Senas market, was a shirt that said Marshall Academy. Who knows what that is supposed to be. We often see shirts for schools that don't exist, but it sounds good, sounds American so let's slap it on a t-shirt and sell it. It's all good.

Wild Boar deaths from Algae in France?

May have some impact on humans too:

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-14324094

SENAS market day

D. wanted to take a ride to Senas to get wine (only rose'), and we noticed as we pulled into town that it was their market day - a Thursday

.

During his last trip to the winery, D. was informed by a gentlemen who buys several cases every few months, that the wine from the pull was too acidic, "to clean the pool" he said, and recommended one which had won numerous awards. More expensive, of course, but hopefully better, and in a bottle, not filling a plastic bottle from the pull for 2 euro.

After completing his wine errand, we walked the market and found no tourists, all locals, no English spoken which is unusual here in July. It was much less expensive than St. Remy and more for locals, clothes, food, few classic Provencal items which are aimed at the tourists.

It was full but not overly crowded, a wide lane in the middle which made it comfortable to walk, rather than maneuvering through the narrow streets in many towns. Very pleasant small market.

Once you've had Cavaillon melon . . .

In thinking of that old saying, once they've seen Paris, you can't keep them down on the farm. So to it is with food. Once I began eating Cavaillon melon, canteloupe became a tasteless mealy mess to me. It was finished.

Today we were eating as a dessert, yesterday's goat cheese and fig with a little bread, it remained a sensory delight, taste texture, sweetness and creamy all mixed together. We agreed that we probably will not be eating goat cheese in the US any time soon, as we just cannot duplicate what we have here.

It is a shame that we in the US do not put much pride in our food, it is about quantity not quality. We seem to process, pasteurize, fertilize, and use pesticide until the food has no taste and is unrecognizable. It is as if that old commercial about margarine is so true, you can't mess with mother nature.

I am reminded of the chef featured on the POV show on PBS discussed in an earlier post. The chef is French but living in Chicago and teaching as his school there how to make pastry. He discussed the French feeling around food, it is their belief that it is an important part of life to experience the best food, even a little bit for the pleasure experienced in the brain. It makes life worth living.

That belief carries through in so much that happens in France. There are gold medals given annually for certain products and it is with great pride that a farmer, or a vineyard obtains this designation, through the Ministry of Agriculture awards given in Paris every year. Here is the magnificent website:

http://www.cga-paris.com/

Although in French, it is a fascinating read to go through the categories of animals and food products that are judged here each February. This is a must for us to attend in the future and experience.

So, once you've had the melon or cheese or whatever it is that captures the pleasure centers in your brain, you are finished, complete. It is like love, when you are truly, deeply in love with a person and can look at no one else. That is the French experience.

Living in France - Visa necessary

Here is the link to the French consular office in the US and has a very clear explanation of the visa requirements and process for long-term travel (beyond 90 days) and residency in France.

http://www.consulfrance-washington.org/spip.php?rubrique98

C'est mon reve.

Website Launch - Travel with us next summer

In honor of our four year anniversary of this blog we are launching our new website www.jadorefrance.net which, as we build it, will include products we highlight here and a way to apply to travel with us for exclusive, personalized trips in France.

So contact us at the website, and bon voyage.

Like a Postcard from Provence

It is hard to imagine sometimes, driving through the Provence countryside, that we are actually here, living it and experiencing everything we do. Sometimes it feels like a dream and like living in a postcard, particularly as we drive through the rolling fields on our way into town, with the blue sky above, and the Alpilles in the distance, it is a dream that not even a painting or photograph can truly capture.

This time in the summer, we see the fields mowed, and rolls of hay waiting to be removed, like an impressionist painting. This afternoon we saw cattle being herded and moved by three men on white horses, the equivalent of French cowboys.

We are incredibly fortunate to be here and share it with you.

Filling Prescriptions in France

Since we are here for more than 4 weeks this summer, we tried to travel with all prescriptions filled. Unfortunately two ran short and we ventured into several pharmacies to shop and experience what it was like to fill a prescription here.

As an overall statement, it was surprisingly easy and inexpensive. D. visited the local pharmacy here and also one in Aix to compare costs and meet the other pharmacists. He was very impressed with their professionalism and their knowledge. In the local pharmacies, some are also qualified to dispense for animals as well as people, which makes sense here in the farming area where we see goats, cattle and horses, as well as dogs and cats.

One prescription was for me, for a high-dosage of vitamin D3. At home for four pills, which I take one per week, a generic, I pay about $10 or 2.50 a pill (with insurance). Here, the pharmacist gave us an ampule, a liquid, which you add to water and drink and need to take only once in 90 days. It costs 1.40 euro or about $2.00 (without local insurance). Obviously the French government regulates this heavily including pricing. An area where more government can be a good thing.

I'll be downing it tomorrow and laughing.

Venelles and a picnic

We were recently invited for lunch at a friend's house in Venelles, a tiny town outside of Aix. We were traveling not from our house but from southwest of there from a dog show (I will write about that separately). According to my research, Venelles is so small it has only 8100 residents.

This spot was so remote that not even Emily could find it, but with the directions we had received and a few missed turns we were able to locate this lovely home in the woods. Avril had a wonderful time running the fenced property with their dog and slept very well that night.

It is always interesting to experience someone else's home in a different country. We had, a few days earlier been invited for drinks at someone's apartment near the beach in Juan Les Pins. In a building from 1972, the owners had just renovated the kitchen, which was beautiful and modern. By French apartment standards, it had a lot of room, a lengthy terrace, and minisplits for cooling. The sad part was even to go out for dinner, they had to close the security shutters, locking the place up tight.

In the Venelles woods, the large property was gated with a lovely swimming pool and a kitchen opening to the patio. We enjoyed very lovely company, largely university professors in various fields, grilled chicken and steaks, salad and bread, amazing goat cheese with a fresh figue confiture which our host accurately described as "a revelation." It certainly inspired me to try to repeat it at Le Cave au Fromages. The house was lovely and spacious, with various outside buildings too. A very nice way to live in the French countryside.

The company was lovely and interesting. As I continue to struggle with French, but I do notice now that I am able to understand much more, although speaking and having a real conversation is still a test for me. But I will persist in learning and return to classes in the fall.

We locked in the location so next time, Emily can find our way back to Venelles. And we arrived home tired but happy that we had been invited to participate in such a lovely afternoon.

Le Cave au Fromages - St. Remy

In keeping with our search for St. Andre, I ventured into the nicest cheese shop in St. Remy. We always look in the window at the beautiful display but don't cross the threshold.

This afternoon when the weather cleared, we walked the town and stopped in a few places including this one which was well worth the visit.

Upon entering I asked whether they had St. Andre but was told no. So I began to look through the beautiful cheeses displayed in the case, at the fresh pastas, and other items throughout the store. It was loaded with interesting food, which would probably take me a whole year to try.

So, although pricey, I indulged in a local St. Remy chevre with herbes de provence and poivre (peppercorns) on top. I also noticed a beautiful cup of figues confiture with a small spoon attached.

It made a perfect dessert with fresh bread, creamy, but not heavy, not like the cream-cheese like chevre we get at home. The herbes were not overpowering, but pleasant. We had just experienced this combination at a friend's house in Venelles, which I will write about separately. This was an excellent way to end the meal along with fresh local peaches. Can't ask for better, simple and perfect.

Explanation of French homes

Very good concise explanation of French houses/homes. We knew the terms Mas and Bastide and what they meant, but not clear on the others until we saw this one which was quite helpful when we are looking at real estate for rent or buy:

http://www.frenchpropertylinks.com/essential/property-in-france.html

we can continue to dream of buying and living here.

kid-free travel article

Interesting concept but makes it tough for those whose children are properly behaved and want to expose them to the world:

http://shine.yahoo.com/channel/parenting/the-no-kids-allowed-movement-is-spreading-2516110/

Gilles- Eygalieres

A few weeks ago when at the market in Eygalieres, we noticed a new little restaurant in this town, with rustic outside setting, simple and not expensive menu for pizza, pasta and salad. Next to Cafe du la Place. Initially we thought it was part of the Cafe, but upon inquiry learned it is not. The chef is Italian so the food is a little different than the pizza we usually get locally, better crust most importantly.

We have now eaten there twice. The food is very good, all fresh ingredients and well-spiced. The first visit the service was very good, the second time not so good, but the chef and staff was very apologetic, recognizing the problem. We will probably give it one more try before we leave.

The seating includes an upstairs terrace and downstairs garden, not cramped, dog-friendly, and very high-end interesting clientele.

Etik - St. Remy

This little spot on the main road in St. Remy did open a few weeks ago, where Cafe Soleil used to be. It is bright and clean with pleasant new owner. He is trying for a healthy fast-food place with fresh sandwiches, salads and smoothies. It is self-service and you can sit outside and watch the world go by. Prices are dependent on whether you are eating in or out.

Food is fresh and tasty, but some odd combinations. They do have Arizona ice tea which is an unusual find here in France.

A worthwhile inexpensive fast lunch in St. Remy on a market day.

France and diversity

Article about diversity and France where they do not collect statistical information about minorities be it ethnicity, national origin, religion etc. :

http://www.france24.com/en/20110724-france-minority-leaders-advocate-statistics-ethnic-diversity-discrimination-aneld

Pat's Hats - Cavaillon

Several years ago we discovered a little shop in Cavaillon called Pat's Boutique. We always refer to it as Pat's Hats because although the owner has beautiful clothes, over the years I have bought some amazing hats there. I was never a hat person. Either you are or you are not a hat person. It was not something I saw myself in until I found Pats. The hats were glamourous, interesting, colorful, and not expensive if on sale. She had designs I knew I would never find in NYC, and certainly not at her prices.

We had not been in the store for several years, but in honor of the new Duchess Catherine, it seemed worthwhile to venture in and see if there were fascinators too. In our dialogue, we learned that there is no word in French for a fascinator, it is still called a hat - a chapeau feminin (a women's hat as French is usually specific about these things).

Pat was having a 50% off sale, and we had driven by for a few days and watched the pile in the window declining and we didn't want to let it go further. So we ventured in and began to pick through the pile and try on. Some were plain and some were amazing. I settled on two, which I will definitely have to find an occasion for, especially the black one.

Can't say I'll look anything like Kate, but I can definitely have more style than Camilla.

Vente Depot - Resale shops in St. Remy

As promised I did get to two so far.

Trop Choc at 41 Blvd. Mirabeau (the main street in town) is a small but nice shop for women's clothing and accessories, good labels, appears to be recent timely styles and merchandise, prices very reasonable, well-organized by color and size. Very pleasant experience. I noticed another shop with the same name also in Cavaillon.

Easy Cash - although when I searched it came up as St. Remy but it is really in Plan D'orgon and is quite close to Cavaillon. 66 Route de Lyon near the traffic circle and my favorite farmer's produce stand. Good spot for fill-in pieces of furniture.

We have driven by this spot for years but never ventured in until the other day. A lot of furniture, not always in the best condition but with a little work can be revived. Prices were very good and the owner does have a van so I expect a delivery price can be negotiated. Beautiful side-boards and armoires, and many used books. A real find if we owned a house here.

We will try to get to the other two I found listed before we finish up the trip.

Velorail France

If you are looking for something interesting to do in various areas of France, this is what the French have done with unused rail lines, including here in Provence. As we drive around we see various town areas called "gare" which means station. This spots used to have train stations which have since been removed or are being used for different purposes. Much unused track still remains so, you can go for 90 minutes or so on a pedal car, up to 4 adults or two adults and up to three children.

Here is the website:

http://www.veloraildefrance.com/

Velorail France

If you are looking for something interesting to do in various areas of France, this is what the French have done with unused rail lines, including here in Provence. As we drive around we see various town areas called "gare" which means station. This spots used to have train stations which have since been removed or are being used for different purposes. Much unused track still remains so, you can go for 90 minutes or so on a pedal car, up to 4 adults or two adults and up to three children.

Here is the website:

http://www.veloraildefrance.com/

Real estate dreaming and Energy Efficiency Ratings in France

One of my many hobbies when we travel is to get real estate publications and look at houses, apartments, land etc. for pricing and dreaming. From Maine to New Mexico, Manhattan and Provence, to Cote d'azur and Paris, I look at them all. To think per chance to dream. real estate dreaming . . .

This year as we walked the streets of various towns and grabbing the listing circulars, I quickly noticed something different - energy ratings on the properties, captioned in each listing in a color-coded chart. This I wanted to understand since D. and I are all about efficiency and renewable energy.

So, in doing research I quickly happened upon the attached a very well written piece explaining the new law here, which we clearly need in the US. We should absolutely know the efficiency of the home we are purchasing and the carbon footprint we are leaving, just for living in it. The rating is based upon 3 years worth of usage. Very smart to average as we can have hot and cold years as we are seeing this year in particular on both continents.

http://www.americansinfrance.net/movingplanner/energy-efficiency-inspection.cfm

Jewish Music Fete in Carpentras

When we visited Carpentras a few days ago, we noticed the sign outside the synagogue for this music festival taking place this week, the 10th annual. We contacted the local tourism office and they were very helpful with information (in English) and we were able to purchase tickets and attend on Sunday evening for the first concert. There are two each day, with a broad variety of music, not just Klezmer music. Sunday's performance was a female singer, Claire Zalamansky, accompanied by two excellent musicians. All vocals were in Ladino. Although her voice could have been better she was quite enthusiastic and animated, and the crowd enjoyed the performance.

The setting in the synagogue could not have been better, quite beautiful with baroque details.

The pictures attached give you some sense of the setting. Definitely worth seeing as this building has been used as a synagogue since 1367, and has been renovated several times.

Fete de Paella

Continuing to get caught up here with a few things I wanted to post, so watch over the next few days for some updated photos and information.

The weather here has been odd, just as it is overly hot at home, here it is overly cool and much more rain than usual. It will rain again tonight. The cicadas are vibrating but not as loudly, the hum in the air is just not the same and we miss it.

As always, our third straight year, we attended the Fete de Paella in Eygalieres, the price remained the same for yet another year and this is still the best deal around. 18 euro includes wine, water, melon (with or without port) cheese, a big plate of paella, ice cream and a fun orchestra/band with classic French dancing girls that all the men are watching.

Despite it being a very windy evening, the square was full and people talking and eating, enjoying a special night that we have never found duplicated in any of the villages we visit.

Although we left at 11 p.m. the party was still going and friends told us that around 1 a.m. in the wind, part of the stage collapsed. Everyone helped the performers and rebuilt the stage quickly. No one was injured and the party continued well into the morning.

A bon fete.

Velopop - Avignon

No, this is not some kind of lollipop or popsicle. This is the Avignon version of the bicycle rental system used in Paris, London and now New York. We saw stations for renting the bikes all over the city. It is certainly easier to bike than to drive, given how narrow the streets are, and that you have so many pedestrians.

Here is a very good article describing these services all over Europe, including other cities in France like Bordeaux:

http://blog.hostelbookers.com/top-cities/bike-trip-europe/

Also, here is link to Avignon tourist office website which includes Velopop description and explanation:

http://www.avignon-tourisme.com/menu/practical-tips/services/transport-89-2.html

Enjoy your ride through this truly ancient historic city.

Groupon-France

Another new thing in France this summer - Groupon has arrived in France and has many interesting offers. They go quickly so you need to move fast. People here are always about saving money and living small, not living large like in the US. So this is a great concept for the EU countries.

We signed on for here, as well as home, but notice that the New Jersey offers are better than the NYC ones. One would think NYC would have too many great offers to contemplate, so clearly NYC vendors need to get on it.

In France we have seen hotels, restaurants, spas, sports, furniture, and the romba vacuum was big for a few days, lots sold. Interesting ads too.

Wolves in France - who knew?

Article about wolves in France killing sheep in the Alps:

http://www.france24.com/en/20110725-wolf-hunting-permit-issued-after-sheep-massacre-france-wildlife

St. Remy local website

Here is the link

http://www.saintremy-de-provence.com/en

very helpful including list of events and list of local provencal markets.

Biocoop outlets in France

Here is the main website for the Biocoop cooperative stores in France. This provides a centralized listing, by department location throughout France. Biocoop now has more than 320 stores nationwide, very impressive.

this website looks to be a great resource for those who want to buy organic and support local vendors

while in France:

http://www.biocoop.fr/accueil.php

Credit Card Roulette

As I posted earlier in the trip, we have had, for the first time, numerous problems using US credit cards in Europe this summer due to increased security requirements.

The place this shows up the most is at the paege - the toll booth on the autoroute. Each time we pull in, it is as if we have pulled into a casino, and are rolling the dice, playing roulette, never knowing where the ball will fall to identify the correct booth and credit card.

Trying to pick the correct booth is a mystery unto itself, as most are automated and have an ez-pass system called telepaege. Some accept credit cards and cash, but we never know until we pull in whether it will accept cash.

Then D. begins pulling out credit cards to determine which one will be accepted. Sometimes, it will accept a credit card, but never a debit. Every other year we could not use American Express in the tolls, but this year, miraculously, Amex seems to be the way to go. What makes the least sense is that the toll booth will accept a certain card when we head south. Then on the return trip heading north, the same location will decline the same card.

So, each time we hit the toll we are playing credit card roulette, unpredictable and impossible. And the adventures continue.

France and Separation of Church and State

Interesting article about separation of church and state in France:

http://www.france24.com/en/20110721-french-secularism-justice-council-state-debate-islam-catholic-church-mosques

Dog Supplies - the great Bon-ton bag search

Being a good dog owner, I strongly believe in picking up after my dog, and in pooper-scooper laws in general. Not that I enjoy doing it - who does - but the streets would be impassible if we didn't do it.

So, a few days ago I realized that we did not have enough bags with us to survive to the trip's end. This afternoon, we ventured into a large store I noticed in the Gare area of St. Remy to find bags for my Bon-ton bag holder. Although it was a large pet and plant store, with many nice items, baggies was not one on the shelf. The manager could not tell us when she would be receiving more.

Who would think this would be such a difficult item to find? In the US, one just walks into Petsmart or Petco and grabs packages of rolls without thinking twice.

We then tried Canimouse, a cute little store in St. Andiol including a self-washing station for dogs and cats as well as animal supplies, but still came up empty.

Next stop was a small store in Plan D'Orgon which again had nothing.

So onward and upward to Cavaillon, into Brico Marche' and voila, not just rolls of bags, but Bon-ton bags, a triple pack which is more than enough to keep the streets clean from Avril for a few more days.

Merci!!

French Mystery - Knives

I fancy myself a cook, and enjoy a good knife for cooking. But I have been traveling through the various French markets for years and have noticed but not understood the interest in knives, pocket knives, steak knives, cooking knives. The knife stalls always seems to attract numerous buyers, who really consider their purchases, and from knowledgeable vendors.

Trying to research this a little is not simple, but I have found one website that gives some explanation, for a manufacturer, Laguiole, for very high quality knives that we noticed in use at Le Planet, where we had yet another very good meal this evening. It is also interesting to note that these knives are still manufactured in France.

So, for you knife fanciers out there:

http://www.laguiole-france.com/index.php?module=Accueil

Expensive, but can cut through a thick meat with ease, and beautifully manufactured. Very substantial weight in your hand.

This must be in keeping with everything about French food, only the best, and what lasts forever. Not the disposable society of the new world.

Another French mystery - no charcoal briquettes?

This is one we have pondered for several years now. We have barbecues with friends, mostly from Germany, and they too are mystified that the briquettes cannot be found here. What we find is a wood charcoal that burns too hot and too fast.

At one point, D. contemplated shipping briquettes from the US until I pointed out that it would probably not pass muster for shipping regulations.

Trolling the internet for answers has turned up little, only the history of charcoal and the realization that there is little coal in charcoal. It appears that the demand for this item seems more prevalent in Northern France than Southern, and that the demand is growing, but still not available here in Provence.

The mystery continues because I still have not found the answer to why? But as relentless research is my stock and trade, we will plod on until we find the answer.