Le Journal Farandole - good resource

In addition to reading my favorite real estate magazines, I am always looking for resources for local events. Although I have seen this publication before, this trip I really was able to read it and understand the many events listed in its calendar for the holiday season, including December 24, the blessing of the truffles at a local church. The website is also helpful as you can local the links to local town websites which will also list many events, as well as a master calendar. Yes, it is in French, but you can use the google translation service to translate the page into English. http://www.journal-farandole.com/index.php?p=age

Joel Durand - Perfect as Always

Yesterday we had the opportunity to re-stock our chocolate supply by returning to Joel Durand in St. Remy. We have had chocolate in so many places in France and the US but no place as wonderful as Joel Durand. Yesterday, he was personally serving customers and I was fortunate enough to have him assist me in purchasing a box of truffle to take home. His shop is always beautiful, fully stock and smells like heaven with the chocolate fountain in the window, like chocolate chaud - hot chocolate waiting for its milk and mug. He was also ensuring that his staff was regularly offering samples including his New Year's special which was a truffle which included pavot (poppy) which gave the filling a crunch, and framboise (raspberry) which added additional sweetness. Parfait! Although he was still selling the ice cream cubes, it was a little chilly to eat ice cream, but it will give us something to dream of and work toward for the next trip. Merci Mr. Durand!

Molleges Gare - the necessities

Be it home or our other home, we always believe in supporting local businesses. As part of this trip we tried to use the local shops nearest to our house. Although our address is Eygalieres, and we love the market, cafes, restaurants, and the local epicure, Molleges Gare is a little closer and easier than finding in-town parking especially on a busy summer day. We were really pleased on this trip to get a pizza from Pizza de la Gare - all fresh ingredients, nice owners, and quite busy. We also have been enjoying fresh baguettes and some desserts from the Boulangerie. The cafe/tabac has not been open but we will make an effort to try a lunch there this summer. We even now have a store for necessities like eggs and milk - including organic products which was quite nice and well-stocked. There is a local cave or winery which we will also visit in the summer. The antiques shops (there are two) are lovely and jammed with stuff but we need to go back. One the prices were quite high, the other we need to explore further. Add it all to the list for spring and summer, as we get ready to pack up tomorrow and TGV to Paris for New Year's! Bon Anee!

Dress for Provencal Winter

Being the crazed traveler that I am, I worried about what to pack, do I wear New York black? Provence is so colorful in summer including the clothes, what do people wear in December? I felt safe packing jeans, along with black sweaters, shirts, slacks and a skirt, along with colorful scarves, and as I engage in our daily people-watching exercises, feel I have hit it on the mark. Naturally, I picked up a few fresh scarves from my favorite scarf lady - Kim - who always keeps me supplied like a dealer for an addict - have to add to my collection, nothing goes to waste as each one gets warn. For next year I would definitely be more comfortable with an even heavier jacket or coat as although it is not very cold, the dampness adds to the feeling of cold and my leather jacket with quilted lining was fine but could be even warmer. I was surprised to see many women in shearlings and down. So my layers and shawls along with my favorite faux fur leopard print hat have all got me through the trip very comfortably.In discussing the weather with a friend's husband, he explained that right now the weather has been mild, maybe a little milder than usual, but by February it will be much colder and truly feel like it. We hope to be back in April for a week, but we shall see, to experience another season in Provence.

Avignon Flea market

It is rather like an enormous multi-family yard sale, with furniture, clothes, electronics, tools, and anything else you can think of. As you walk through the field you realize that nothing goes to waste here, it is just a different form of recycling. It is worthwhile to have a list going in of items you are looking for, but you can always find the unexpected. A must is to get there no later than 8 a.m., dressed down as sometimes you are walking through mud or dirt, and the fancier you are dressed, the higher the prices will be as you negotiate. We went last Saturday looking for a large mirror for one bedroom, containers for sugar and flour, and a night stand for a bedroom and a few other odds and ends. I had budgeted about 100 euro (about $130). It took some time and patience in the cold, and unfortunately, it was so chilly I had only one hat - leopard print faux fur- and was definitely over dressed. So I scouted with S. and D. hung back, we conferred and he would return to negotiate without me. At the end, we had spent only 35 euro and got two night stands instead of just one, a beautiful mirror (nicer than I had expected), as well as the china containers. Today's find was a clothes spider (like one my mother had in the 60s) but needed in the yard here for laundry as few people have dryers due to energy costs. Viola!

Christmas trees in Provence

As discussed in some of my earlier posts on this trip, holiday decorations here are very tasteful and understated, including Christmas trees. As we drive through towns and villages, we rarely see homes decorated with lights, perhaps due to the cost of electricity. So, we were interested to see in the local supermarket, Intermarche, on December 22, there were still a few trees left which seemed rather expensive (about $45 per tree

) and the trees were small, and in pots meaning they will still alive and could be planted after the holidays were over. Additionally, they were could still be watered, not dried out and causing fires which happened inevitably every year in the US.

Absence and omission in France - vanity plates

In my legal training, we learned much about the absence of action, or the failure to act, or an omission. So, sometimes in traveling it takes us a while to realize that something we take for granted in the US is missing here. Last night on our way to Aix, we realized in discussing French license plates, that vanity plates would be easy to create here since license plates are manufactured by local vendors authorized by the government (but not the government itself), but there are no vanity plates on any cars here. I cannot recall in all our years traveling here and around Europe seeing vanity plates from any European country. Although France prizes individualism and creativity, as a society certain rules are expected to be followed and apparently license plate creativity is not the individualism and creativity the society is seeking.

Day old bread sold in France? Quelle horreur!!

The French are notoriously frugal, but not usually when it comes to food. They want fresh everything and that is clear when in France. For example right now in December, they are not shipping in fruit and vegetables from all over the world, like the US where every type of fruit and vegetable seems to be available now year round, just at higher prices. What is for sale is locally grown, although some items will come in from Italy and Spain - so fairly local by European standards. So, for someone to create a business from day-old baguettes is a huge step in French culture - to not throw it out? So, check out this article: http://www.france24.com/en/20121211-french-bakery-old-yesterday-baguette For me, I try to re-purpose our leftovers from extra croissant into croissant french toast (or pan perdu) and taking baguettes, leaving them out for a day or two then using the blender to make fresh bread crumbs (haven't been able to buy bread crumbs here like in the US), trying to make meals from leftovers and so on. Same things I do at home, just better ingredients here.

A more peaceful Provence - fairly tale in Aix

Taking in our trip as it nears the end and we will make our way to Paris on Sunday to spend New Year's eve at a favorite restaurant there. It is much more peaceful here now then in the summer, when it is buzzing with tourists and vacation home owners. It is rare to hear English or other languages, and at night it seems darker on the roads as there are many fewer cars. D.'s car karma is definitely i

mproved without as much traffic, and the country roads are truly that, without other cars pushing us along. The sky last night was so beautiful as clouds cleared and stars came out. We have noticed each town and village we drive through has its own style of decorations, each lovely and charming. The most special has to be in Aix. Last night we were invited to a party in the town center. As we approached the roundabout at Cours Mirabeau, the lights were everywhere, but not in a overwhelming sense, more like something from a Hollywood set, but not even a Hollywood set designer could have made it more beautiful, with a full moon overhead. It was a picture out of a fairy tale, and we felt so fortunate to be her

e and be in that picture. We could not be luckier, especially after the last seven months.

Sheep in Provence

Now I know I already blogged about the Tiger Transport, but today's ride was almost as interesting. After walking the much scaled-down market in Eygalieres and enjoying the shops and people, we were in the 2CV and drove a little past our house toward Biscuits Mistral in St. Andiol. As we approached the roundabout outside Molleges Gare, we see about 200 sheep walking down the road accompanied by two shepherds, one in front, one in back wearing what are likely required reflective vests. The one in front was joined by a dog which he probably needed to round up an errant sheep. Now this is something one doesn't see every day, even in France, or even in farm areas of New Jersey. Having my son with us to experience it was especially fun, particularly after we had already seen the tigers, and now the sheep!! Our future veterinarian was fascinated. And yes, it leads to the question, why did the sheep cross the road? This trip has been meaningful on so many different levels. We have made the most of every day to experience France in the off-season and the holidays and it could not have been better.

Burger King is back in France

Burger King has returned to France - in the Marseilles airport? interesting choice for where to open, but it is certainly a huge crossroads of society in that spot. Very busy with many flights leaving for all over Europe. http://newsfeed.time.com/2012/12/27/oh-la-vache-burger-king-returns-to-france/

Tigers in Avignon

We have had some odd experiences over the years traveling the world, Saturday was another one that was memorable. Driving away from Avignon, on a major street, in fairly nippy weather (40s maybe 50 F) pulled along side of us was a large truck with a cage in the back. The signs read Tiger Transport and sure enough there was a large tiger, in full orange color with stripes, pacing, looking at us and the other cars, maybe wishing he could eat soon. Another large tiger was lying down in an upper more confined cage, contemplating the world outside. A specialty business for sure - Tiger Transport.

The trifecta - the French holy grail

During the last six months we have achieved the French trifecta - the holy grail. For some people, that may have biblical significance, but for us it is all about our French life. To get one is not easy, but three is nearly impossible, particularly as a non-resident. The first we achieved with assistance of a local friend, was purchase of two vehicles, used of course, an alfa romeo break (or wagon) for every day use when we are here. We calculated what we are spending when here on rentals, and realized the purchase would pay for itself within one year. The problem is registering the vehicle. Now that we have a rental home, it definitely makes it easier. It took several visits to the Marie - the town hall, and some back and forth with additional documents, the elusive carte gris was ours. Then, with even more back and forth, forms, and questions, emails, and meetings, we have a bank account in France with the carte blu - the local debit card. Next up, the telepayage - French ezpass. Since we had the bank account, this became the easiest of the three to achieve. Now, we no longer have to play credit card roulette each time we approach a toll on the autoroute. It will change our time here in France, less stress, and feeling more like we really belong here.

Favorite French words

Every so often I learn new French words that speak to my heart: Papillion de nuit - how much nicer way can there be to say moth??? I can't stand moths, as I am always fighting to keep them out of houses in New Jersey and Provence, not wanting them to destroy my clothes. They are horrid little creatures, but in French it just sounds beautiful and charming. Oh well.

Walking the markets

Last summer as we walked the markets, I was so ill. Having just come through major surgery, I came to Provence to heal. Walking was tiring and a huge effort, and took so much energy from me. But each market is special, and I wanted to walk as much as possible, so it became an incentive for me, to walk each day in a different favorite market, to miss nothing and experience everything I could, while I could. Walking the markets each day, getting stronger, and not so tired, and after two weeks to return home ready for chemotherapy, somewhat peaceful, but with the dream of returning to Provence as I have now at the end. So, as I walk the markets on this trip, I see the difference in then versus now, in me and in the people, not hot, not crowded, but energized and grateful.

Changes in St. Remy

As we do each summer, we drive through the town to see what has changed and what remains the same, sadness at losses and closures, but always glad to see new businesses opening up and trying new restaurants. Last summer, we noticed Etik had survived and was improving their menu. The resale shop for furniture had closed and reopened as a bakery, in a spot where no other bakery existed and near a truck stop so maybe this would now survive. Vilebrequin has returned to its shop which had sat empty for about two years, now full of colorful men's bathing suits. As always, Joel Durand, was busy and serving le cube (chocolate covered ice cream). The restaurants were bustling, full of people, eating and drinking, talking and laughing. Joyful at being in Provence. Some things never change and we hope this will always be in Provence.

A conversation about Pickles

Shopping at the Intermarche in St. Remy on Saturday afternoon was an interesting experience. Compared to the US it is so different. We, in every market, have an enormous dairy aisle with milks and butters, eggs, and some yogurts. Here, it is an entire aisle of yogurt. I could not find eggs, it was like a treasure hunt with no hints or clues. We ended up finding eggs at our local epicure. Ground meats are rare, although turkey (dinde) seems to be a meat that is more popular than it has been in France. During my hunt into the aisle with mustard, ketchup and mayo, I found myself standing next to a typical Frenchman, on his cell phone talking probably to his wife discussing his shopping. He was looking at the display of pickles, cornichon, large and small. Apparently his wife wanted something in particular and he knew enough to call and make sure he was getting the correct ones, along with the baguette she wanted. Although after chemo, my French is a bit rusty, and I am struggling, for some reason that piece of dialogue clicked in my brain, but did not buy cornichon.

Christmas Markets

Another Provencal tradition is the christmas markets where people go to purchase local artisan gifts and traditional foods for the holiday meals. On Saturday morning after going to the Avignon flea market, wading through quite a bit of mud and muck to find some odds and ends for the house (nothing goes to waste here in France) which included two night stands, a lovely wall mirror and crocks for coffee tea and sugar (only 35 euro for all of it - negotiating is a must), we headed into Avignon for their market in the town square - centered in the walled city. We had breakfast in a bakery/ice cream shop looking out of the square, then ventured out, including into the town hall (hotel de ville) which contains a provencal christmas tableau. It was pleasant even in the chilly air, but more for tourists and not special for us. In the afternoon when we headed to St. Remy for groceries, we quickly toured to christmas m

arket in the town square there (the main parking lot across from our ice cream shop) where the tents contained all of the local stalls. Many of the vendors were dressed in traditional French country costumes, to add to the festive nature, coffee and treats were served inside, while local people shopped and kissed. Outside were big beautiful horses and a carriage for a ride through town. The market closed on Sunday evening with a bonfire and within hours the tents were gone and everyone had moved on to get ready for Christmas, and the wednesday market. Sunday, when in Isles sur la Sorgue, in addition to the regular Sunday market, there were wooden huts which included the featured holiday items and foods. A pleasant walk through the town this time allowing us to really look at the community and stores (in the summer it is just too hot, too crowded to experience it). In all of the places we've been so far, little English or other languages, almost all French. Also, please make sure to review the posts on Aix for other information and photos- lovely Christmas market on the Cours Mirabeau - walk in the early evening around 5 p.m. so you can ejoy the holiday lights, rides for children, shopping, and people. Fabulous!

French Buzz

Last summer as we sat at Cafe de la Progress in Eygalieres one afternoon, listening and watching, it was like a buzz, like a beehive, full of activity with the worker bees returning from the field to share information about the outside world. That is what the Cafe felt like to us, as we watched the kissing and hugging, the drinking, the conversation, and the table hopping, it was a hive of local people who know each other from winters and summers, from year-round and vacations, and return like lemmings to the same place each day, week or season to share information and energy, the French Buzz. Even in the winter, it is still buzzing in Eygalieres, the same Cafe, kissing and hugging, smoking and drinking, laughter and style continues.

Le Petite Table - Eygalieres

As I was ill last summer, it was difficult for me to contemplate traveling to some of our favorite restaurants, but this one we had seen and not eaten at the previous summer after it opened. It was a really pleasant experience. Set in what used to be a local home, with a small swimming pool, the tables are set in the garden around the pool and patio. There is an interior full dining room, and the bathrooms are very spacious as they used to be actual bathrooms but the showers have been removed. The food was very well-prepared and planned,a more gourmet menu than many local restaurants, service was quite nice and attentive. My dinner included an excellent lobster dish, soup, and a beautifully displayed dessert. Portions were enough but not too much so we did not feel as though we were overeating, even though we ate three courses. We did notice it is open through the holidays, unlike some restaurants here which are season, but we will return either in the spring or next summer. On this trip we are eating more at home, and staying more with bistro-type food.

TGV - a lovely way to travel

Now that we are here in Provence I am catching up on notes I made last summer but was too ill to blog - including the TGV - France's high speed train. D. had taken it several times from Paris to Avignon but I had not yet traveled that way. It is not cheap, but very worthwhile. It is infinitely easier and more relaxing than driving, particularly after flying overnight and arriving early in the morning on NY time. Instead of a seven-hour drive from Paris, we arrive in about 3 hours, more rested as we have nap time on the train, along with toilettes, so we are not losing time to traffic and stopping in rest stops to stretch and use the bathroom. Tickets can be purchased online via SNCF's website. We don't recommend going through others who do sell the tickets because anytime we've tried it, D. runs into problems. Better to go direct even if it costs a little more. First class means a reserved seat which is quite comfortable. Second class is not reserved but still nicer than most US trains, even Amtrak to Washington. As with almost everything French, there is a food car with a very nice menu, including for children, and contains bio (organic) foods. We always notice everyone buying food and walking through the cars with their purchases, smelling very tempting. Naturally, the French include their dogs in all occasions including train travel, and the dogs are everywhere including the aisles and under the seats, always well-behaved. We look forward to Avril joining us on the train next summer.

Provencal Holidays - no christmas sweaters

Like holidays around the world, the winter holiday season in Provence is all about food, and food with cultural symbolism. The 13 desserts arises from the last supper, and the 12 who attended it plus Jesus, so 13 is not considered an unlucky number here. The bouche de noel is all over in each bakery, and even in our favorite ice cream shop in St. Remy as an ice cream cake. When we walked through town yesterday to the cheese shop we decided to drink coffee at the ice cream shop which had just opened at 11:30 a.m. and the locals were already lined up to pick up their orders, pastry, ice cream cake, and other goodies. It was a 12 on a 1-10 people watching scale. The interactions, the style, the response to receiving their orders. Not significantly different then the US, but with more style, and calmer. The decorations here are pleasant, subtle, and not overpowering. Santa is almost no where to be found, and haven't seen any reindeer - no Rudolph, and very importantly - no Christmas sweaters!

Gratitude

As always this time of year, we can look back and review the last twelve months and my family and I have been through so much. As always, working hard to pay bills so we can afford to travel and experienced the world. But this year was especially difficult, since June, fighting my way to recover from major surgery and cancer treatment, and the effects it has had on my husband and son, clients, and friends. It is an experience that makes one grateful for everything and nothing all at the same time. Arriving here in Provence I feel tremendous joy to be here, and experience a different season in Provence, to add a little something to our lives which we all need so much after the trials we have shared until now. The sky today, although a little overcast, was still beautiful, colorful, but softer, the scenery lovely and green, although not as lush as the summer, and even more peaceful and serene without the hustle of push of summer tourism. The style is not unlike New York, sweaters, jeans, boots, much black clothing, but for most people always a scarf with style. The food is already noticeably more seasonal, without the same fresh fruit and produce we enjoy all summer. Clearly, not shipping in fruit from around the world, just eating what is produced more locally and seasonally. Many seasonal treats related to the holidays, be it nougat, dried fruit, special breads and desserts including bouche noel (which we will be enjoying for tonight's dessert), and so much more. We are so fortunate to be here and to share this experience with all of you readers!!

US Airways via Philadelphia - excellent travel

We left Thursday night from Philadelphia, with about 30 minutes of traffic near the airport we were a little concerned as we entered the terminal about clearing security on time. We picked Phili because since Sandy, JFK is rather difficult to get through, and Air France is no longer flying from Newark. Continental/United was very expensive, and US Air had very reasonable prices for the season. Despite our worries, it was amazing, the nicest airline and TSA staff of any airport we have traveled through in several years. We were through with time to spare. Very easy check-in for an international flight. TSA staff was pleasant and professional, especially given my medical situation. Airline staff allowed me to board early with no problems. S. commented that as airline food goes, the food was pretty good (I almost never eat on a plane other than a bagel I bring with me). Seats were comfortable. An overall A+ travel experience.

French trends for holidays 2012

Here's a blog about trends for the holidays in France - two books would love to have on my sony reader but are not there yet, as well as movies to watch for and how Fifty Shades of Grey did in translation (not my kind of book) - travel to Tunisia - getting my mind in a France state: http://josephbamat.blogs.france24.com/article/2012/12/20/france-consumer-trends-2012-best-selling-most-sold-films-car-music--0

Groupon.fr - tips

We have subscribed to groupon in france since summer 2011 and watch it regularly to see if there are worthwhile restaurant groupons. Sometimes yes, sometimes no. Suggestions include being very careful. Look at restaurant menu on line to ensure that it is a good deal, as sometimes it isn't. Take a look at reviews in tripadvisor to see if it is a restaurant that interests you, in the right location, so you are not wasting money. On this trip, for example, we want to remain flexible, depending on how I feel, weather, when we want to cook versus eat out, so groupons are not high on our priority list. We've had some good luck here in NJ with groupons, including the daily ones which you have to use that day for a quick inexpensive lunch or dinner. But these are restaurants we know in towns we know and are convinced it is a good deal. So, as an overall statement, groupon can be a good deal, with proper research and planning.

Almost there - le reve de Provence

For us, not for everyone, this is the dream, the life or lifestyle, the place, the scents, the food, the colors, particularly in the summer. In only a few days, after a long six months of medical treatment, we will be on the plane, flying back to our dream, but for the holidays. We are so looking forward to being in our home there, to walking the markets, to enjoying the differences of summer versus winter with clothes, food, colors, and people - pure pleasure for us. The people watching should be fabulous - our favorite spectator sport. I am reading my favorite French real estate publications to get my mind back into the language and have already packed, trying to keep it simple of course - just carry on and a coat. Poor Avril will not be joining us as the trip is too short, but she will have a great time at her pet hotel and she will return to her country in June. Bon voyage!!

A McBagel in France?

It sounds so weird, a burger on a bagel. Apparently, McDonald's is following its burger on a baguette with a burger on a bagel, rather than with a schmeer and some lox (they definitely have smoked salmon in France). Using English names too. We'll be there soon so D. may have to sample one and report for me, as I haven't eaten a burger since 1978, and I don't plan on stating now. http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/11/30/mcdonalds-bagel-burgers-france_n_2217901.html

Autolib in Paris

We will be there soon - for New Year's and this is something to consider - eco9friendly, and euro-friendly ie economical: http://www.post-gazette.com/stories/business/auto-news/buzzing-around-paris-in-borrowed-electric-cars-663615/

New public ashtrays in Paris - brilliant

Will New York be next? I always think the butts everywhere are filthy but wasn't thinking about the additional pollution to the water supply that this article discusses, and the drainage problems. It is amazing how many people still smoke regardless of cost. I always remember how we could buy cigarettes from vending machines for 50 cents per pack, almost anywhere. Now, no vending machines anywhere, and costs are 500 times greater - all positive. http://worldcrunch.com/culture-society/check-out-paris-039-10-000-new-public-ashtrays.-but-will-french-smokers-even-bother-/c3s10201/#.UKvh3ByUrQo

Returning soon to Europe

Tickets booked, beginning to plan our trip for December in Provence. Traveling through Philadelphia turned out to be the best and least expensive way for the three of us, less Avril this trip. She will enjoy the pet hotel and come home exhausted. During my dark days since coming home in July, fatigue and exhaustion set in but what kept me going was the Provence dream - returning to our home and seeing good friends after a hard six months of illness and treatment. Can't say I'll be walking far and wide but just being in the environment will be healing. Glad to see that it should be warmer there then here, and that for the first time I really have clothes there and should not have to bring much except odds and ends along with the beautiful blankets and needlepoints I have been making during my treatment to keep me going and feel productive. More Joel Durand and special treats, a different flavor of Provence for the holidays as opposed to the summer and the high tourist season.

Retirement properties for under 100k in Europe

interesting article, with some spots we don't know but may have to explore highlighting communities where you can purchase less expensive real estate. one always does have to factor in cost of living, health insurance, your ability to speak the language and communicate etc. : http://finance.yahoo.com/news/5-retirement-havens-europe-less-203203450.html

Tour de France Route 2013- includes Provence

We are excited to see this year's route as we haven't been able to attend for several years as the routes took the race too far away. This year the route looks like smack in the middle of Provence, near Aix and through Marseille. Thrilling for us to spend a few hours watching the advertisers' parade so we can see the few seconds with the actual racers whiz by speeding so fast it is quite amazing to watch: http://www.guardian.co.uk/sport/graphic/2012/oct/24/tour-de-france-2013-route-map

French teens get free birth control

Interesting article about a proposal to allow French teen girls age 15-18 to get the pill for free. Definitely not happening in the US - too logical. http://www.france24.com/en/20121024-french-teenagers-get-contraceptive-pill-free-social-security-women-france-pregnancy

Sales of classic French t-shirt soar

After French Minister of Industry wears it on magazine cover to promote a new "made in France" campaign: http://www.france24.com/en/20121023-french-snap-sexy-stripy-sailor-t-shirt-government-minister-arnaud-montebourg-sales-increase

French national food show

Just took place with many new ideas for healthy interesting eating. Can't wait to go -maybe next year. Seriously - lobster oil? http://www.france24.com/en/20121024-raw-ingredients-ethical-sourcing-innovation-sial-food-fair-exposition-paris-gastronomy

Paris real estate at the top end

Since the new president is trying to significantly raise taxes on the wealthiest in France, many are considering relocating themselves and their money outside the country, leading to possible real estate market changes: http://finance.yahoo.com/news/frances-rich-tax-deals-paris-183845732.html

Art shows in Paris 2012-2013

Nice article about current exhibits in Paris this fall/winter. Hoping to be well enough to travel soon and see: http://www.english.rfi.fr/visiting-france/20120831-art-exhibitions-paris-autumn-winter-2012

A tale of two cities - Marseilles

Article worth reading from NPR regarding serious crime issues in Marseilles, making the city a high priority for the Hollande government: http://www.npr.org/2012/09/23/161012701/poverty-segregation-fuel-marseille-crime-wave

Paris Sale dates 2013

Getting ready to shop in Paris after the holidays?: Here's the dates. The 2013 winter sales in Paris will start January 9 to end February 12, 2013. The 2013 summer sales will begin June 29 and last until July 30, 2013

French incivility

When we are in France we generally have a positive experience and find people very polite, but with a different sense of spatial orientation - i.e. sense of personal space. Sometimes driving can be a challenge, but generally we find the French people to be polite. But maybe we need to ride mass transit more, as the French complain about each other and incivility. So, the government is entering into a campaign to improve politeness, especially on mass transit - this would definitely never happen in the USA: http://www.france24.com/en/20120723-france-fights-back-against-bad-manners-rude-campaign-paris-metro

A rare and special estate sale

I apologize to you readers for not posting much while I am ill, but I am still dreaming of France and planning travel for as soon as I am well enough. But here is a fabulous article about the estate sale of the former French President d'Estaing - wishing we could be there as I am sure this will be fascinating: http://www.thedailybeast.com/newsweek/2012/09/23/france-s-valery-giscard-d-estaing-auctions-off-auvergne-estate.html

Possible increase in taxes for French vacation homes

For both those who own properties and rent them out, and for those buying and selling a vacation home, although some EU legal experts say it is against the law as discriminatory to non-French residents. Interesting to see how this one turns out, who challenges it and how the legal process winds through to its conclusion. http://www.france24.com/en/20120813-france-gives-green-light-holiday-home-tax-hike

Canicule - French heat wave

In the US we had the hottest summer on record, and in France it's not looking much better. 109F in some southern French departments! With heat warnings including in Paris, especially after the heat wave in 2003 where so many people died. The word for heat wave in France is Canicule. http://www.france24.com/en/20120817-france-weather-government-ministry-health-braces-heat-wave-canicule-prevention-measures

French Riviera Article

Good article for an introduction to the Cote D'Azur hitting the highlights, so if you want glitz, glamour, and have to money and desire to rush to keep up with the "beautiful" people, this is for you: http://www.cnn.com/2012/08/09/travel/savoring-south-of-france/index.html?hpt=hp_bn10

Cup holder conundrum

It seems to be a very American requirement to have cup holders in our cars for our waters, coffees, and sodas. When traveling in Europe, we realize it is something we truly take for granted in a vehicle sold in America. The only questions would be where are they, how big are they, and what size drinks they could hold comfortably? For me the questions is whether my starbucks carafe for my coffee will fit in it. Jeep yes, Mercedes or Volvo, no. That said, in purchasing cars this year in France, we immediately noticed the difference. While we love our Alfa Romeo Break (wagon), it is a much more stripped down sporty vehicle then we have in the US, and it definitely is lacking cup holders. Naturally, as always, this got me researching the importation of the adorable Fiat, and found that it had to be Americanized for importation, not just for emissions, but including a console with cup holders. The conundrum in France will be can we get used to no cup holders for our water bottles, or do we retrofit? I suspect by next summer we will figure it all out.

Where do europeans go to escape the crowds?

How that the Olympics are ready to start tomorrow in London, and tourists are spreading out through Europe, where do the Europeans travel? Germany, Sweden, Croatia and yes, naturally Provence. Here's a link with some lovely spots: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/departures-magazine/secret-european-summer-ge_b_1699981.html#slide=1275019

Drinking age in France.

While traveling earlier this month, D. and I were noticing young people who were at least 16 sitting in cafes socializing but not drinking alcohol, so it got us discussing the current drinking age in France. I was aware that previously it had always been age 16, but it was raised in 2011 to age 18 with France's efforts to combat drinking problems in its society, and working to change the French culture where families are allowing children to drink in their homes as young as age 12. http://www.npr.org/blogs/health/2011/12/12/143521104/french-lessons-why-letting-kids-drink-at-home-isn-t-tres-bien

XL Airways - A hidden French experience

Since our summer plans were disrupted due to my illness, our tickets for France changed and became too expensive. Poor Avril would be left in the kennel we decided, as our journey would be too short to stress her by traveling, and I was too ill to have her with me in the markets and restaurants. But I recalled an article I read about XL Airways and new flights in the US to Paris, from Vegas and SFO. I did not know this airline existed, but I did my usual research and found that it is about 16 years old, based in Paris, and provides seasonal flights from US to Paris in the summer, and then shifts toward Morocco and other spots in the winter. Miraculously, we were able to get two seats from JFK to Paris, at a fairly reasonable price given how late we were purchasing the tickets. We arrived at JFK to travel, the plane leaves at almost midnight. We had ordered a wheelchair for me. And it was quick to arrive as there are no seats in the terminal near the check-ins. Our only difficulty was a manager who insisted we check a bag we intended to carry on, which required an emergent re-arranging of its contents into other bags. Luckily, as always, I had thrown in my favorite pink Longchamp shopping/plage bag, and we loaded it with items we did not want to be checked in the bag. The manager was unhappy but we prevailed. The wheelchair service was a blessing as we zipped through a lengthy security line which normally would have taken at least on hour to clear. Although the plane was delayed by two hours, we boarded quickly once it arrived and was ready, and were on our way. Although the coach seats were narrow, the plane was clean, the staff all French and quite pleasant, and nearly all the passengers were French. The food was nothing special and there was one movie (quite old by about 8 years), and cartoons for the children, but we were able to sleep for several hours. Upon arrival, we were so pleased to find a wheelchair waiting for me just outside the plane doors, and a pleasant young man, who whisked me through customs, and once D. had our one check-in bag, was able to take me through the airport to the TGV station and the Sheraton. Although we had missed our train due to the plane delay, D. was able to get tickets rescheduled for the next train to Avignon, a three hour journey instead of 7 via auto. We slept more, and arrived at our destination without stress or worry, especially given my condition, it was a miracle.

Bread Quest 2012

As always, we have spent some time exploring both new boulangeries and old, as our new house is in a different location, closer to Eygalieres and St. Remy, rather than in St. Andiol. Although that was a lovely spot, this is a bit more central to where we like to be, closer to our farm stand, the cheese shop, the potager, yes it all revolves around food. And so, the bread quest of 2012 began, with a visit to the closest, in Molleges Gare (not bad), several in Eygalieres and St. Remy (also very good) as well as Senas near the winery (very good), but once again D. returned to Cap Sud the shopping mall in Avignon to the closest outlet for Javaud, which still wins the bread quest, and even the deserts hands down. It is something about the refined texture and taste of the bread, and even the pastry is wonderful, not too heavy but full of fruit or chocolate or whatever you prefer. The staff is always pleasant and knowledgeable, the store immaculate, and full of special items for gifts and home. Whenever possible we try to get to the mother ship in Carpentras but not on this trip. December. I always dream of the summers in Provence, but this year, it will be the return in December.

An abbreviated journey

Since we could only be here for just over two weeks, and we were setting up a new house, me recuperating from surgery, trying to relax all at the same time, it truly forced us to consider what we really want to do each day. Where to go? What matters, since we can't get in our rhythm of the summer. So much that we will miss since there is something to do every day if you wish to do it. So, a must was a visit to Isles sur la Sorgue for the Sunday market, early, to find my dressing table which I have used every day since. No Wednesday is complete without a visit to the St. Remy market, be it to get cheese at my favorite vendor, to the spice vendor for gifts to bring home, to say hello to my scarf lady, Kim, or just to wander and watch the crowds and the dogs. My favorite last week was a woman on her scooter, riding along with her husband strolling behind her and her dog sitting comfortable on her lab surveying the other dogs below. Friday's market in Eygalieres, to find a truffle for cooking, to buy La Fabresse oil (again the winner for 2012) and to get Paella for lunch which was wonderful. We had always passed by the Paella vendor and watched the locals line up for his food. This year we promised ourselves we would join the crowd and we did. The food was fresh and tasty. Although we can eat Paella in Newark in the Iron Bound, this was far superior. A trip to Aix was also a must, to hit Monoprix for the sale, finding housewares for our new home, and clothing, gifts, Target for France. Last night, an ice cream for dinner at our favorite spot in St. Remy, complete with driving our very own blue Citroen 2CV, a car that brings smiles and waves from the French as well as the tourists, and which friends have nicknamed the "blue beast." It is simple, yet charming and has its own personality, similar to D. just wants to go at his own pace, letting others pass him by if necessary, without notice as he chugs his way to find the bread for this year's bread quest, or just wants to meander to nowhere. A few more days left and a few restaurants to eat in, a little more shopping and walking, then our early return home. But we will return in December for Noel.

Thankful to be here once again

For those of you who know me privately, you will know what the last few weeks has been for me, with significant health problems. So, our trip was delayed and shortened, and the summer we planned is not to be. But, with some great effort and medical clearance, we were allowed to travel for a short time until I have to return for medical care. That said, I am incredibly grateful to be here, to see the place we love so much, to enjoy our new home and participate in organizing it, and planning our future in it. As always, we find such peace and serenity when we are here, as we wander through our journey, and rediscover Provence each time, as well as ourselves. So, for however long or short we are here, we remain grateful, and we prioritize our trip, seeing the people we care about, and just going to our favorite spots, probably nothing new this year, just recreating the old. Today's was our favorite cheese shop and Marius Fabre. What could be bad. All is right with the world.

Yes, we have charcoal briquettes in France!

Thanks to a valued reader and comment from last summer, D. did expand his shopping repertoire to include Castorama in Avignon where, magically, he was able to purchase real, authentic charcoal briquettes. So, our first barbecue took place this evening in Provence, a day late as it was not July 4, but still lovely. Had some shrimp on the barbie along with sausage and steaks, homemade caponata (a tapenade), salad, and our favorite bread and goat cheese with fig for dessert. Perfection. And once again, we agreed, that we will no longer search to replicate that perfection in New York or New Jersey. While we can find good, we can't find perfect. And with me ill and our energies limited, we will spend our time and energy returning yet again to where we know perfection is available down the Napoleonic road, through the trees, and around the bend, into le reve.

French women and love

Here is link to interesting interview. Not sure what the subject's basis for her knowledge is, as it is not set forth in the interview. Not sure that I agree with all of what she says, but it is food for thought, as opposed to real French food: http://yahoo.match.com/y/article.aspx?articleid=12156&TrackingID=526103&BannerID=1362556

Most beautiful drives in Europe

Nice article with photos from Yahoo travel. Not sure that I agree with the rankings but certain agree that drives along Amalfi Coast in Italy and the three Corniche roads in southern France must be included. It is hard to pick the best drives because there are so many that are beautiful, but list is a good starting point: http://travel.yahoo.com/ideas/europe-s-10-prettiest-drives.html;_ylt=An137IpRJ5frxQwPdrndKAPc6cB_;_ylu=X3oDMTIwM2czczls

Can ancient vines be a national treasure? The French say oui!

Can't imagine that a cow or a vine would be declared a national treasure in the US, but in France, their heritage is so important, especially these ancient vines which are the only original ones left in France after a blight destroyed so many. http://www.vancouversun.com/life/French+classify+ancient+vines+national+treasure/6843474/story.html

Cancer treatment in France

Definitely not like the USA, coordinated care, less stressful, more comprehensive, and not having to pay because you have paid into the system via taxes. Note, in the article, France is number one for industrialized countries, US is last. http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=92362918

Weight Loss in France - Jenny Craig et al

Sorry haven't posted for a little while due to illness but I'm back. It's nice to know that even French women do worry about their weight. So, it's interesting to find that Jenny Craig is making some significant inroads in France along with Weight Watchers which has about 1500 meetings per week. Naturally, to make it in France, Jenny Craig has had to up its game and improve its food, making it more palatable for the picky eaters in France. Bon Appetit: http://www.nytimes.com/2012/06/10/magazine/can-jenny-craig-conquer-france.html?pagewanted=all

School buses in France

Driving my son to school this morning it was as if I was seeing a swarm of bumble bees flitting around on their daily rounds, with great purpose, as I maneuvered through the big yellow school buses traversing their routes and the traffic to find their way to the schools. Naturally, it made me consider whether the French engage in such organized chaos, and so comes this post with the link to an article about just this, who gets a bus, until what age etc.: http://www.french-property.com/guides/france/public-services/school-education/operation/school-transport/ But the article does not say whether the buses are yellow. Interesting question - what is the origin of the yellow school buses in the US? Any comments?

Food Trucks in Paris - a la New York

A new food trend in Paris actually imported from the US and described in this article from the NY Times, who knew Brooklyn would become so chic - as you will see in the article, "tres Brooklyn" has become a new term for hot imports from NY: http://www.nytimes.com/2012/06/04/world/europe/food-trucks-add-american-flavor-to-paris.html

Best car show in Europe

In Italy on Lake Como, worth attending, looks like some amazing cars for those of us who love classic and unusual cars: http://autos.yahoo.com/blogs/motoramic/touring-world-most-exclusive-collector-car-show-concorso-105556661.html

A Rash of French Suicides

Horrible story from the weekend which was also a holiday weekend in France regarding a rash of suicides by train, not the most peaceful way to die, and the belief that they may be in some way connected. One person killed himself with his 19 month old son. It was also interesting to note that France has a high rate of suicide 16 out of 1000. ttp://www.france24.com/en/20120529-unprecedented-wave-railway-suicides-france-trains-sncf-copycat-police Surprisingly, the US has a very low suicide rate, about 12 out of 100,000.

For those who love a cold class of Rose' in the summer

As I do not drink alcohol it is not the article for me, but it is interesting for those like D. who can enjoy a cold class of Rose' with a meal on a hot Provencal day. That said, the restaurant in Cassis sounds worthwhile: http://www.travelandleisure.com/articles/provence-its-transportive-rose-wine/1

Department of Gers, the home of Armagnac

As always, the New York Times never fails to have a great France article, including some obscure places. Here's the latest about the Department of Gers, where Armagnac originates: http://www.nytimes.com/2012/05/18/t-magazine/farm-fraiche-in-the-southwest-of-france.html?pagewanted=all

Buying a French hamlet - followup

As I reported a few months ago, a small French hamlet or village was for sale for about 1.2 million for a willing and qualified buyer. Ultimately, the village was re-possessed by the bank when the owner defaulted on his loans, and put up for auction ultimately selling for $700,000. The new owner will be a South Korean artist who wants to experiment with sustainability in a communal setting. I hope this ends up being a boon to the 150 residents as it sounds like they need some economic assistance. http://www.france24.com/en/20120522-rural-france-hamlet-auctioned-off-south-korean-artist-vi

Retiring in France

Another article about Paul and Bearn region of France as an excellent and inexpensive place to retire, even for Americans. http://finance.yahoo.com/news/retire-french-countryside-budget-173557017.html

Fishing in France

During the last year we've become fascinated by Jeremy Wade and his show "River Monsters" on Animal Planet. As a child, D. loved fishing, including fishing on Lake Como and numerous other spots in Europe. I have done some fishing in the Florida Keys and deep water fishing off Cape Cod. Although we are animal lovers, until watching Jeremy Wade, I was never truly thinking about fish (other than Sharks or piranha ) as predators in a true sense like alligators, but they truly are. Wade travels around the world showing us the predators living in our rivers, showing fish that is the stuff of nightmares, but fascinating. Naturally, this got us discussing the summer and whether we could try some French fishing and where to go. Fortunately, I have found some good info about where to go and what to fish for in France, as well as permit requirements. One spot we will try is near us, the Sorgues river that flows through Illes sur la Sorgue, and involves fishing for Grayling and Trout. http://www.go-to-france.co.uk/pages/fishing.htm Here is the link which explains the fishing permits, note the difference in the cost for a woman's annual permit, just a little sexist: http://www.french-property.com/news/french_life/fishing_permit_right_france/

A shoe survey

So did you ever wonder who buys more shoes - American or French women? and what do they buy? Here's the survey that answers all the important shoe questions, because "need" when it comes to shoes is a relative term as I always say to D. when he asks me do you really need another pair of shoes: http://worldcrunch.com/europe-womens-shoe-style-choices-reflect-national-identities/5351

Kabuki dance at an Indian restaurant

Last week one evening, D. was completely obsessed with Indian food. He loves it and we usually eat at Tandoor Oven in NYC, but he had recently had a restaurant tip for Star of India in Kenilworth and we decided to go to an early dinner. We arrived before 6 p.m. and the place was empty except for a bizarre grouping of people. The owners and their family members and staff, all Indian, watching, helping, and directing, two young Hispanic men, trying to take down old dirty drapes and hang new clean ones for mother's day events they were hosting. We sat down in the back away from the goings on, and ordered what turned out to be an above average meal. D. had his back to the crowd in the front while I sat and watched, as people walked back and forth with curtain rods and much dialogue ensued between and among them all. It was an odd stylized Kabuki dance, as the two men conversed in Spanish, the Indians conversed in Hindi, and then they tried to mutually communicate in English to discuss the drapes and how they were being hung. Fascinating and entertaining unintended people watching. D. is now obsessed with the term Kabuki dance and how to use it, rather than just Indian food.

Value of the Euro

As you may have already noticed, the Euro value has continue to Decline further the last few days (at about 1.27 against the dollar) as Greece prepares for new elections yet again, and cannot find a compromise for their economic problems. The expectation from what I am reading seems to be that it may pull out of using the Euro and return to the drachma at a vastly devalued ratio. Thus, many Greeks are engaging in a run on the banks, pulling out Euros which will remain at a higher value than the reinstated drachma. Not a good scenario for Greece or the EU, and especially for the Greek people. It is amazing to consider that the Euro has been in use only ten years (June 2, 2002 was commencement date) and is already in such distress. Conceptually, the Euro and the EU are brilliant ideas to create a bigger more unified economy, eliminate work restrictions between countries, eliminate border controls and so on. The reality has been more difficult, especially since the economic crash. The only bright spot now is for we who travel from outside the EU, to the EU countries who use the Euro and perhaps this summer with a better exchange rate.

Mother's Day in France - La Fete des Meres

If you haven't celebrated Mother's Day today, you can do it again, French style on June 3. Usually, it is celebrated on the last Sunday of May, unless Pentecost is celebrated that day, as it is this year, then it is moved to the first Sunday in June. Mother's day in France apparently dates to Napolean's times with updates over the years. After WWI, it was promoted heavily including awards to French women with large families to repopulate the country after the war's heavy losses. By 1950, the current form of the holiday began to be celebrated, in ways similar to the US where mother's receive flowers and cakes, and children are even encouraged to write poetry. No, mom should also be served rather than cook dinner. My holiday usually consists of breakfast in bed made by husband and son, pancakes, flowers, etc. bon appetite.

Tornado in France

Here's a link to photos of rare F1 tornado in France near Toulouse from last week, May 2, 2012. Very rare but apparently increasing due to climate change: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/05/02/tornado-france-f1-toulouse-video_n_1471218.html

Reclaiming citizenship in an EU country. Difficult.

D. and I were discussing last night the possibility of reclaiming heritage from our respective families and their countries of origin. We've been recently enjoying the show on PBS "Finding your Roots" with Dr. Henry Louis Gates Jr., a truly beautiful show which is also very educational at the same time about science and DNA, as well as our country's history and the history of the countries we all came from. It got us talking about what we know, what we want to know, and what we could prove if asked about where we came from. D.'s family mythology suggests Germany, Poland, Lithuania, and possibly Russia. He does have some cousins who have been in Paris since WWII. Mine is mostly Russia (Belarus) and one part which, depending on the year, people did not know what country they lived in because the borders were continually changing due to wars and resulting treaties. So, we began researching whether you can achieve citizenship in an EU country based on heritage and ancestry. I found one comprehensive website with many links that was quite helpful. Looks like possibilities for Lithuania but not from Germany or Poland, as both of D.'s parents were born in US, while grandparents were born there. For my family, it is likely even more difficult to prove as all of my grandparents were born in the US, although some of their siblings were born overseas. http://livingingreece.gr/2008/03/18/how-to-acquire-eu-citizenship-through-ancestry-or-naturalization/ Still, interesting to research the different laws and requirements of each country, as being an EU citizen has so many benefits now to live and to work.

an unmarried French President

Another difference between the US and France is our beliefs that our Presidents should be married with children, that their morality within their marriage will suggest their morality in office. This is likely the more modern view, not the view of the JFK or FDR days, but certainly arising from our Puritan origins. Thus, it is with interest that we are going to see what Francois Holllande does with his "partner" of several years as he travels the world. Apparently, it does present substantial protocol problems depending on where he is going. http://www.france24.com/en/20120509-diplomatic-headache-unmarried-hollande As far as I can see he has never been married, but had four children with Segolene Royal, who previously ran for President against Sarkozy. His current partner, Valerie Treirweller, is twice divorced. America is definitely not ready for this level of sophistication in how we view our political leaders. Just look at Francois Mitterand and his long-term mistress with whom he had a daughter. Would never fly in US political circles.

John Stewart with questions about the French

Very fun bit. Always love Pepe le Pew, but he probably is a bit of a stalker: http://tpmdc.talkingpointsmemo.com/2012/05/jon-stewart-france-questions.php?ref=fpnewsfeed

Provence Real Estate - perhaps a good time to buy.

Speaking last week with a real estate firm located squarely in provence in St. Remy. John Stephenson at Knight Frank (knightfrank.com), a British firm but one who is very knowledgeable about high-end Provence real estate market. John correctly predicted the French election outcome, and also informed me that the market in Provence has improved. Meaning that sellers have become more realistic about pricing and are more motivated to move their properties. So, for those who are looking, this may be the summer to buy, especially if the Euro softens a little further against the dollar. As expected today, it has decreased slightly, down to 1.3 or so, sometimes dipping down to 1.29. Here's hoping it drops further before the summer so we can stretch our dollars in the markets and during the sale. Planning and dreaming with departure about six weeks away. We'll be using the blog and twitter this summer so you can follow us, just look for Avril.

Terms Limits in France

While attending my high school reunion saturday evening, a classmate and I were discussing the concept of term limits for politicians. Although for many years I did not believe in them, as I believed we could just vote the bums out, my view has changed due to the excessive amounts of money now found in American politics. Fortunately, we do have the 2-term constitutional limit on the Presidency. Naturally, that got D. and I discussing whether the French had term limits. Smartly, they do. The French President can serve two consecutive five years terms. Meaning that he/she can serve 10 years, then take five off and run again, while the US President is barred from running again for another full term, and cannot serve as Vice President. Ah, as the political wheels turn.

lightning fast French Presidency transition

Unlike the US where the transition from one to the next President is a three month dragged out affair based upon the slow travel times of nearly 250 years ago, the French transition is lightning fast. Hollande was elected on Sunday May 6, and will be sworn in on May 14, only one week of transition, for Sarkozy to move out of the Presidential palace in Paris, and for Hollande to appoint his cabinet ministers etc. This would never happen in the US, we go through vetting and floating names, and background checks, and congressional confirmation, and so on. We have people that the President appointed who still have not been confirmed for judgeships and other critical jobs. So, maybe another lesson we can learn from the EU countries, that the people's business comes first?

Adieu Sarko

And so we bid adieu to Sarkozy, "sarko" as he is nicknamed in France, losing a close race with only a 4% margin, 51 for Hollande and 48 for Sarkozy. And bienvenue to Francois Hollande. The first socialist elected since 1995 when Miterrand was president. Watch the euro on Monday as between this and the Greek parliamentary elections, the markets could be a wild ride. http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/05/06/france-elections-2012-hollande-beats-sarkozy_n_1489482.html

Musings on reusable shopping bags and the French

Recently on Earth Day, I began thinking back to my childhood here in suburban NJ, in a family who believed in recycling in the 1970s, glass, newspapers, plastic, but a major user of paper shopping bags, reams of them with a family of at least six. Then, in 1977 when I first traveled to Europe I saw people shopping in Paris with the famous string bags and thought it interesting but didn't really make the connection to recycling. By 1989 or so, the old catalogue company Lillian Vernon was selling sets of the string bags and I ventured into using my first reusable bags. They lasted several years, and while living in LA, I purchased even more bags, cotton, that I still use today 20 years later, but have added more. Unfortunately in that time, the French adopted the American style of plastic bags and they began to be everywhere, in the stores, markets, and even in the local farmer's markets. But, now, the tide has turned and people are again returning to reusable bags, in part by government dictate. So, to go to a supermarket, bring your shopping bags in France, otherwise you are going to pay for the bags you need. That said, I've done a rough calculation of how many plastic bags that have not been put in a landfill in about 25 years of using reusable bags, can you believe it is easily about 4500?? Put down your plastic, and remember to take your bags to the store!

Fast Passport Renewal - kudos to State Dept.

A few weeks ago, my son's passport was up for renewal. I always think that being without a passport is like being a man without a country, you can't travel, especially places we want to go. So, with much effort, I put together all the documents required for a child whose parents are divorced and whose father refuses to sign the forms, the required court orders, and official documents demonstrating that he and I are who we claim to be, the updated photograph, and checks. The local post office was very organized, and was happy that I had brought originals plus copies, and they were ready for us and our appointment. As always, we paid for the expedite fee, and sent it off, thinking it would take several weeks to see the new passport. So, over the next few days I began to watch the passport website to see the status but found nothing, as if the documents had never arrived. I was nervous, because five years ago it took weeks to get it back and required phone calls about the court orders, and fear that it would not arrive in time for us to travel. But then, miraculously, the new passport arrived on our doorstep - only seven days from when it was sent out. Amazing. truly. Great job State Department. You've really come a long way.

World's Best Restaurants 2012

Some new French restaurants to researched culled from this list of the world's top 50 restaurants - at least 7 from France: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/04/30/worlds-50-best-restaurants-2012_n_1464035.html#s919221&title=1_Noma_Copenhagen

Van Gogh in Provence - A tour

In contemplating art, I have always enjoyed Van Gogh. Long before I ever set foot in Provence, Arles and St. Remy, I recall a wonderful show at the Philadelphia Museum of Art, Van Gogh in Arles. Although I had seen paintings at various museums in a piecemeal fashion, I had not seen so many of his work in one place. When I had visited Amsterdam in 1977, the Van Gogh museum was closed for renovation. Years later, in a return trip to Amsterdam, I was overjoyed to show my son the museum. As always, he noticed a critical work that was not there, one he had studied in kindergarten - Starry Night. Upon our return to NYC, we made sure to visit the Modern Museum of Art where it resides. Even today, he has a Van Gogh print hanging over his bed purchased in Amsterdam, the one of the yellow bedroom with the small bed against the wall, depicting his bedroom in Provence, while painting his greatest works. Each summer, as we drive through Provence we again share the same scenery, the sunflowers and lavender that have inspired so many artists, Van Gogh to Cezanne, Picasso to Brayer, we feel so fortunate to be there and grateful to share our journeys with you our readers and those we help tour Provence. So as you follow this blog, please contact us if you are interested in touring with us. Visit Arles, and St. Remy, tour the asylum where Van Gogh was hospitalized and where patients still paint as therapy and sell their works. Summer 2012 is now closed and booked, but we can begin planning 2013. Bon voyage!

Making sense of Euro value v. the dollar

Since its inception, I have been tracking the value of the Euro against the dollar. Sometimes it makes sense and others, like now, it definitely does not. Here is the US economy growing slowly at 2%, technically not in a recession, yet the Euro is maintaining its value at 1.30 or so against the dollar. This is true even while Ireland, Spain, Greece and Italy are essentially bankrupt, the EU member states economies are not growing at all or at most .8% (like Germany). While US unemployment is starting to decline as may shortly be below 9%, Spain hit 22.8% at end of last year and could rise to 25%. So, even while we are borrowing money to stay afloat, certain EU countries are borrowing more at much higher interest rates. Thus, the currency values make no sense at all. The dollar should be stronger against the Euro. Perhaps it can be attributed to speculation? Will continue my research and add.

An exceptional meal at Barbuto -NYC

To enjoy the lovely weather, we ventured into NYC yesterday afternoon to walk around SOHO, shop at Uniqlo, and ultimately make our way to Chef Jonathan Waxman's Barbuto for an early dinner. As is often the case, the Chef was there overseeing operations and greeting many regular patrons. As always, a Saturday night there is packed, full of interesting people of all ages. No, it isn't a fancy restaurant with table cloths, the design is original and industrial. The walls are made from garage doors and so, on a day like yesterday, the walls just open up and voila, we are outside but inside. The food, as always was exceptional. If we usually judge our meals on a 1 to 10 scale, with 10 being the highest, my salad was a 10, my roast chicken was a 12, as was D.'s pasta, our crispy potatoes a 14, and our desert, a semi-freddo (similar to an ice cream), was a 15. So many times we eat at a nice restaurant and find the deserts so disappointing and not worth the calories. But whenever this is on the menu, we order it and it is always wonderful. We eat all over the world, but there is only one place in NYC where we feel as though we are eating food cooked with love and care, and by someone with a true European flare.

Don't publish exit polls too early in France or it will cost you

With the first round of French voting on Sunday, it is interesting to learn that in France, there are stringent rules on publishing exit poll results before the polls have closed in the major cities like Paris, which is not until 8 p.m. Polls close in smaller towns and villages at 6 p.m. Violators risk fines of 75,000 euro (about $100,000) - some major money these days. Those subject to the fines can include social media outlets and individuals. The most fascinating part of the rules allow the candidates to challenge the vote result if the exit polling is published early and influences voters, thereby possibly invalidating an election. So, don't mess with the French election process. Oh, and by the way, not looking good for Sarkozy, Hollande is the current favorite. http://www.france24.com/en/20120419-french-elections-exit-polls-law-ban-prosecute-liberation-hollande-sarkozy

Best hotel views in the world

Naturally Paris in the nix - the Shangri La Hotel in a particular suite,(not one that we know but we'll look at) and the Hotel Intercontinental in Hong Kong. That is a hotel we know of, have eaten dinner there, but prefer the other side of Kowloon looking across the harbor at the Marco Polo hotels. Better location and view for us.

http://travel.yahoo.com/ideas/hotel-rooms-with-the-best-views.html?page=1

A recipe for duck confit

Reading today and noticed on France Guide a discussion of and recipe for duck confit, a dish I always enjoy if prepared properly, but not something I would think of cooking. Although anyone who knows me would tell you I love to cook but recipes that tend to be simpler and relatively healthy. During the week, my recipes tend to be what I call 30 minute dinners, ones that usually take me 30-60 minutes including preparation and cooking time, but no longer, and nothing complex. On weekends, particularly Sundays in the winter, I have been known to cook more involved meals like osso bucco and risotto. Duck confit is not on my cooking menu, but will remain on my eating menu, courtesy of Aquitaine.

So, for those who are more adventurous chefs, I wish you well with duck confit.

http://us.franceguide.com/special/INTERVIEW.html?nodeID=1474&EditoID=181723

McDonalds embraces the baguette

McDonalds is doing a test run of a sandwich on a baguette for introduction to their menu in France in an effort to cater to local tastes. Apparently, the French are embracing more fast food - quele horreur!! Although fast food in France does tend to be a little more nutritious and interesting, it is still fast food with higher fat and salt contents, and higher calories.

The article does get something wrong - that McDonalds did not open a French outlet until 1979. Although I have not eaten McDonalds since about 1978, I was still eating an occasional burger in 1977 when I was in Europe for the first time. After a few weeks of travel, we did attend the opening of the first McDonald's in Vienna, Austria, as well as eating at the McDonalds on the Champs Elysees in Paris (a two story McDonalds).


http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/dcp_10155_12602_2011+Garage+Door+Launch_AssureLink?adid=1

It is hard to imagine in France with all the food choices, going to McDonalds, but when traveling, especially with children, it is nice to have familiar food for them on occasion. Our kids would try French food, but would still eagerly await a McDonald's treat, especially the McFlurry, excited asking D. when he came back to the hotel with the goods "Did you get it? Did you remember the McFlurry?" But as with most kids, mine have thankfully outgrown most fast food and especially McDonalds.

One can only hope that by the time we're traveling with grandchildren, McDonalds in France will have even better selections so we can eat decently while the children splurge on fries and chicken nuggets. Who knows, maybe the nuggets will even be made of actual chicken by then.

More about Velib and Autolib in Paris

Although not everyone in Paris is a fan, it is the future:

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/04/11/paris-velib-autolib-sharing-programs_n_1413758.html?ref=green&ncid=edlinkusaolp00000009

Disneyland Paris turns 20

No, can't say I've been there. Been to Disneyland (kind of sad and rundown) DisneyWorld when it was new, fun and exciting, but haven't been back in years. It's interesting that Paris Disney did well despite the recession and that it is more of an equal opportunity employer than most European/France entities. It's also interesting about how one Disney job spawns additional jobs in the community, and that its debt will be paid off in about 12 years. Long time coming:

http://news.yahoo.com/disneyland-paris-turns-20-mixed-results-160617732.html

Jules Leotard and gymnastics:

Who knew that the Leotard is actually named for Jules Leotard, all the years I wore those for gymnastics and dancing. Can't say I gave any thought to its origins and the basis for the name when I was young. But seeing this article today made me smile and think of young girls everywhere in their leotards, dancing, jumping, spinning, and happy.

http://shine.yahoo.com/team-mom/fun-facts-gymnastics-150700686.html

French eccentricities

D. and I often discuss why we enjoy France so much and the people, and much of it comes down to the quirkiness and acceptance of eccentricities. In America, we seem so often to search for conformity, and punish those who either can't comply or won't. We only have to look at how children act as bullies in a US school, picking on anyone smaller, weaker or different, particularly different. The bully always looks to exploit that weakness or difference, whatever it may be.

Be it our political system, education, and so many other areas of life where originality is discounted and discouraged, and bullies seem valued. That said, without those traits and beliefs, we would never have had Edison, Jobs, and so many others who changed the US and the world. But they had to fight the mainstream conformists to do so, swimming upstream against our narrow Patrician beliefs. We discount people with experience and knowledge and value those who are the loudest, and appear the most confident and aggressive, as if that is the same as competence.

In contrast, in France, original thought is valued and esteemed. Take so many French philosophers and writers, artists, etc. Quirkiness and eccentricity is accepted without question, as this is part of the liberty and equality that the French believe in.

So, D. and I, as quirky eccentrics that we are, know that we fit in with French culture. That our eccentricities will be accepted without challenge or question.

Provence with ducks

D. was in Provence a few weeks ago, arranging cars and our house for the summer. It all looks a little different out of season, but still beautiful. A friend recently sent us a photo of our pool, complete with a duck floating happily in the salt water.

The Provence dreams sustain us through the year, and our email and skype with friends we know we will see once again in only three months. The time seems to drag a little now as the weather warms up, and we wish we could be on a plane even know, but for work and children in school we would be there, settled in to our new house. Meanwhile we plan, planning to live the dream, knowing we are so fortunate to be able to embark on this adventure each year, creating new memories for us and for you.

Paris Bistro - Le Grand Pan

Another NY Times article from January 2012:

review sounds lovely, in an out of the way spot. For someone like me who is food particular and doesn't eat red meat, it may be difficult but perhaps it can be worked out, sans blague:

http://travel.nytimes.com/2012/01/29/travel/restaurant-review-le-grand-pan-in-paris.html

Biking in Paris - Velib tips and others

As always the NY Times has great travel articles. Here is one from March which discussing the glories of biking in Paris, including tips for using the Velib biking system. Note that there is an iphone app which can tell you the nearest station and how many bikes are available at each one. Also, be careful and use an American Express card as your Visa or Mastercard may not work if it doesn't have a Europe chip in it. There are also some other biking tips, placing to rent etc.:

http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9F05E6DB143BF93BA25750C0A9649D8B63

New Modern Landmarks around the world

Several here in the US including the high-line in NYC, and fabulous modernist bridges in France and in Venice, Italy:

http://travel.yahoo.com/ideas/world-s-top-new-landmarks.html

follow us on twitter

We are pleased to announce we are now on twitter so you can follow us as we travel this summer:

@jadorefrance on twitter

Nice piece about receiving a Michelin Star

For a chef, this is the epitome of success, from France to New York:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVxNgOImSdE&feature=youtu.be&utm_source=Outbrain&utm_medium=DigitalDisplay&utm_term=textlink&utm_content=Guide2&utm_campaign=2012ChefVideoCampaign

Even the French have doomsday cults

Here is something you don't see every day, especially in France, a doomsday cult worshiping at the base of a mountain. Apparently they French government is afraid of suicides at the mountain in advance of doomsday.

http://news.yahoo.com/blogs/sideshow/pic-bugarach-french-commune-home-20-000-doomsday-210932058.html

In France Medicine is Not A Business

In America anyone can write a diet book, including doctors. There can be no basis in fact or science, no studies to support whether the diet works, under what conditions, for how long, etc. In France, they actually expect a diet doctor to follow the rules, follow science and the ethical considerations in being a doctor, including not practicing medicine as a business. Wow, now that is novel. In America, isn't every doctor running a business? Every lawyer? We work at balancing ethics and doing what is right for the client or patient, and still earning a living to support our families. What if we were freed, paid a salary, and just practice our profession the right way. That is how medicine is practiced in France.

So, here we have the French diet doctor, Pierre Dukan, hawking his wares - his latest book, about high protein diets and the French medical society is accusing him of practicing medicine as a business, and not following science.

http://news.yahoo.com/french-medical-orders-target-diet-guru-pierre-dukan-173204743.html

Memories of Barcelona - Snowflake

Writing today with someone about traveling in Spain brought back some memories of Snowflake, the Albino Gorilla at the zoo in Barcelona. The Zoo itself was not much, very old-fashioned and small, but charming for a city like Barcelona. I always describe Barcelona as similar to San Francisco, set into a hillside overlooking a bay, very sophisticated and artistic, full of Gaudi architecture. A man who was brilliant and creative but clearly partaking of the recreational drugs of his day. I had the pleasure of climbing the temple de la segrada familia - his neo-gothic cathedral that was never finished. Somewhat unfortunately, the city is now trying to finish the structure, but it is fairly controversial as to whether it is faithful to Gaudi's plans as he had several different ones in process before his too early death.

As for Snowflake, I will have to find my photos and upload them as they are pre-digital. He was quite majestic and striking, as an albino gorilla is quite rare. In Africa they would suffer in the sun, and even with the shade he was provided in the zoo, Snowflake still became ill with skin cancer at the end in 2008. But he left a legacy of many people who cared for him, and visitors drawn to the zoo, his offspring, and his genetic legacy giving scientists the ability to study the genetic basis for his condition.

http://www.pbs.org/wnet/nature/episodes/snowflake-the-white-gorilla/snowflakes-legacy/278/

A Snowflake who was left a legacy, not fleeting and gone in seconds.

A another list of beautiful places for travel

Naturally France is in there with Bordeaux.

http://travel.yahoo.com/ideas/10-stunning-travel-destinations.html;_ylt=AuotMpxrEGc53OZWztcp6vTc6cB_;_ylu=X3oDMTI1M21kZnVoBG1pdAN0cmF2ZWwgSWRlYXMgQXJ0aWNsZSBib2R5BHBvcwMxNQRzZWMDTWVkaWFBcnRpY2xlQm9keVRlbXBBc3NlbWJseQ--;_ylg=X3oDMTNqbHQxYTYzBGludGwDdXMEbGFuZwNlbi11cwRwc3RhaWQDNDYyMTgxY2QtNjM2Yy0zODg0LWIzZTktNGQ1NWQ5YjRhMTk1BHBzdGNhdAN0cmF2ZWxpZGVhc3x0cmF2ZWxhcnRpY2xlcwRwdANzdG9yeXBhZ2UEdGVzdAM-;_ylv=3?page=all

How US fails to understand Europe

As we all know there appears to be a vast cultural divide between US and Europe. We are always thinking that their society means socialism and therefore bars capitalistic development. Instead what it really means is a more fair society, with tax structure and health care etc. Corporations don't run and own the government, unlike here. This article/segment from CBS Sunday morning has it right on:

http://www.cbsnews.com/8301-3445_162-57404104/how-gop-candidates-get-europe-wrong/?tag=exclsv

Learn French - move to Canada?

So maybe you can't immigrate to France, but Quebec wants immigrants, especially those who can speak some French.

http://news.yahoo.com/chinese-discover-backdoor-canada-though-quebec-203651920.html

A sad day in France with the Jewish school shootings

But the French police seem quite on top of it, searching nationally for several neo-nazi sympathizers they believe may be responsible. A horrible act of domestic terrorism. Even the Presidential candidates have suspended their campaigns while the investigation is pending. Can you imagine US candidates doing that?

http://news.yahoo.com/blogs/envoy/french-police-hunt-sniper-four-killed-jewish-school-210439051.html

Sweden working to eliminate cash transactions

this is an interesting analysis. Sweden is working to eliminate all cash transactions and projects it can be done within 20 years. Only 3 percent of their economy is based on using bills or coins, while 7 percent of US economy is cash transactions. Sweden is tops in digital innovation in the world. We need to move along faster, that's for sure but can't if we don't improve our education system to allow for innovation and having a populace who can keep up with the changes.

http://www.cbsnews.com/8301-202_162-57399610/sweden-moving-towards-cashless-economy/?tag=exclsv