Fiat 500 epidemic

Always when we land a primary difference is immediate - cars. Different models, smaller sizes and shapes, brands we don't know about here in the US, models from familiar brands we don't see here, and trends. This year it was the Fiat 500 - it seemed like everywhere we went Fiats were everywhere and spreading, like an epidemic a virus of cars, cute cars in different colors geared toward young people, zipping through little town roads, easy to park. Yes, I am pining after one, maybe a gucci model or the light green with a light interior, roll back top, and a stick, get me on the road in Europe in one of those. Unfortunately, I share my husband's car obsession and he has fed mine over the years, talking about cars, looking at cars, researching cars, driving cars, fixing cars, not enough time or money for all the cars we would like to own and drive!

Summer trends 2013- nonstop service, cranberries and caesar salad

Each year we find trends when we travel, things evolving and changing. This year, in addition to cranberries everywhere including cranberry juice and dried cranberries (very exciting as cranberry juice in the summer is always refreshing) and even attempts to adapt caesar salad into some type of chicken caesar salad, not a real one but a nice adaptation of a salad and enjoyable. The best one was at Mirabeau in St. Remy which was enormous with a poached egg and very fresh ingredients, topped off with Ben and Jerry's for dessert. But the most interesting evolution is from all restaurants closing for several hours in the afternoon, changing into "service nonstop" from early to late, this was a new trend and a positive one for travelers looking for a meal at off-hours.

A clothes boycot

It was rather like the commercial where someone has gotten such high speed internet service that they have surged the entire internet. In this case it was that I just didn't need anymore clothes. I got to France, unpacked, look in the closet and realized I had too much and didn't need anything more. I made a commitment, and I stuck to it, to not buy any clothes. It was freeing in a way. to walk through the markets and admire what was there but not feel any pressure to buy. As always I bought a few scarves at the 5 euro level to spruce up for the fall, but no clothes, no shoes, and it was a relief.

A shorts invasion

For years, I have eschewed wearing shorts after realizing that French women don't wear them, and most importantly that any woman at a certain age doesn't look good in them. Sometimes I have seen shorts on young women in France, or even older women, but always foreigners, not French. Unfortunately, this year was different, an invasion from afar, from America and now seeing shorts everywhere even on French girls and women (not always a good look just as on American women) and seeing linen shorts for sale in the markets although not everywhere, certainly in several of the higher-end markets. Oh well. c'est la vie.

Gliders in Provence

When I was young, the county airport included gliders (as well as landing and rides for the Goodyear blimp). At a swim club about a mile away where we would spend time when we were not on cape cod, I loved watching the gliders dragged into the air, dropped, and then floating and sailing on the wind. It was always peaceful without the noise of engines, and quite spectacular. In a drive recently D. and I had passed the signage for a local airport Romanin, as well as a winery, so we decided to explore. The winery was not interesting but we were pleasantly surprised to find the airport is merely one dirt runway to support gliders! Now when outside at the pool, or driving to St. Remy we look for the gliders floating on the Provence air currents, near the Alpilles. It must be amazing in the air, but I am just not that adventurous to go up. I can enjoy from the ground and marvel: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0e20fwsVu0

French nails in France

For the first time in all these years I have begun to see "French manicure" in France on several women, via a shop in Avignon (yes, we asked) trying to do American-style nails. We will track this down.

Yes there is a laundromat in St. Remy

Updating a post from several years ago when we were searching for a laundromat in St. Remy and could not find one, we were able this year to locate a laverie just off Avenue Victor Hugo (26), in a courtyard along with the new clothing and household re-sale shop (reasonable prices and interesting pieces) as well as the dog beauty parlor.

Knitting in France

Since being ill, and having taken up knitting to add crocheting and needlepoint, I am more observant of shops wherever I am now, in US or France. In walking St. Remy one day I wandered into a charming small shop on Rue Carnot, Pique et Paille, which had a small selection of yarn as well as needlepoint floss. But in trying to find a more substantial shop, since I have learned that knitting is very popular in France, I found a website and ultimately a store in Aix, Phildar (www.phildar.com) which had a wonderful selection of yarns, and reasonably priced. The colors were striking as soon as I walked in the store, wools, cottons, with ombre patterns, and making me wish I could buy everything and go crazy making gifts for family and friends and most importantly wishing I was no longer a beginner so I could make sweaters and more complicated patterns but it may take me some time to get there. At least I will know where to find yarn, even in France.

Outdoor movies in Aix

On a lovely summer evening in Aix if you are looking for something to do, a tradition is to see movies outdoors in one of the beautiful parks of Aix. the festival begins in early July and continues through August, Les instants D'Ete, Projections Nocturnes. As with events of this type in America, people bring chairs and blankets and food and enjoy the air, the company and the films, some American and others French. http://en.aixenprovencetourism.com/aix-manifestations-tipi.htm

French bread eating declining - shocking!

An interesting article from NY Times about the French eating less bread, declining from one baguette per day for a man to one-half? In 1970 it would a whole baguette! Thus, the French have begun a campaign to promote bread eating as healthy and low sugar and fat. Good to avoid weight gain? In America we would say definitely no, avoid carbs, but France the bread lobby has a different view. http://www.nytimes.com/2013/07/31/world/europe/a-french-dining-staple-is-losing-its-place-at-the-table.html?_r=0

Emily almost derailed by a hyphen

When using a GPS, just like any computer, it is garbage in/garbage out. Here in France, we know words and names tend to be very specific, and the town names are very similar and one must be careful with spelling, which as we now know, includes hyphens. The other day we tried to drive to visit a new town which had seen signs for but never ventured to, Chateaurenard. We tried to enter the name into our trusty GPS, whose voice is named Emily and who rarely misses a beat in the USA or in Europe. Thus, we were perplexed when we had trouble entering the town into the system. It took us several tries to determine the problem. We were attempting to visit Chateaurenard near us, in the 13th department, while Emily was trying to send us to one 3 hours away. Ultimately, after reviewing the input, we realized that a hyphen was in our way - there was another village named Chateau-renard! So, beware the hyphen here in France, you can find yourself hours from your intended destination.

A butcher with specificity

Driving through French villages we see shops that are clearly butcher shops (boucherie) but also identify in other ways charcuterie, traiteur (clearly not referring to a traitor), and other related words. The French language does tend to be rather specific with certain nuances, like boulangerie as a bakery for bread, while a patisserie is for sweets. As always, we delve into it with some internet research to determine that a charcuterie specifies that it is a butcher for pork products (important here with so many who will only purchase halel meats) and that traiteur seems to relate to catering, but specifically of pork products. Who knew?

Cultural Cross-pollination

As we travel and shop, I am always struck by how we cross-pollinate our lives, like bees who fly around flower to flower sharing pollen from those plants and continuing to move plant DNA through the plant world. We are rather like bees cross-pollinating cultures and bringing America to France as we travel with certain necessities we have been unable to find in France, and bringing flavors, scents and feelings of France home to America. If it were not for various rules and regulations, we would certainly return home with cheeses and other foods we cannot get at the same level as we find in France, and likewise certain items we would bring from home but for the differences in voltage (certain kitchen tools) and other plants. Thank goodness for dual voltage electronics!

Even buses can have donkey carts

As I've blogged in the past, everywhere in France we see cars, some nice some not so nice, often with small metal or wood carts attached. we call them donkey carts as they look like something that a donkey should be pulling behind it rather than a car. Some are rather small and seem to be used for a suitcase or two, while others are larger and more substantial and appear to be carrying more belongings for moving or a major vacation while the auto passengers do not want to be crushed by their luggage even though the French usually travel pretty light. This trip we noticed that even a bus can have a donkey cart, although a very large one. As we approached the market in St. Remy one day we ended up driving behind a large tour bus from the Czech republic. Although most buses limit luggage and stow it all beneath the bus, this one must have had a different policy as it towed a large donkey cart behind it full of luggage, certainly the length of a large SUV and nearly as tall as the bus, complete with a cover that contained advertisements for a company in the city of origin for the tour bus. So, yes, even the buses buses can have donkey carts.

Total propane

No I don't mean all or complete propane but "Total" the gas and fuel company in France which sells canisters of propane which is used heavily in France for cooking, even in homes and sometimes in outdoor grills. Unlike America where anyone can take a propane tank and switch it out at any number of stores, in France one must have an account, for example with Total, containing personal information, address, name, phone number so a tank's origin can be identified and traced back to a person, an intelligent concept in this day and age of bombs made from common household ingredients. So, unlike the USA, Total is not total, it is rather limited.

Drap plat and Drap house

In contemplating buying sheets in France, it is not simple or easy. Measurements are not standard, and are nothing like the US single, full, queen king that we find in any store that sells sheets. First one must discern whether we are looking at flat or fitted sheets. Apparently a fitted sheet is "drap house" which appears to match the actual measurements of the bed. A flat sheet is "drap plat" which has larger measurements as the length and width are larger than the actual bed measurements. All quite intimidating and confusing, but we figured it out with some assistance from a French women who admitted even she finds it confusing.

Yes we have found maple syrup

In a prior post I've discussed what we can and cannot find in France and what people eat on their waffles in France. We discussed whether it is possible to find maple syrup in France and we are happy to report that yes it can be found, in the BioCoop. It is Canadian rather than Vermont, and not quite the Grade A quality of the US, but quite edible for French toast and Waffles. A waffle iron may be in our future!

Language Skills

Some days when traveling in France the language actually makes some sense to me. It takes some time and some listening and trying to pry the words and phrases from the back of my memory banks. Taking FIAF classes helped but I still hope for the day that I wake up and in a miracle, I am fluent, I can understand and converse easily in this difficult language. We are inundated with advertisements for Rosetta Stone and other programs to help us learn a language easily and organically, and although I no longer have the energy and focus since becoming ill, I am intrigued and always wonder which is the best one? Here is an excellent article that breaks it all down and helps define which one would work the best for each person: http://travel.yahoo.com/ideas/best-ways-to-learn-a-language-205521671.html?page=1

A French energy conservation initiative

Fascinating attempt in France to cut down on light pollution, save money, and cut carbon emissions all at the same time by turning off lights. Although the Eiffel Tower is exempt as are holiday displays, exterior lighting will need to be turned off on non-residential buildings between 1 a.m. and 7 a.m. unless it is being used for security purposes. Likewise, interior lights in those buildings will need to be extinguished at 1 a.m. or one hour after the last person has left the building (but what about Elvis - did he leave the building?). The initiative was adopted in January and goes into effect tonight, with substantial fines imposed for offenders. http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/07/01/paris-illumination-ban-city-of-light-dimming_n_3529378.html

Decorating a broom

France must be the only country where a broom gets decorated as shown in this photo. I cannot imagine doing this in the US or any other country. A broom is merely for function, not beauty, but here in France everything has function and form.

More photos of paradise

A slice of life

At my son's graduation last week, began to consider that I was experiencing a slice of life, but whose life? Which life? Is it the life I prefer or is it someone else's life? In observing those around us, most dressed nicely but so many dressed inappropriately, and acting inappropriately, we discussed that the slice of life we want is in France, to sit in our favorite cafe and watch that world go by. Even if I can't understand everything being said, it just seems more civilized to me, calmer, and more in control. Maybe it seems true because we don't live here and it is more a fantasy than a reality, but at least I'm here enjoying this slice of life which makes the other more tolerable when I return.

Avril needs frequent flier miles

As usual in the summer, Avril has joined us in our journey and it got me to thinking about how Air France and other airlines who wish to encourage us to travel with our pets should award frequent flier miles to them, rather than treating them like luggage. Can they get special privileges? What would they be? A first class dog section with a menu for treats? Or could it be when you hit a certain level you could earn a seat next to your human? Priority boarding? Free trips? This could be an idea whose time has come.

Student travel -

In transiting through JFK on the way over, I was fortunate to see so many student groups setting out to travel the world, most for the first time. It brought me back to my first overseas trip at age 17, to travel Europe and see places I had been reading about for years. I was happy to see these young people and their enthusiasm and sense of adventure, as I know by the time they return they will be irreparably changed by their experiences, no matter what they are, just as young people from all over the world are changed by coming to America. These students are our future in a more international world and economy, and their views and ability to understand other cultures and history are critical to everyone's future. In a few days, we will be sending our son to his travels into other countries he has not experienced yet, and into his future.

News when we travel

In the old days (maybe 10 years ago) my news lifeline would be the International Herald Tribute, along with some CNN international if we were lucky enough to have it in the hotel. These days we have CNN in the house, and laptops with highspeed internet so with le web we can read the news and our regular papers every day should we choose. So many times when we travel there is some big breaking news story just as we leave or while we are away and we get blanket coverage on CNN or sometimes BBC or Skynews - Michael Jackson's death, the Norway killings, the bombings in London, or the summer Governor McGreevey resigned when I was working for the state of New Jersey, or every four years the World Cup. This summer, already we have major news stories from Nelson Mandela's illness, President Obama's trip to African, civil unrest in Brazil and Egypt, and we can anticipate the birth of the royal heir in England. We always enjoy getting a different view of the world while here and watch CNN International at home, but it does not contain all the same programming we see here. We have added a new twist to watching tv here, with some additional technology (since without it we can't watch netflix or other programs) we are watching some favorite programs at night or movies.

In paradise once again

As you readers may know, it was a very difficult year for our family, with me being so ill. Cancer and chemotherapy only increases my appreciation for our arrival yet again in France, for the beauty of Provence and the lifestyle here. It has taken me a few days to get on the time zone and settle in to our house, and enjoy the improvements we have made, especially in the gardens. The pleasure we feel every time we return back from an excursion and pull in to our private heaven is difficult to describe. Pictures help but do not really do it justice. We are looking forward to spending our time here relaxing, hopefully healing and regenerating a bit, eating (healthy) and watching, learning and progressing in our understanding of France, its people and culture. Perfection.

Another restaurant label - this time by the chefs

From the top chefs of France, comes another labeling system where the restaurant must apply and meet the standard of freshly prepared foods and good service (not the easiest to come by in France). We will be looking for this designation as it begins to appear. http://www.france24.com/en/20130410-french-superchefs-launch-new-quality-restaurant-label

No microwave food in these restaurants

As we who love France know, they take such great pride in their culture, particularly their food. So it is with interest that I saw this article about labeling restaurants that prepare their own food rather than used pre-prepared food that gets heated up in a microwave and gets passed off as though it was prepared in the restaurant. To combat this, the French government is going to require labeling of restaurants and food so a consumer will know what they are eating and where it was prepared. http://www.france24.com/en/20130628-france-battles-microwave-food-restaurants-gastronomy-pre-prepared

Rudeness in Paris? Non!

We have never found Paris and Parisians unfriendly or rude, just like traveling in every city, much depends on how we approach the community and its people. We have to adapt to them and not expect them to adapt to us. I recall moving to Hoboken back at the beginning of the 1980s and gentrification, and the dislike of the new folks coming in and expecting the city to change to accommodate them, instead of the other way around. I was happy to adapt and discover local haunts including Carlos Bakery long before cake boss and when it was on Adams street across from my apartment and next to Fiore's Deli when it was still shipping mozzarella to Frank Sinatra every month in Palm Springs. I remember the newbies complaining every summer when the Italian feasts would take over the streets on certain weekends, complaints about noise, dirt, fireworks etc. I never got it why they didn't plan ahead and go away for the weekend, or just adjust and enjoy the lively energy of the streets and the food and music. So getting acclimated in Provence we work hard to enjoy the local community and its customs and traditions. Apparently, however, Paris has gotten a bit of a bad rap for rudeness of the local population, so the city is trying to work on it with a manual. Can't imagine this being given to cabbies in NYC, but it's an interesting idea. Should make fun reading. http://news.yahoo.com/paris-tackles-rudeness-tourists-manual-163555094.html

Spring break French style

The French are apparently trying to mimic a not so good American past-time, drunken, dangerous Spring Break, except it is in June, before final exams. Some companies are trying to promote trips to Spain to party. Oh well, not a positive development: http://worldcrunch.com/culture-society/alcohol-sex-and-a-touch-of-moderation-spring-break-a-la-francaise-/sea-sex-drugs-spring-break-spain/c3s12274/

France's high birth rate

Hard to believe but France has an even higher birthrate than the US and is the highest in the EU at 2.01. This is in part due to very good child care available at an early age and, depending on income, for free. Also there are payments by the government once a family has a second child. In fact, France is expanding its child care system which will also create jobs. Maybe something the US should consider? http://www.france24.com/en/20130611-why-french-women-make-more-babies-fertility-austerity-welfare-reforms-france

French housing crisis

Squatters apparently have rights in Paris that they would never have in the US. Apparently, they have to be visible and engage in activity seen by neighbors, like ordering take-out. A little pizza goes a long way. Now, the owner has difficulty removing them and apparently the French government may want to buy the office building and convert it to housing. With a long-standing and worsening housing crisis in France, these do not sound like good solutions. Looking at the statistics, they have many money homeless in France proportionally than in the US, due to soaring prices, especially in Paris, even through the recession as foreigners park money in French real estate investments, much as they do in NYC. http://news.yahoo.com/special-report-french-homeless-seek-refuge-offices-051131637.html

wine in a can? so de classe'

A few years ago I wrote about wine with a twist-off cap entering the french market, but now "winestar" is trying for wine in a can, to replicate what is already going on in Japan and Germany. Although I do not drink any alcoholic beverages, this one may be a little de classe' for the French. The company is targeting younger drinkers with a price of 2.50 euro per can. Still, it just doesn't seem French to me, and I can't imagine that it doesn't change the taste of the wine. It certainly does if drinking Perrier from a can, as compared to a glass bottle (the best taste) or a plastic bottle (the worst). Should be interesting to see if this catches on. http://www.france24.com/en/20130610-start-offers-french-quality-canned-wine

New Museum opens in Marseille this week

Looks to be interesting exhibits about France, culture and the Mediterranean region, and the first French national museum outside Paris, called MuCem. http://www.france24.com/en/20130604-marseille’-mucem-offers-bridge-between-mediterranean-europe

New flights via Delta from Newark to Paris

This looks interesting, since Air France no longer flies from Newark, Delta is beginning to take up the slack offering flights from Newark to Paris, leaving at 6:50 pm each night. Glad United will have some competition. Don't know if this will help pricing as it has steadily climbed for several years now, but we can hope it will help. Bon voyage! http://www.thestreet.com/story/11938492/1/delta-invades-united-hub-with-newark-paris-service.html?puc=yahoo&cm_ven=YAHOO

Planning and dreaming

As our countdown begins to our next trip and preparations are nearly complete, little packing to do since most of our clothes are already there, I am reminded of that old Dusty Springfield song, "wishing and hoping" Wishing and hoping and thinking and praying, planning and dreaming That seems to be the story of our lives with travel, wishing and hoping to have the money and time, thinking and praying that we will and working toward that goal, then planning and working and dreaming of what can be, then truly living it when we are there. So we are still planning and dreaming, but soon again to be living, feeling more alive once again in Provence.

New editions to the French language 2014 le Petit Robert

In considering French words and terms and thinking about what translates and what does not, and what is truly French in origin and what is not, I have to admit that I have never discussed French kissing. Fortunately, the new edition of Le Petit Robert, the popular French dictionary will include the term for French kiss, galouche and galoucher, along with some other interesting words and slang for the modern era. Much of it is creeping in from English and is technology and finance related. As always, language evolution is fascinating going back to my English lit major days as an undergraduate and my introduction to the all-inclusive Oxford English Dictionary. Thank goodness for the old book clubs where one could join and get the consolidated version which required a magnifying glass to read it. My set still sits in my home library. Somehow, researching on line will never match up to that experience and joy of discovery. In the meantime, we can examine the 2014 Petit Robert and continue to evolve our French slang and conversation: sans blague! http://josephbamat.blogs.france24.com/article/2013/05/28/french-language-new-words-slang-anglicism-dictionary-petit-robert-l-0

A critique of the French education system

In a new book by British author and Time contributor Peter Gumbel. Maybe this is also what contributes to French pessimism as discussed in a prior article I posted. Also interesting discussion about how the education system funnels to three primary universities who produce most of French government officials with a limited view of the country, and the need for greater diversity in government. Sounds familiar, although in America we have diverse education, but not enough diversity of world view, understanding of how America could or should fit better in the rest of the world, and that we do not always do everything the best. We can learn from other countries, especially on climate change, energy conservation, taxes (meaning closing corporate loopholes), etc. http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2010/sep/05/french-schools-pupils-feel-worthless

Les Relais Routiers - nice inexpensive meal

When traveling throughout France, and looking for an inexpensive but good meal, don't forget to look for the signs saying "Les Relais Routiers". Essentially these are designated by the French government for truckers where they get a three course meal and a shower for a set price, off major autoroutes all over the country. Recently, D. ate in one near our home and had the best pizza and salad in the area for 13 euro including wine. Bon Appetite. http://www.relais-routiers.com/

Salad dressing without selection in France

As usual, we were over dinner discussing cultural differences while eating an excellent salad at a favorite restaurant. There, the salad is part of the meal and dressing comes on the salad. Naturally it got us talking about salad in France and how when ordering a salad, there is never a question about dressing, it is always vinaigrette. No one ever asks if there is a different dressing, it is a given, an assumption, like eating a baguette without butter, or cheese after the main course. In American, how many dressings do we have: honey mustard, French, ranch, thousand island, Russian, blue cheese, and on and on. Do we really need it all? Does it really add anything to the salad? Can you taste it when it is smothered in heavy dressing, or is it best enjoyed with a light vinaigrette? Although I love a good blue cheese now and again especially on spinach salad, and Russian on a sandwich, I do always trend back to basic oil and balsamic vinegar. Voila!

French pessimism

Some studies on French pessimism and the rigidity of the French school system. It is an interesting theory that the problems arise in the school system, but maybe it is just part of being French? To complain, even while having good nationalized health care, pension system, standard of living, a 35 hour work week, mandatory five weeks vacation, and so on. How nice though that working parents can have child care, free, where the children learn every day from 8:30 am to 4:30 pm. I had to pay a lot for pre-school so I could work, after care etc. As an American, one can be pessimistic any day we turn on the news, as it is not informative and rather frightening and hostile. Maybe its just human nature to complain. It gives us something to do in between eating, sleeping, but while working. http://news.yahoo.com/maternal-worries-frances-maternelle-schools-205518891.html http://www.csmonitor.com/World/Europe/2013/0502/Unhappy-with-your-life-You-might-be-French

Improving Arles

Arles is not usually one of our more favorite spots in Provence. Fairly urban and run down, it is not what Van Gogh experienced, although many chase that dream in touring it. The old Roman arena is not in good condition but is still used for numerous public events, concerts, etc particularly in the summer. There are a few new spots to see in Arles, the art hotel Le Cloitre, commissioned by Maja Hoffman the Swiss heir to Hoffman laboratories who was raised in Provence. She, through her Luma Foundation, is attempting to build a Frank Gehry designed art center in Arles. The design seems to be bogged down in French bureaucracy and approvals but will be worth watching for its completion. http://www.hotel-cloitre.com/

Selling Presidential French wine?

Would the White House auction wine to fund buying lesser wine? I don't think so. Yet, that is what the French President is doing. The government is selling a small portion of its wine collection, work thousands of euros, to fund buying some new wines, but lesser in price and quality, for state events. Revenue neutral. Works for me. http://www.france24.com/en/20130430-french-presidential-palace-elysee-wine-auction-paris

University attire in France?

As we begin preparing to send a child to college in August, it got me thinking about what parents do in France? I cannot imagine a French dorm room as being well-outfitted the way an American dorm room is. With beds on risers for extra storage. Rather, I suspect they adapt to the limitations in ways we don't. Most importantly, from what I've learned, no French student is going to classes in sweatshirts and pajama bottoms, they get dressed. Can't really imagine someone in Paris going out in sweats to get a baguette, so why would they go to classes like that? So, in my research, it would seem casual, but with style is the key to French university attire.

Artificial sweetener omission

Having given up artificial sweeteners in about 1980 or 1981 back in the "Sweet 'n Low" days, I hardly notice whether a restaurant serves them, and if so, which ones. Pick stevia, equal, or one of the other fashionable ones of the day, I do not pay attention when in a restaurant. Neither does D. So, we started discussing this last night and realized that although you can buy it all in a supermarche' in France, we never see it on a table in a restaurant or when the server brings you your cafe' or the'. Maybe because it is expensive, as is everything else there, sugar is used sparingly and carefully. It is rather like the butter conundrum, where butter is in the food, but is never set on a table with bread.

Start your shopping engines - Summer 2013

As we already know sales in Paris will begin June 26, 2013, but I've been trolling for the start of the sale in other regions and yes, the dates are in: for Provence I'll be there when the stores open on July 3! Close will be August 6. Lots of mark-downs in between. http://soldes.hubpages.com/hub/the-2013-summer-sales-in-france

gay-friendly France

Apparently, the most gay-friendly city in France is now Montpellier, known as the French San Francisco. It will be the place where the first gay marriage is going to be held in about a month. The magazine to look at for GLBT activities in France is "Tetu" http://www.tetu.com/ http://www.france24.com/en/20130422-france-montpellier-first-gay--marriage-wedding

Maple syrup in France

In another one of our rambling conversations, we started to discuss Vermont maple syrup and weather you could find it in France, for "french" toast, waffles, pancakes etc. A little research later and yes, you can purchase syrup in France at Carrefore, and Le Clerc. Not sure that you can buy a mix in France (may have to import that in a suitcase) but I think I can find a recipe and create my own. In further discussion, we wondered what to Belgians eat on their waffles? It is definitely not syrup. Rather, it is whipped cream, strawberries, possibly some melted chocolate, but not syrup, an American/Canadian contribution.

Gelatto v. Ice Cream - what is the difference

We were having that conversation the other day after a special Hagen Daz treat post-dinner. My feeling was that it was a different fat content. Sitting here today watching the house hunters marathon and seeing the new Hagen Daz gelatto commercial raised the question again and prompted some research. The bottom line seems to be that gelatto does, in fact, have less fat, but also less air, churned at a slower speed, and stored/served at a warmer temperature. Another mystery of the universe solved. http://cookingequipment.about.com/od/icecreammachines/f/gelatovicecream.htm

New ideas for Cannes

If you're in the mood for glamour and bling, Cannes can be your dream. Although it feels like the tropics, one does have to be very aware of personal safety while there which is not mentioned in this NY Times article, but it does contains some new ideas, restaurants, bars and hotels. We're spent much time there over the years, and enjoyed it, but have chosen to move on for the relaxation of Provence. It is rather impossible to be there during the film festival, if you can even get a hotel room and a restaurant reserve' but if you have the desire, enjoy: http://travel.nytimes.com/2013/04/21/travel/36-hours-in-cannes-france.html?pagewanted=1

Some new Paris restaurants

We are always looking for good new spots in Paris but sometimes reluctant to try as we don't want to feel we are spending too much money and be disappointed in the food. So, yes, we do get a little boring and return to the same favorites. Provence is easier since we can ask friends for recommendations and the prices are usually much more reasonable, particularly in the off-season. But reading this article from the NY Times looks promising for some new suggestions to try: http://travel.nytimes.com/2013/04/21/travel/strolling-in-paris-with-menus-in-mind.html?src=me&ref=general

Avril is getting ready for the summer

As we begin planning our next journey, Avril is dreaming of the summer too. Her new collar, courtesy of Lancel is on and ready, complete with beautiful leather with gold fleur de lis, and made to last. She dreams of returning to her country and eating her native food, listening to her language (as she is a tri-lingual dog - dog, English and French), going to the best restaurants, the markets and smelling the spices with her hound nose, it is all quite irresistible, even for her. At night we all dream together of a Provencal summer by the pool, listening to the cicadas vibrate and hum in the heat of the day, and recognizing that the work of the winter was all worthwhile to get us back once again to Provence. Working to live, not living to work in true French style.

Opera in France 2013

When I was younger, I always enjoyed opera in NYC, usually going at least once or twice a season. Like most, the Italian works were more my thing, rather than Wagner. Then came children, and middle-age and it has become more difficult to sit still through several hours of anything, much less music however joyous and beautiful it is. But I respect everyone who enjoys it and does it. That said, here is an excellent website for opera fans traveling to France this summer and want to partake from Aix to Paris, Montpellier to Orange, music can be found everywhere. Who knows, maybe one day you will see me there again: http://operabase.com/festival.cgi?lang=en&is=wf

LaCoste music and art festival 2013

Since I seem to be on a music and art fette theme since yesterday, though I would continue with the one at the Pierre Cardin castle in LaCoste, a really beautiful location at the top of a Provencal hill overlooking the valley. Cardin bought what was previously the castle of the Marquis de Sade and restored it. The castle is open to the public, and the town is worth the drive for a lunch or the fette. The programme looks interesting this year from opera with a very good cast, to ballet, to contemporary music. http://www.festivaldelacoste.com/

Jazz at Juan 2013

We haven't been in several years, but always enjoyed the music at this annual festival near the waterfront in Juan les Pins. Once again Diana Krall will be performing, and many others, Sting, Wynton Marsalis etc. It will likely be more enjoyable than the last time when folks were still allowed to smoke in their seats. Phew. http://www.jazzajuan.com/en-us/2013programmation.aspx

Avignon theater festival in July 2013

The dates this year are from July 5-26, can't wait to walk the streets of Avignon, seeing the ancient buildings hosting the eclectic and electric street theater of the performers. The streets are lined with posters, and the party is hopping all night long. How exciting. http://www.festival-avignon.com/en/

Nuts for Nutella

The world seems to have gone nuts for Nutella. You know Nutella, the chocolate with hazelnut spread. I was first exposed to it in 1977 when I was in Europe for the first time. Although I enjoyed it, I never found it to be that special that I would steal to feed my Nutella habit, but apparently others do have that compulsion. Recently, I was reading an article about students taking jars of Nutella from the cafeteria at Columbia University, so they could eat it in their dorm rooms, costing the University thousands of dollars. Also recently, I read an article about a large Nutella heist in Germany, with a $20,000 load of Nutella being stolen. Ok, maybe the last one was just about the money, but seriously - Nutella? I suppose it has its benefits that even when you open the jar, it doesn't have to be refrigerated, and the ingredient list is pretty good, but if Nutella, what comes next - Lu cookies?

Over 500 posts now on J'adore France

D. often tells me I give out too much information for free, but I strongly believe the internet is about sharing info and experiences, and now have posted over 500 times, sharing info with you our readers, averaging over 1000 per month and nearing 25,000 page views. Voila!

beware pickpockets at the Louvre

In Paris, one always must be aware of pickpockets and thieves, no different than NYC or any other major city. Just like NYC there are always people begging in the Metro and, unlike NYC, we also see different gypsy groups working the subways. Now, the Louvre is being targeted, and employees are so concerned they staged a walkout. So, before you go, check and make sure it is open: http://omg.yahoo.com/news/louvre-workers-walk-off-job-over-pickpockets-142035701.html

Airbus 380-800 - Wow!!

Having just returned from a roundtrip on Air France via JFK and our first experience on the new Airbus 380-800, I can only say wow!! I am not someone who focuses usually on what kind of plane I'm traveling on other than will it get me where I want to go and back. But truly, this was an amazing plane. Smooth take-offs and landings as if not even off the ground. Quiet without the constant loud hum of normal jet engines. Enormous, bigger than a 747 in terms of seating on two levels. Really impressive plane, and a miracle this monster gets off the ground with the plane, the people, the luggage and other equipment. Truly a miracle of modern engineering.

A french village

So many people have read Peter Mayle's books and his experiences in his French village, and we have ours. In Eygalieres, it is almost picture perfect, a fantasy in reality of what it should all be like. Where people get dressed for Friday market day, to be seen, and mingle, to socialize. Where someone can hold court every morning in the same cafe in the same seat for 40 years, sitting undisturbed doing a crossword puzzle, sipping one cafe for an hour with no one hurrying him to vacate the table for others, allowing the world to come to him. Where villagers help each other, supporting local businesses and artisans, masons, mechanics. And where vendors return to the market every week, and we know who has the best paella, or the vietnamese food being made freshly while we wait, or the cheese vendor we see in St. Remy and in Apt., the woman selling espadrilles whose booth expands each year, and the gentlemen selling smoked meats and salmon (maybe bagels and lox next summer?). Ah for the simple life. Returning soon.

Sheep in Paris

Although we see sheep all over Provence (as in December, crossing the road) this idea is tres intelligente for Paris, sheep to graze and maintain lawns outside the national archives building. The sheep are much quieter and eco-friendly than the gas-using, fume-spewing, noisy mechanical mowers, and they're cheaper. Maybe for NYC soon as Mayor Bloomberg does often find new ideas in London and Paris for improving NYC. Bon chance. http://www.nytimes.com/2013/04/04/world/europe/sheep-tend-lawn-outside-city-archives-in-paris.html?_r=0

Most scenic road trips?

This article includes rides through Amalfi Coast in Italy (lovely) and a drive from French Alps into Menton near Cannes on the Cote d'azur (even better for me). As article mentions, check your breaks and not for those who suffer from motion sickness as with all smaller European roadways, they will wind and at times seem quite treacherous. Steady nerves required, along with proper car meaning not a big American-style SUV. Rather, a smaller, lower to the ground, stable vehicle. Nothing like driving these roads with manual transmission, if you are able - that is real driving. http://www.huffingtonpost.com/us-news-travel/10-most-scenic-road-trips_b_3000378.html

Chocolate art in Avignon

In the rain today, we took a drive and walked through the square in Avignon. It was busy but not full like the summer. We stopped by the window at a favorite patisserie where in the windows there were beautiful chocolates left from Easter. The figures ranging from typical bunnies and ducks, to turtles and fish with such fine detail as many sculptures, reminding me of a childhood ice cream and candy shop in the town center which always had beautiful displays of seasonal candies an goodies. Missing the Gruning's famous coffee chip ice cream tonight but happy to be in Provence where beauty still lives on.

Spring colors in France

Shopping and strolling through Provence and spring fashion colors are in evidence everywhere, in every shop, in handbags, and shoes, in scarves and other accessories. To be in fashion here one must have clothing or accessories in blush, coral and a little aqua. I always think aqua and French blue looks good on almost everyone as does blush. Coral, on the other hand is a more difficult color to wear and not for everyone, not really for me. Maybe in a foulard or echarpe? Fortunately, I had already purchased blush sandals. As always, I will find a way to work the colors in to my spring and summer wardrobe as we return to France in June.

Spring day in Provence

Today is beautiful, sun shinning, trees and plants budding and flowering. The grass is already a deep dark green, the air is clear and smells like earth, a smell that was noticeable as soon as we stepped off the train in Avignon. The growing season is beginning, floralies (flower shows) are everywhere as people buy flowers for their homes. We have joined in and planted a few here and there and hope they are still alive and blooming when we return for the summer, along with the oranges, lemons, and other beautiful plants of Provence.

Palace of Madam Pompadour

Fascinating article with beautiful photos of a special chateau still in private hands. Hope the owner does donate to a major museum who can afford to maintain it, and in keeping with his fabulous restoration: http://www.forbes.com/sites/morganbrennan/2013/03/28/inside-frances-100-million-palace-pompadour-a-royal-chateau-restored-by-a-press-shy-philanthropist/?utm_source=homes.yahoo.com&utm_medium=partner&utm_campaign=france%2Bpompadour%2Bpalace

Easter in Provence

Is quiet, not the buzz of Christmas or the summer. While some attend church, France does not have a strong religious push in its culture, so sitting in Eygalieres yesterday having a perrier and engaging in our favorite sport of people watching, we noticed some dressed for church while others were not. No Easter hats anywhere. Today, Monday, many businesses are closed, many schools on break and people traveling. But as always there is Easter food, bunnies and eggs, beautiful berry-based pastries (but no Peeps), and spring weather ranging from the low 60s into the 40s at night. Great sleeping weather, so that is what we have done, some gardening and sleeping and of course eating. Unfortunately, where we live in the woods in the US, I have stopped gardening because we end up feeling as though we are merely feeding the animals, particularly the deer. Here, wildlife is more limited, although we had an extraordinary experience Saturday pulling in and seeing a big healthy fox cross our driveway heading into the fields, he stopped and watched us, startled to see a person on his territory and trying to determine if we were a threat. As naturally we are not, he sauntered on his way. Perhaps he will feel differently when we return in a few weeks with Avril.

cheapest times to travel

If you've thought that airfares are going up, you're right. According to various travel websites, airfares to popular destinations are increasing, particular at certain times of the year. Seems that January is the cheapest time to travel. Always good time to get to France for the sales. http://travel.yahoo.com/ideas/airfares-to-popular-destinations-soared-in-2012-214521978.html

Inexpensive train service Paris to Provence

Reviewing this article about less expensive ways to travel in Europe this summer, and the most important new information for us was the OUIGO high speed train service from Gare Marne la Vallee outside Paris to Avignon, Aix, or Marseille, for about 25 Euro. Services begins next month, April 2013. The Gare or Station is within EuroDisney and can be reached via TGV from Charles de Gaulle airport in about ten minutes. Worth checking out. http://www.huffingtonpost.com/tom-meyers/13-easy-tips-for-saving-o_b_2885792.html

Paris photo exhibit - reflections

We all think of Paris as the City of Light, but one photographer, Joanna Lemanska, views it as a city of water and reflection. On exhibit now. Truly beautiful and creative photographs: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/03/16/beautiful-paris-photos-reflections-joanna-lemanska_n_2878942.html#slide=more286423

Around the world with J'Adore France

Periodically, we enjoy reviewing our reader statistics to learn where our audience is coming from and we have become a truly international website and blog with readers from every continent (except Antarctica), and we are adding readers from new countries all the time. Our most recent additions include Thailand, Israel, and South Korea. So, bienvenue, welcome, and keep dreaming of France. For those who dream of travel and travel to dream.

Daylight savings in France

As always, discussing the time change with D. sparked us to discern whether the same just occurred for France. Not yet. For a few brief weeks, we are a little closer to France time-wise due to the changes in the US daylight savings schedule. Right now, France is only a five hour difference, but only until March 31. http://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/clockchange.html?n=195

The French and speaking English

When I was in high school and traveled to France for the first time, few French spoke English and making it difficult for we Americans who are not good at other languages. Now, France is distinctly different, as so many young people are working hard to learn and speak English, while we are working hard to learn and speak French. So it was interesting to read the attached article which describes the French and their difficulty in learning English via the existing educational system and that they are 69th in the world for multi-lingual skills. The article doesn't say what America is but must be lower, as so few Americans even have a passport (about 25% now which is a higher number since post 9/11 travel to Mexico and a few other Caribbean Islands now require a passport. Here's hoping we continue to improve in our language skills and travel experiences, bon voyage: http://www.thedailybeast.com/articles/2013/03/09/why-don-t-the-french-speak-english.html

in France is fast food now king?

Fascinating study about food in France shows a huge increase in French eating fast food. They apparently eat more pizza than any country other than the USA. Difference is there is only about 65 million of them, and 300 million of us. The study suggests some of it may be economically driven as fast food there, like here, is much cheaper, and families in France are hurting economically. The number buried in the article is that average French salary is $2300 per month for a family of four with both parents working. The difference is child care is available and health care, subsidized housing etc. so that money goes much farther there then it would here. Not sure if that is gross or net (ie before or after taxes). http://news.yahoo.com/fries-le-big-mac-eroding-frances-culinary-heritage-230007189.html

Should French police be more polite? Oui!

In a recent survey, the vast majority of French think people in France are rude to each other. Most importantly, French police are viewed as rude to the general public and particularly minorities. Thus, French police are being instructed and trained to no longer use the familiar "vu" when dealing with the public. Often, they were using the familiar to demean suspects, particularly minorities. Should be interesting to survey in a few years to determine whether the changes are having any effect in how the public perceives the police. http://www.france24.com/en/20130301-french-police-ordered-be-polite-all-times-0

Paris hotels - major renovations

If you are planning a trip to Paris, don't plan on staying at the Ritz, or after this month, the Crillon. Both are undergoing major renovations and upgrades. The Ritz is still owned by Dodi Fayed's father, and the Crillon was purchased last year by a Saudi prince who is upgrading it and is hiring a new management firm. But it is Paris, and there are so many wonderful, upscale hotels, just pick your neighborhood and that is the major determining factor for us, and why we end up at or near the Plaza Athenee.

Heavyweights battle for Mayor of Paris

Can't say that there are heavyweights in NYC, LA or DC battling to be mayor, a rather thankless job. Definitely not political heavyweights anyway. Apparently the opposite is true in Paris, where it is such a high-profile position, and one with enough power to try to make major innovations in various programs. Perhaps San Francisco would be comparable? http://www.france24.com/en/20130215-france-political-elite-covet-paris-mayors-office

Easter Foods in France

As we begin to prepare for our next journey back to France which will be over Easter, it was time to commence the research. As my son says, all we do is food and markets. So, according to my research the regular markets are still occurring, even in Isles Sur la Sorgue. Monday is a bank and national holiday so it is a long weekend from work, and more celebration food and shopping. Perhaps we'll journey to Cavaillon to see how the market there is on the day after Easter. As always, French food is a center-piece of the holiday with much symbolism from the chocolate decorative eggs, to the chocolate bells, egg dishes, lamb either leg of or stew, and more. Oh, and the April Fish (their version of April fools) http://www.ehow.com/facts_5185789_easter-foods-do-french-eat_.html Another adventure on the way.

Book announcement

Pleased to announce to our many readers publication of two ebooks on Amazon: The first: "The Mommy Handbook" a satire of corporate handbooks in the parenting realm. Priced at $4.99, a fun birthday, anniversary or Mother's Day gift. "Early and Late" a compilation of poems written since about 1977 to present. Priced at $6.99, for fans of modern poetry. Enjoy.

A tablecloth for every season

Over the years I have collected a few oilcloth tablecloths for our kitchen table here in the US, one for each season. Oilcloth is definitely the preferred medium as it wipes up easily and only requires a gentle (with Woolite on cold) machine wash once or twice a year, hang dry with no ironing. Right now, Avril is enjoying sleeping on the fall/winter cloth, one with ocres, greens and yellow, that reminds me of fall colors. When the leaves begin to change color, this cloth joins the tableau in our kitchen, on the table next to the window, so we can view the trees outside as they fall into winter, losing their leaves, heading into rest. I always wish I could join them and the bears and hibernate until spring, stay snuggled in flannel sheets and down comforters until Spring. By then, we can change over to a more cheerful welcoming table, bright with lemons and blues to match the hues of the sky as we head toward summer. By then we can go full Provence, with the white tablecloth, full of Provencal lavender and roses, softly directing us to return to France, saying welcome back.

The incubator

Driving through Provence, we often see signs for pepiniere and never understood the meaning. Recently, I finally researched it and learned it means incubator, and can be used in different ways. It may mean for plants as in a nursery, or can be pepiniere business or a business incubator, meaning to nurture new and creative business concepts. As always the French language has fascinating nuances, particularly when applying beautiful old words to modern applications.

Amsterdam - a different dream

Since I was about 2 years old, I have been on figure skates of all sizes, skated ponds and outdoor rinks, especially one that existed then in Branch Brook Park in Newark designed by Olmstead who designed NYC's Central Park. I grew up further as a regular rink rat at South Mountain Arena, spending hours there on and off the ice, as a second home. Since having children whenever I skate I make sure to help children on the ice with my kids, their friends, foster kids and anyone else who wanted help as skating is a simple form of fun. A top ten item on my bucket list has always been to skate the canals in Amsterdam one winter when it is cold enough, perhaps next year when S. is in college and our time is more free. We've enjoyed Amsterdam in prior trips. The last time was several years ago for a family bat mitzvah at a synagogue that exists for about 200 years in the Hague. We then spent several days in Amsterdam at the Hotel Pulitzer which is a series of old homes where walls have been joined into a lovely maze of rooms, surprisingly good food, and right on the major canals. Although we did not always find the best food outside the hotel (ethnic foods were the better bet), we could walk outside and get on a canal boat to the Anne Frank House in one direction or the Ryjks Museum in the other. Each time I have visited the Anne Frank House it is an experience that gives me the chills, imagining the family living in that tiny space, and dreaming of freedom to do the things we all take for granted. Another must visit is always the Van Gogh Museum containing one fascinating and colorful painting after another, a truly misunderstood artist of his era. When S. was with us on one trip as we toured the Van Gogh museum he was clearly looking for one painting in particular. At the end of the tour he sadly advised me that it was not there. Which one, I asked? Starry night, he replied, a painting he had studies several years earlier in Kindergarten. I was surprised he even remembered it. But I assured him that the painting was in New York at the Modern Museum and we could go see it. A few weeks later we did just that, making time to see other exhibits on display including a Matisse/Cezanne which was touring through major museums. Another favorite of his was the painting with the yellow room and a narrow bed which reminded us of his room at home. The poster we purchased of that painting was framed and still hangs in his room, now over his much larger bed, so at night he can always dream of Van Gogh and Amsterdam, and be assured that Starry Night will be close by in New York. He still has very fond memories of that Museum and Amsterdam. At that time we had just begun to explore spending more time and Provence. Perhaps the connection with Van Gogh lead us to the beauty he so appreciated even when he was ill and suffering, he could still see Provence well enough to capture its flavor in his works.

The decaffeine fiend in France

Whether to feed the fiend or not, that is the question. For me, decaf is the way I travel and in France over the years it has been hard to find, and when I have seen it on the menus I was not always confidence that it would be caffeine-free. Rather like a non-smoking section on a plane back in the day (what day?) or a non-smoking section of a restaurant in France only a few years ago. So, when traveling I would go weeks without a decaf coffee and it would be the first thing I would drink when coming off the plane - right to Starbucks - in the USA. I have noticed a sea change in France regarding caffeine more recently, finding it more often on menus, particularly coffee shops, and even in the supermarket. Now, our house is properly stocked with decaf espresso ready for the melango espresso pod machine. A little milk and we're good to go, without the fiend of caffeine.

French manners - bathroom included

As we know, the French find good manners to be very important. Bon jour, bon soir, merci, all critical statements to make in France in any shop or restaurant. But when attending an event at someone's home, manners rise to another level. As we learned at FIAF, bringing desserts to a dinner party is important, flowers or other appropriate gift to a birthday and so on. But, we had an entire dialogue at a party in December about bathroom use. D. had read that when invited to someone's home in France it is impolite to use the toilet. As D. is a completely uninhibited person, he raised the topic among friends at this holiday party to test the waters. The attendees were a mixture of French, Americans, Canadians, Brits and other nationalities, so it was a "relief" to learn (pun intended), after drinking water and soda that it was not unacceptable to use the bathroom and we could partake before getting in the car for an hour drive home. So, bring on the water, coffee, and cake.

Matisse at the Met

Since becoming ill, we have not made it to our favorite recreation spot in NYC, the Metropolitan Museum. As this was the infamous first date for us, it is where we always go back, experiencing multiple countries and travel dreams in mere hours. This rainy afternoon we arrived at the Museum, used the parking lot at the Museum to limit my walking, managed to find handicapped parking right near the entrance, and wound our way through ancient Rome and Greece, through Africa and Australia (Oceana) to France and Matisse. It was an exceptional exhibit, viewing paintings that demonstrated his progression as an artist, often painting different interpretations of the same scene or still-life, rather like Picasso's work. More subtle and less dramatic than Picasso. We then strolled through renaissance France, and Baroque artwork, and other impressionists in the Lehman gallery to view the small exhibition of 18th century French landscape or "plen air" paintings. It was interesting that although the artists were largely French, many of the landscapes were Italian, some villas and views appearing as they still may look today. Then back through the American wing and Baroque to find the Met store for a few gifts. The new impressionists exhibit will not open until later in the week so we will return again soon, even before we return to France. Until then, we had a day close to our dreams.

The new Michelin Guide - with a new 3-star award

The only new 3 star restaurant, La Vague d'or, is located at Residence de la Pinede in St. Tropez, which we ate at about 10 years ago, but believe it was under different ownership and chef at the time. Although we don't follow the star system much, as we have found that the food is often over-priced and not worth the money and we are more bistro-type low key foodies, we may have to venture there soon with an excursion over the winding hills from St. Remy to St. Tropez. http://www.france24.com/en/20130218-arnaud-donckele-la-vague-dor-restaurant-three-stars-michelin-guide-france-gastronomy

Summer sales for 2013 in Paris

As always, travel in France requires advance planning, especially for the sales, so here are the beginning dates for Paris: June 26 through July 30. Provence dates usually start closer to July 4 and run into the first week of August. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem as though there are any sales on airfare. We miss the days of $600 or less round trip to Paris, in January. Those fares seem long gone, leaving less money for sale shopping. Oh well.

Have bagels become a universal food?

Growing up here in the New York-metropolitan area, good bagels were always to be found in the right deli or shop. Bagels could be found in certain areas of Boston or Philadelphia, but not everywhere. When I was a child, my parents had a vacation home on Cape Cod. Any guest who was invited had to meet the house requirement, bringing bagels and deli (mainly Hebrew National cold cuts and smoked fish). Most of what was brought would end up in the freezer and parceled out for Sunday breakfast or for company. A bagel could not be found on Cape Cod anywhere, much less a good bagel. Having attended Brandeis University, it was a school tradition to have bagels every Sunday morning for brunch. Now outside the Northeast who even knew what a brunch was? Now it is a universal term, at least in America. Any good bread is dependent not only on the baker's skills, the recipe, and the equipment, but also the water and humidity. So now, no matter where we go, we see some form of bagel. Is what Dunkin Donuts sells really a bagel? No. But most people would not know that without the crispy exterior and chewy interior of a good bagel, that what they are usually eating is not a bagel, but an adaptation of something trying to be a bagel, with butter rather than the good whipped creme cheese like Temptee (which is the best). Now the other day we took a drive up Route 15 and happened on a bagel spot which we've driven by quite a few times and always appears busy. We were pleasantly surprised to find a real New York style bagel with the correct consistency and taste. In the refrigerator was fresh creme cheese along with chive cheese and lox or white fish spread. Very nice for a bagel and a schmeer. Even this weekend, while on a college tour in New England, attending a reception for admitted students at one school, we were surprised to find bagels and creme cheese next to the fruit and coffee cake. There it dawned on me that bagels have become so endemic to American society, we can find them almost anywhere in one form or another, an increasingly universal food. We've even seen a bagel shop in Aix. But, don't worry, bagels won't be replacing a baguette anytime soon.

Food around the world

In the last week, we've been eating out a lot, and it feels as though we are traveling the world with food. Can we really do this only in America? Maybe Jules Verne did around the world in 80 days, we do it in a week of restaurants without traveling far from home. Saturday was Barbuto in NYC which is northern Italian style (and highly unique in everything), Sunday night was Chinese New Year at Chengdu 1 in Cedar Grove (always authentic Sezchuan food, full of Chinese eating holiday special foods including dumplings), Tuesday was Mardi Gras Fat Tuesday at Hat City Kitchen in Orange for Cajun food and zydeco music, and tonight was Eagan's for Buffalo Wings. I'm exhausted just thinking about traveling to those places for real. This weekend will be New England sea food for a change of pace. But in New England for real. Looking forward to a change of scenery as we tour colleges and scout restaurants to visit should S. attend a school nearby.

Mccheeseburger?

Starting Feb. 12 for six weeks in France, six special French cheeses on McDonald's burgers - and sandwiches. Interesting statistic that France is McDonald's second-biggest market after the US. http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/02/11/mcdonalds-france-mccamembert_n_2664076.html?ncid=txtlnkushpmg00000029&ir=Business

Barbuto - always a 15

When D. and I go to dinner, we usually rank the meal 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest number on the scale. This evening for the first time in eight months, since I was ill, we made it to Barbuto, always our favorite in NYC. As always, the food was a 15, no matter what we were eating, from the zuppa that D. ordered as an appetizer, to the hanger steak as his main course on a bed of salad with chickpeas that was fabulous, and the salad and chicken I ordered were amazing, not to mention the italian chocolate pudding dessert. And don't forget to order the potatoes and a vegetable side dish, for a complete meal. We always love sitting near the kitchen and watching all the action as the well-trained staff works its magic on each dish. On this Saturday night, it was full even after last night's snow storm. We were thrilled to see the chef and owner, Jonathan Waxman working the tables and he stopped by to visit with us for a few minutes. I was so happy to be at the restaurant and most importantly to share with the chef the enormous difference he unknowingly made for me while I was ill with his recipe for butternut squash soup with apples and apple cider, which I made for the first time in the fall, and kept making throughout my illness. Making it in large pots every few weeks, it was something I could eat on days when nothing else was palatable. It was comforting and nutritious, combining vegetable and spices, sweetness and calmness all at the same time. Like so much of Waxman's food, it has layers and levels to the flavor in expected ways and combinations. It is so important for us to remember sometimes that food is not always about food, it can be about comfort, and beauty, kindness and caring. The recipe represented all of that for me, keeping me focused on surviving long enough to return to our favorite places, including Barbuto. Always wanting to pay it forward.

Funerals in France

As folks who have illnesses, D. and I have been discussing all the awful things in life, funerals and wills. We were also discussing funerals in France, realizing that in all the driving we do through the country, we don't see funeral homes in the way we see them here, but they must exist. So a little research was necessary, to discover costs involved, about 3000 euro, or less if it involves cremation, about 1700 euro, and that costs have declined due to the economy. Apparently, France changed the laws in the last few years to force competition in the hope of driving prices down, which did not succeed until the economy crashed: http://worldcrunch.com/world-affairs/dying-in-times-of-crisis-the-rise-of-budget-burials/burial-mortician-cremation-deal-business/c1s10044/#.URXC0hzRyU4

Eygalieres in Winter

When we are in Provence in summer, the markets are so crowded with people and tents, the trees are full of leaves and lushness, that it is hard to view the cities and villages, so in the winter, it was a pleasant experience to see more of the buildings and views, to see our regular vendors, visit shops and hear nothing but French spoken, and feel more a part of the French life and lifestyle. We will see in a few weeks the differences in the Spring, more rain we can expect, and more green, and the markets and fields coming back to life after the quiet and peace of winter.

A year of Cheese?

In visiting my favorite cheese shop in St. Remy, it is hard to contemplate how many cheese exist in France. Although they have so much in the shop, I know there are still some varieties they do not stock (like St. Andre) as they stock the cheese endemic to the region. Just with the cheeses they do stock, I can imagine taking an entire year to sample and truly savor and understand each cheese, and maybe still not having enough time.

Holidays at Javaud

As always when we were in France, we did get to Javaud for bread and goodies, the Cap Sud location. It was dressed for the holidays with charming decorations, and full of special foods, including bouche noel. It was so crowded, like they were giving the food away, even when it is not inexpensive, but worthwhile. If I am bringing a gift of sweets to someone's home (as is the French custom), it comes from there. Besides the holiday goodies, don't forget the basic baguette, and most importantly the "crumble" which is a cross between an American muffin top and coffee cake crumble with fruit. An amazing special breakfast with your espresso.

Spa towns in Europe

Two French spa towns in this article, Vichy and Aix-les-Bain (near the Alps), all beautiful. Naturally, Bath in England, featured in every Jane Austin book, is included as well: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/01/27/europe-spa-towns_n_2481111.html#slide=more274911

Spring dreaming

As we begin planning our return to Provence, I'm still digesting the last trip, thinking of one evening driving south on the autoroute toward Aix at sunset. The sky was clear and changing color. Sometimes I have wondered where all the Provence colors come from besides lavandre, but there they were, every color we see in Provence, in different patterns through the horizon. As beautiful as any impressionist painting in a museum, but ever changing and disappearing, without duplication.

Changes at White Toque

A favorite spot for us is a restaurant supply wholesaler in Secaucus, White Toque. For several years they have also had a retail component where we would go every few months and stock up on Maille vinegars and other French products including quiche and potatoes Dauphin and other cooking supplies. Unfortunately, they have closed the retail shop and now we are relegated to only ordering online with fewer products available as we are not ordering in quantity for a restaurant. Je suis tres desole.

Tour de France 2013 Route

Fabulous route for the Tour de France this year, bringing it into Provence to Aix on July 4 for the start. Obviously the date has no significance for the French but for we Americans it should be an interesting day after Lance Armstrong's confession of doping and losing his Tour titles. We can hope that this year's race is clean and exciting. for those who want to attend even a portion of the race, it is great fun, more for the crowds and the parade of sponsors, and the few seconds you actually see the racers speed by, here's the route: http://www.letour.com/le-tour/2013/us/overall-route.html Check back in June when they release the details/times for each village the race will transit through

Marseille - 2013 European Capital of Culture

With this designation, Marseille is working hard to overcome issues related to safety and crime and focus on its beauty and architecture. And now it even has a Starbucks! We will be back to Marseille this summer to understand it a bit more. For additional suggestions, here is a new article about Marseille from Conde Nast Traveler: http://www.cntraveler.com/daily-traveler/2013/01/marseille-france-travel-guide-architecture-hotels-food Here is excellent link to English description of all museums in Marseille: http://marseillecityofculture.eu/museums.html

Best Hotels/Resorts - Conde Nast Traveler

Conde Nast Traveler has an interesting choice from readers for the 7th in the top 10 resorts and hotels in the world - Villa Gallici in Aix. http://www.cntraveler.com/readers-choice-awards/best-in-the-world-top-10-hotels-photos#slide=7 We will have to see for ourselves on our next trip.

Best Hotels in France - Travel and Leisure

There are so many great hotels in France that it is difficult to pick the "best" but we are pleased to see Plaza Athenee in Paris as the top choice of Travel and Leisure as it is for us: http://www.travelandleisure.com/articles/best-hotels-in-france/2

Thoughts on winter smoking in France

No, I'm not talking about the smoking hot french people in their stylish winter clothes, but smoking outside of restaurants and bars in the winter. Almost every restaurant or bar has outside seating areas, some with tents and heaters where those who want to smoke can sit pursuant to recent changes in anti-smoking laws throughout the EU. People are happy to sit outside and drink wine or coffee so long as the weather is not terrible, smoking or not, and the weather in Provence was quite pleasant so even in 40s or 50s we were sitting and drinking a coffee or Perrier outside, so long we were not in a tent and no one was smoking around us. But inside it was quite pleasant eating meals in a smoke-free environment, something we never thought we would experience in France, given the heavy smoking that has been historic there. During past winter trips in Paris or the Alps we have often been stuck inside small restaurants with low ceilings filled with smoke, rather the way it used to be here in the US. It always brings me back to the days when people smoked in offices, bars, and on planes and cigarettes were 50 cents a pack rather than $5.00 or more today. More and more we do notice in Europe that young people are not smoking, and us middle-aged folks are in the mix too. Perhaps the push has been due to the overwhelming costs to the health care systems of smoking and cancer, heart disease, strokes, and so on. Regardless of the reason, for we non-smokers it has definitely made traveling in France in the winter a much better experience.

Summer 2013 travel - services

Dear Readers: To start the New Year, don't forget that, in addition to the blog, J'Adore France can provide you the following services: 1. Personally guided travel with the owners of J'Adore France LLC in Provence. 2. Travel planning: assistance with planning travel itineraries for Europe destinations like France, Italy, Spain, and Holland. 3. Shopping tours of Paris and Provence including the Cote D'azur. (Best time is during sales in January and July) 4. Shopping service: We will shop for and ship items you cannot purchase anywhere else, but are not available via le web. For more information, you can review our website at www.jadorefrance.net and email us at jadorefrance2011@gmail.com.

new Air France flights - mini fares

Can't get Air France to Paris direct anymore, but they're trying to compete with easyjet with mini fares - 50 euro - from Orly in Paris to airports around Europe. Interesting concept so long as you're not checking luggage (that would cost 15 euro more). http://www.smartertravel.com/blogs/today-in-travel/air-france-offers-ultra-cheap-mini-fares.html?id=13669313

Alfa Romeo - what fun!

Although I drove a manual transmission car daily for 15 years, it is always on my mind that I will forget how to drive one, so it was with great relief that I managed to drive our Alfa on this trip for the first time. I was not in any condition to drive it last summer. So getting behind the wheel is always a little nerve-wracking, but like always it came back to me like I had never stopped driving a stick. The car was fast, well-powered, with a five-speed, and a pleasure to drive, not too big for the roads there, great turning radius with tight steering. I always dislike cars with soupy loose steering. Looking forward to next trip and driving again.

Product search

On each trip to France we usually try to seek out one or two products that we need or want and determine whether it can be found there. This trip's product was powdered mustard. D. wanted to see if I could find it for when I cook some of his favorite foods including grilled veal chops, and turkey meatballs. We looked at the spice vendors in various markets, at Intermarche and in the local epicurie without success. Although the spice vendors had mustard seed, they did not have powdered mustard. That is until we were at my favorite spice vendor in the St. Remy market and voila, he had it. Another item we could not find was ground turkey. Veal was a good substitute for the meatballs and became the basis for an excellent meal, with salad, bread from Javaud, haricot verte, what could be better?

Paul - now in US

A favorite stop in the Paris CDG (Charles de Gaulle) airport is Paul, a wonderful bakery. Very worthwhile as soon as we land, outside the airport Sheraton, and just before getting on the TGV. We usually get croissant, sometimes a sandwich, and definitely an apricot pastry which is crispy, buttery and tangy all at the same time (not an easy task). Paul has now made some inroads in the US including in Miami and several in the DC area. Bienvenue!

Additional services offered by J'Adore France LLC

For our readers, we will be offering two new services in addition to our travel tours of Provence: 1. A personal shopping service for French products. This will be a service designed for those who have traveled in France, particularly Provence, purchased items which they have used up and cannot order from the US, or particular clothing, handbags or other items. 2. Other travel services i.e. designing itineraries for Europe travel. Please contact us if you are interested in these services.