Russian Billionaire travels to Courchevel, France

Interesting choice for this owner of the NJ Nets and possible future Russian president, along with the chef from Chez Bru in Eygalieres, a European celebrity chef. A truly spectacular spot in the French Alps where we've traveled several times to experience. Although St. Moritz and Chamonix are also beautiful ski resorts, there is something about Courchevel that calls to us, from the views, to the food, to the people, and the hotels, and so much more.

http://www.thepostgame.com/blog/travelers-check/201112/prokhorov-takes-entourage-two-dozen-french-alps

Although I do not ski any longer, D. has skied the slops, we've eaten lunch at the top of the mountain at Cap Horn sitting outside in the sun, stayed at both Biblos and our more favorite, La Lana and eaten at many of the local restaurants. Most hotels there offer a European plan for food along with your room, meaning breakfast and either lunch or dinner. The chefs who work on the Cote D'Azur and Provence in the summer migrate to the Alps for the winter, heading to where the money travels seasonally. At La Lana we have stayed in a special suite with a private hot tub in the bathroom which seats four, and had a 180 degree view of the slopes from our window so we could watch the grooming all night if we so choose.

There are several levels to the mountain but at 1850 meters, is where the action is, complete with former Olympic skating rink with a view of the mountains, and stylish women walking the streets in their fur-trimmed parkas, apres ski. The altitude does require some adjustment and you definitely want chains for your car to climb the mountain with if you are driving. About two hours from the Geneva airport, but a long road up the hill requiring confidence in your driving skills. Once on the mountain you can take the gondola system to other ski areas throughout the valley, or on the same mountain. Very professionally run, and fabulous ski school, with adorable little children learning quickly and flying down the slopes before you know it. At Biblos, you are outside the town and need to use their shuttle to come and go. At La Lana you can ski out, including from their equipment rental room.

We hope to go back soon - maybe 2013.

French make it harder to become citizen

The new restrictions begin in January with major immigration reform. One would have to take tests on French history and culture as well as language, demonstrating proficiency of a 15 year old native speaker. I would definitely not pass that test. After the next election cycle may also bring other restrictions including denial of dual citizenship and denial of citizenship to children born in France but whose parents are not French citizens.

http://www.france24.com/en/20111229-france-tightens-screws-immigration-election-looms-sarkozy-gueant-citizenship

New Park in Madrid

Having traveled to Madrid quite a few years ago (1992) but loving the city as quite cosmopolitan with fabulous Museums and restaurants, shopping, and walking in Retiro Park (rather like Central Park in NYC), reading this article about a new park created from what used to be the M-30 highway, sounds rather like the High-line in NYC.

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/12/27/arts/design/in-madrid-even-maybe-the-bronx-parks-replace-freeways.html?ref=world

Brussels Chocolate

Sounds like a worthwhile chocolate tour:


http://travel.nytimes.com/2011/12/25/travel/brussels-the-chocolate-trail.html?hpw

Woody Allen's favorite Parisian Films

worthwhile list, haven't seen all of them but may need to now as we so loved "Midnight in Paris"

http://www.thedailybeast.com/newsweek/2011/12/18/woody-allen-s-5-favorite-parisian-films.html

April Fool's Day - French Origins of Le Poisson d'Avril

While we don't know that this is correct interpretation, this is a fun story to share about the alleged French origins of April Fool's Day or le Poisson d'Avril.

http://www.francetravelguide.com/april-fools-day-in-france-le-poisson-davril.html

We'll have to look for this as April gets closer, or is this all a big April Fool's joke? Since D.'s birthday is April 2, I always feel that I am married to an April Fool. This year, maybe he will be tagged with a paper fish on the back so I can call him mon Poisson d'Avril.

Baked Brie - Not a French Recipe but fabulous.

Every year at this time for our holiday party we venture into cheese territory which is not really French but nevertheless very enjoyable and a pleasure for a party.

Find a full sized brie, place in pyrex dish, shave off the top skin, sprinkle with cinnamon and sliced almonds, baked at 300 degrees for about 30 minutes or until the middle is melted and gooey. Lovely on slices of baguette, or crackers. A new comfort food.

The US Government would never do this - pay for removal of defective breast implants!!

Since the French equivalent of the FDA is recommending removal of these PIP breast implants due to a possible link with cancer and also because quite a few have ruptured, the government is going to pay for the removal costs. That would never happen in the USA.

http://www.cnn.com/2011/12/21/health/breast-implants/index.html?hpt=hp_bn2

Hamane? Wasteful? Don't really know. I suppose if you have the money to have the implants (unless it is reconstructive after breast cancer), then should it be your responsibility to have them removed? Or is it more likely culprit the company producing them? Is it the government's responsibility because they approved their use in France? All interesting questions for which there is no definitive answer.

Fish Spa Pedicure - Not for me.

The other night we received our French Groupon email with a deal on a Fish Spa Pedicure which is the rage right now in France. Very trendy and to me. slightly creepy and gross. After doing a little research, it was interesting to note that this is banned in many US states and the UK is looking at banning it also due to health and safety concerns. Many this would work for Jeremy Wade of "River Monsters" fame (definitely one of our favorite shows), but not for me.

Here's the article:

http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2011/may/01/fish-pedicure-health-animal-welfare

Buying a used car in France - Part Deux

We've continued to research used cars in France thanks to ebay.fr. Definitely difficult to find a car with leather seats, and without a black interior. We've learned that wagons all called "break". And that most have tow hookups, since we know that having a "donkey cart" is a necessity, not to mention if you want to tow a "caravan" (what a camper is called in Europe).

Another brand we have seen many times in France is Alfa Romeo and we have located one outside Paris with a saddle leather interior. We may be making a purchase. The question remained how to get it registered and transported to Provence, but a friend has connected us with someone who can provide this service and store the car until June. He is a mechanic and assured us that the Alfa was not the old Alfa - unreliable, but the new Fiat owned Alfa, reliable and sexy styling.

We've also been exploring insurance and determined that USAA, the company who provides us our US auto insurance, can provide for damages, road side service, and rental, but not liability. Our local agent, obtained through a friend is providing quotes including the basic liability. The pricing is so different that our policies here. Maybe it's being in NJ versus the countryside of France, maybe it is because we will only be using the car a few months each year, or even because the French are a less litigious society, but it is a significant difference. Over the next few weeks, we will be setting this up for the summer as car rentals are becoming more prohibitively expensive, especially as we stay longer and into August.

So, Alfa, here we come.

J'Adore France is now topping more than 1200 page views each month

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More from the NY Times Travel Section

Here is the link to the France section on their website. Some beautiful articles about Marseilles and Provence and a few other spots as well. I will take some time over the holidays to get caught up and post some more about each article.

ttp://travel.nytimes.com/travel/guides/europe/france/overview.html

Yoga spreads across the world - even to Paris.

Fun article in NY Times about finding Yoga Classes in Paris. I suppose I have a more French attitude toward exercise, preferring long walks with Avril to sweating in a smelly and possibly dirty gym. But this article makes it sound fun in Paris. We did find a yoga/pilates studio last summer that looked interesting in Fontvielle so we may venture to take a class. Only a few months left to our next trip, but who's counting.

http://travel.nytimes.com/2011/12/17/travel/excusez-moi-parlez-vous-yoga.html?ref=travel

French favorites of 2011

Here's a fun article about what's popular in France during 2011, from cars (Renault Clio), travel (Morocco) to music (Adele) to video games (Angry Birds) and much more. See, we are not that different.

http://josephbamat.blogs.france24.com/article/2011/12/17/what-french-want-christmas-consumer-trends-2011-0

Learn French on your iphone - Cool ap.

Yes, I am going to try out this free ap from French Radio Internationale:

http://itunes.apple.com/fr/app/id431841667?mt=8

I've already downloaded it and will try listening in the car. Any little bit helps with this dynamic but complicated language. Some days I think I'm going to get it and other days it is impenetrable.

The French Nationalist Front courting Jewish Vote?

Very odd. What is the old quote, politics makes strange bedfellows? So true if you read this article:

http://www.france24.com/en/20111214-national-front-goes-all-out-jewish-vote

Death of a legend - from New Jersey to Paris

Beautiful obituary about the death of a Parisian icon, George Whitman, founder of the bookstore Shakespeare and Company:

http://www.france24.com/en/20111214-founder-icon-paris-bookshop-george-whitman-france-shakespeare-and-company

NYC, the High Line, the Styleliner, and the Standard Grill

D. and I left early for NYC this afternoon, around 3 p.m. so we could walk a bit in the Meatpacking district, walk a little bit of the High Line, and get an early dinner. Turned into a better evening that we expected with new experiences and adding a new restaurant to our repertoire.

For one, we hit no traffic on our way in, finding parking directly in front of the restaurant. We then ventured up onto the High Line. We've heard so much about it, and recently seeing Diane Von Furstenberg interviewed on Charlie Rose about it and I was fascinated about the concepts of urban open space and design and the development in the City that has grown up around it, creating new vistas and values from something that was nearly demolished. This was a rail line that was primary used to bring cattle into the meat packing district for slaughter and packing, and it is now a space where young and old stroll without traffic, and find some peace from the hectic energy of the City. It is a beautiful and original space, with hundreds of people walking and experiencing the vistas, even on a chilly, windy day. A great use of space with plants and seating and views of the river and the city.

From there we arrived at the Standard Grill rather early for our reservation so we enjoyed sitting in the bar for an hour. D. had a glass of wine while I enjoyed a wonderful cup of hot chocolate (chocolate chaud) and warmed up. We relished the people watching which is always our spectator sport everywhere we go. Dinner was quite good, D. having the iceberg wedge salad with blue cheese dressing and large pieces of fresh bacon and spec which could have been a meal in itself. I ordered the duck breast and D. ordered the bacon cheese burger (because he didn't eat enough bacon on the salad). Both were above average. We were fortunate to have a seat near the kitchen and were entertained by watching the chef at the grill, the people sitting near us and the staff. This was a happening spot, including the Beer Garden next door under the High Line which was full of young people having a great time under the heat lamps.

After dinner, we walked a bit around the neighborhood and noticed the Styleliner, a camper renovated into an innovative shopping concept chock full of interesting items, from clothes, shoes, bags and jewelry to scarves, some vintage some new. Fabulous and reasonably priced for the quality of the items. We purchased a beautiful piece by the artist Lucy Hutchings, met the owner and the buyer, as they were closing and moving out. Definitely something to follow: at www.thestyleliner.com. Check it out

New J'Adore France Statistics

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So even the French are hating the Euro

Even though it was a French idea, about 30% of the French want to return to the Franc. Although it makes traveling in Europe so much easier, I can understand their desire for independence.

http://www.france24.com/en/20111207-growing-france-franc-euro-currency-survey-economy-eurozone-le-pen-sarkozy

Things that Last

D. and I have been discussing this for some time since, as we all know, few things are made these days to last forever, some are French, some American. But when the economy is as it is, what is worth investing in? Do we really need to spend money on something and if so, what do you buy? So, what we've come up with thus far:

1. Louis Vuitton Luggage - almost indestructible, just need to replace the zipper about every 20 years.
2. A Cartier watch - just need to maintain it, clean it, etc. every five years or so.
3. A Lodge cast iron pan - Made in the USA and not expensive- just clean it properly, oil it etc.
4. A Cuisinart Food processor - have had mine for about 30 years. The only thing that needs replacement now is the plastic container.

Will come back to this and add.

More French Expressions which are not really French?

Another good one is a french manicure which I never see in France except on Americans. Most French women have relatively short but manicured nails, not even polished. I am still seeking the elusive gel manicure in Provence and anticipate I will find it this summer. In the meantime, here is an interesting list of expressions and terms using the word French and how they translate or not, into French:

http://french.about.com/od/expressions/a/french.htm

Best European Cities for Holiday Markets

No it's not Paris:

Cologne Germany, closest to Paris is Bruges.

http://www.cnn.com/2011/12/02/travel/christmas-markets-lp/index.html?hpt=hp_c4

Possible changes to French voting laws

Would allow Foreigners to vote in local municipal elections, very controversial:


http://www.france24.com/en/20111201-socialists-push-bill-give-foreigners-vote-sarkozy-objects-ump-france-politics

Best chocolate taste test?

this was an interesting article. Can't say that I've tried the winner but I have tried the trader Joe's (which is fair) and many of the other brands in there. Can't believe that Valrhona is not in the mix as that is my favorite. Lindt is good but not great. Chocolove,Perugina,Devine, Whole Foods/365, Godiva, Green & Black's, Scharffen Berger are all good but not as good as Valrhona, not just due to taste but also texture.

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2011/11/29/the-best-dark-chocolate_n_958823.html#s358082&title=1_Michel_Cluizel

Bon Appetit.

Paris ranked 30 in the world for quality of life by Mercer

Interesting survey, ranking Paris 30 and Vienna number one for 2011. Mercer considers safety, infrastructure, health and other factors:

http://www.mercer.com/press-releases/quality-of-living-report-2011

But nothing like Paris for joie de vivre, fashion, food, art and just walking the city and taking it all in.

Best food in the world?

Here's in interesting article. Can't say that D. and I agree with it for NYC as we have our own favorite spots but we do agree with one recommendation for Paris:

http://shine.yahoo.com/shine-food/ultimate-food-lovers-bucket-list-154200960.html

Laduree in Paris is a must for a nice afternoon treat at the Salon de the'. Not the one on the Champs Elysee which is newer and more commercial, but the original shop on Rue Royale in the VIII's arrondissement. that shop originates from 1862 and is oh so charming and cozy on a chilly Paris day. Worth the wait to indulge in tarte tatin (an amazing up-side down apple pie with caramelized apples), the classic macaroons, and the millefeuille (a pastry with thin crispy layers of pastry and light creme in between the layers).

You'll need to walk it off but those are some worthwhile calories.

J'Adore France is World-wide with readership

I wanted to share with those who are reading this blog (averaging more than 500 per month and growing) that we truly have a world-wide audience. In the last six months in addition to our European and North-American audience, we have added readers from South America, Asia, Australia, and now Africa. Thus, other than Antarctica, we have readers on every continent. Please contact me if there is specific information you are interested in that we haven't posted, research and article ideas and comments.

Thanks to everyone for making this blog a success. Don't forget to click on those adds and sign-up to follow the blog as we travel.

Marks and Spencer reopening in Paris

On the Champs Elysee:

http://www.france24.com/en/20111125-parisians-celebrate-return-marks-spencer-paris-british-store-champs-elysees

LV Bags Stolen in Paris

Sounds like an inside job to me:

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2011/11/25/louis-vuitton-bags-stolen_n_1113044.html

items to be resold and also copied in China???

International Living ranks France for quality of Life

Interesting article placing New Zealand first, but France is in top 10, especially for raising a family:

http://internationalliving.com/2010/12/quality-of-life-2011/

Buying a used car in France

D. and I have been researching this issue since car rentals are becoming increasingly expensive especially for month-long stays. We are making arrangements with a friend to store the car when we are not at our rental property, and eventually the car will be stored at our own home when we find the right house for purchase. Neither of us believe in buying new cars due to the vast depreciation as soon as you drive off the lot. Even in the US we buy gently used cars. But considering buying in France is a little daunting, so we emailed with friends who have purchased there and got a referral to someone local who can assist us. We'll report back and let you know about the experience, but generally we are looking for a small wagon, probably Mercedes C-class, diesel, with a stick. One thing we already notice in looking at ebay cars is that there are quite a few of these, but almost none have leather seats. Not sure yet what that is about other than cost.

Here is a good article about purchasing a used car in France and all of the paperwork needed to register the vehicle and ensure that you are getting clear title:

http://www.parisfranceguide.com:81/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=45

French Dressing - Definitely not French

As I often write about French food, and we were eating a turkey filet mignon marinated in "french dressing" a salad dressing which I do enjoy on occasion, it got us discussing once again the word French and how it gets applied to things that are decidedly not French such as "French Fries" which are really from Beglium; French Toast (or Pan Perdue - lost bread but whose origins made with eggs dates to 1807 in the US), French Dip (invented in Los Angeles), etc. often to give the food a little extra cache'.

So, a little research this evening produced the following link to the origins of French Dressing which clearly have nothing to do with France or French food but someone named Louis French who lived in Ohio and whose wife invented the dressing to get him to eat vegetables. Fascinating.

http://maximumalexbain.com/post/31559471/the-origin-of-french-dressing

Remembering a concert from the summer in Eygalieres

Have been meaning to post this for some time since our summer trip. We had the wonderful opportunity one evening to attend a concert at a lovely small church Eglise Saint Laurent in Eygalieres given by an American who lives locally during the summer, Julie Scolnick, . Julie is a very skilled flutist with an wonderful pianist, Aurelian Pontier, to accompany her. The repertoire was a mixture including Bach and Rachmaninov. It was a lovely experience in a centuries old location, listening classical music in setting that was magical with the tone of the music. The audience was mostly French, very well organized and presented.

Can't say enough about the evening and we hope to see Julie next summer and hear her again.

New Work Rules in France for non-French graduates

Protectionism in France for their work-force:


http://www.france24.com/en/20111115-france-foreign-graduates-french-degrees-economy-employment-visas-jobs-education

In these difficult times, certainly understandable.

O Soleil and Petit Paris in Montclair NJ

Since we have started our French classes again at Fiaf in Montclair we try to attend the events they have, as they are expanding their outreach into the community, including relationships with local businesses and the Montclair Museum.

We learned recently about a discount available for FIAF students at Petit Paris, and yesterday I went to explore O Soleil on South Fullerton owned by Isabelle Lesniak and Carole Brunet-Veale, a lovely store with many items direct from France. The items include clothes, jewelry and housewares as well as Marseilles soap. A great spot for special gifts too.

Here is the website for address and directions: http://www.osoleilfrance.com/index.swf

Bon chance.

Lovely dinner last night in NYC - Demarchelier on east 85th

As we often do, we ventured into NYC last night for a walk through the Metropolitan Museum and the exhibit containing the paintings Arthur Steiglitz had collected during his lifetime. Beautiful, very comprehensive exhibit including John Marin, Picasso and, of course, Georgia O'Keefe. There was also a fun exhibit about art and caricature in art containing all works from the Met's collection. We always feel that even if we cannot be in Europe, we can be transported there by enjoying the Met on a Saturday night, with the live music playing in the main gallery entrance, and the international crowd taking in the exhibits.

We took a walk afterward and ended up at Demarchelier on east 85 off Madison for a solid French Bistro style meal. They have a well-priced prix-fixe for $27 including a salad or soup, a list of main courses and one glass of wine. D. drank both glasses and ate the steak frites which I had the coq au vin. Both were nice sized portions and well prepared. We each had a salad for starters. We tried the tarte tartin but found it not to our liking, not authentic, so next time we'll try a different dessert.

C'est la vie.

Nursing homes in France

As you may recall several years ago, more than 30,000 elderly people died in France during a heatwave, as many were left home along while their children who they lived with went on holiday without them. So few in France at that time had air conditioning and people were really not prepared for the heat. Now, there are minisplits everywhere (D's business) and people are more conscious about how to care for the elderly. That said, I've been wondering about nursing homes and other elder care issues in France. So, here is a good article:

http://www.justlanded.nl/english/France/Articles/Property/Retirement-Homes

The most interesting thing is the requirement that a child is legally responsible for the parent's care.

New language rules for French immigrants

This says a lot about France and how it is dealing with its immigration issues:


http://www.france24.com/en/20111012-new-immigration-rules-require-knowledge-french-language-government

Health Ins. for Ex-pats

This has been a big question for D. and me - how do we get health insurance if we are living in France (or anywhere outside the US)? Well, questioned answered. Great website for ex-pat health insurance with rates. Much cheaper than in US. Note that each adult has to buy their own individual policy, but even in your 60s you can have insurance for about $5000 per year per person, much cheaper than US insurance coverage and probably much better.

http://www.aaro.org/medical-insurance

Huffington Post goes French

Huffington Post will be publishing a French edition with Le Monde's assistance in November.

http://www.france24.com/en/20111011-le-huffington-post-launch-november-arianna-france-us-news-entertainment

Food police in France go after Ketchup?

Check it out, restrictions in France on serving ketchup in schools:

http://www.latimes.com/news/nationworld/world/la-fg-france-ketchup-20111006,0,1095831.story

And we think the US government is paternalistic.

Weapons ownership in France

Here in the US, we argue over the right to bear arms and what the Second Amendment really means. In France, weapons ownership rather different. Based upon my research, weapons ownership requires a six month membership in a local gun club, with attendance and participation at the shooting range.

Here are links to two articles with good explanations of the process required to own weapons:

http://www.handgunforum.net/new-handguns-area/15611-firearms-ownership-france.html

http://www.brittany-internet.com/BrittanyNews/ShootingFirearms/tabid/59/Default.aspx

Car Wash in france

Unlike the US, car washes in France are self-service. In fact, I have yet to see a full-service car wash. My favorite are the blue elephant ones, which are all automated, so they do not require any employees. Again, another area where Europe is ahead and in a different place.

Here is the link to the address for the one in Cavaillon:

http://maps.google.com/maps/place?client=safari&rls=en&oe=UTF-8&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=lavage+voiture+cavaillon&fb=1&gl=us&hq=lavage+voiture&hnear=0x12b5f78c23e0c31d:0x713d41454197b887,Cavaillon,+France&cid=14899436362109275496

Daica Duster - Very popular in France

It was noticeable this summer the increasing number of these cars/suvs. Originating from Daica in Romania, which seems to be owned by Renault. The price is right too.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dacia_Duster

Relais Routiers - Where the Truckers eat in France

Over the summer, D's father kept talking about the relais routiers and how these were good places to stop for food along the road. After a little research the article link below explains the system very well, and why it works - price, food, and location.

http://www.weareneverfull.com/cafes-routiers-oh-to-be-a-trucker-in-france/

Leasing and buying cars in France

D. and I were discussing this the other day, whether someone can lease a car in France in the same way you can here in the US. Attached is the link to an article that explains the loans/banking system in France. So, the short answer is that you can get a lease, for 15% down:

http://www.french-property.com/guides/france/finance-taxation/banking/loans/credit-types/

So brilliant - electric car rentals in Paris

We are so far behind. Here is fantastic article about taking the Velobike concept and expanding it to plug-in electric cars for short-term rentals in Paris.

So brilliant:

http://www.france24.com/en/20110930-paris-launches-autolib-bluecar-bollore-all-electric-car-hire-scheme-velib

Bread quest - ongoing - Dom's Grand Bakery in Hoboken & Fiore's

We did venture into Hoboken the other day on a not good for bread day - lots of rain and humidity. The bread was still above average for France or US. The place is not much to look at but worth the visit. What was most interesting was learning that they still fire the ovens with coal, not environmentally friendly but definitely bread-friendly.

Since we were in Hoboken, and so close by, it was required visit to Fiore's for a mozzarella and pepper sandwich, across from my old apartment on Adams street between 4th and 5th. Back in the day before Carlos' bakery moved to Washington Street and became famous via "Cake Boss" the bakery was on Adams next to Fiore's. Made a mean cannoli. Now, I probably can't afford to buy a cannoli there and definitely not a cake.

So, it's not France, but almost Italy.

France v. United States infant mortality and life expectancy

France out performs us again on both, even with all the smoking and drinking:


http://www.infoplease.com/world/statistics/infant-mortality-life-expectancy.html

Cost of living in France

Some interesting numbers from this website including city data:

http://www.numbeo.com/cost-of-living/country_result.jsp?country=France

As I find some additional data, I will be adding this as it is the basis for good questions. We talk about our tax rate and costs of living in the US, but what does it all translate to when we in the US can't afford health care and our schools our failure. Why are France and Germany in better financial shape than we are when they provide so much more to their citizens and have a much higher tax rate. Perhaps we do need a national sales tax, eliminating local taxes and it can get distributed back to the states on a per capita basis according to census figures?

Bread quest - ongoing - Dom's Grand Bakery in Hoboken

One of our favorite restaurants in Jersey City, Laico's, has wonderful bread, so a few weeks ago we decided that the next time we returned we would ask where they get the bread from. We learned that some is baked internally, but our favorite bread comes from Dom's Grand Baker in Hoboken:

http://maps.google.com/maps/place?client=safari&rls=en&oe=UTF-8&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=doms+bakery+hoboken&fb=1&gl=us&hq=doms+bakery&hnear=0x89c257608d1533d1:0x44b6ca6a1137bf87,Hoboken,+NJ&cid=6501913606679398303

We'll be heading there soon and report.

new jets for air france

Check it out:

http://news.yahoo.com/air-france-klm-order-airbus-boeing-jets-worth-071146098.html

Looking forward to flying.

Auto inspections in France

My 1999 Volvo passed its auto inspection today and it got us discussing about the French process and requirements:

Here is link to an excellent article explaining it all, very helpful:

http://geneva.angloinfo.com/countries/france/ct.asp

and they are quite strict.

Cheese quest continued - Buffalo Mozzarella via Costco

For our Labor Day barbecue we hit Costco for supplies and I noticed a container of Italian imported Mozzarella. The taste wasn't quite as good as what we get in Europe but very nice consistency. Worth a try. Very surprising find.

Travel 2012 - Reservations

We are accepting reservations to travel with us in 2012.

If you are interested in experiencing Provence with us, contact us via www.jadorefrance.net.

Bon chance. Bon Voyage.

Continuing Jersey Bread Quest - Gina's Bakery Montclair

In preparing for Hurricane Irene, we determined there was no way to hunker down without some good food and a good bread. Since the Montclair farmer's market was still being held, I headed in for some corn, tomatoes (to make sauce) and other goodies and walked down the block to Gina's Bakery on Walnut. It is a small shop with a few cafe tables inside and out. It does not have a large selection but it includes baguettes and my favorite - a round rosemary-garlic bread which has a fairly good consistency and pleasant taste. Went well last night with my veal milanese and fresh pasta and homemade tomato sauce. Next time will try their baguette as well as the Montclair Bread Co. across the street for a taste test. The bread quest continues Jersey syle.

It's Not France but . . . Hoboken has its food spots

Having lived in Hoboken for nine years back in the 80's, I always enjoyed returning to a few favorite spots. D. suggested a take-out lunch from Fiore's on Adams Street for a fresh mozzarella sandwich with sweet peppers. Fantastic, truly, on excellent bread. Probably the best mozzarella around, at least New Jersey. This was why Frank Sinatra used to order from Fiore's shipped to Palm Desert every month.

If we can't be in France, this is a special treat every so often.

Black-belt shopping Jersey style

So I've been waiting for the sale to start at the Bass shoe outlet in Secaucus, rather than spending money this year on refurbishing books, I would invest in new. I also needed to replace the clogs that came apart last year. We became excited when we got the mail announcing the sale, and providing a 20% off coupon for whatever we bought on top of the buy 1 get two free, and the two $10 off coupons I already had. Off we went on another shoe hunt, finding clearance items including two pairs of sandals I liked this summer but could not find in my size but now were, and they are now on clearance for $20.00. So, I came out with boots for the winter as did D., and also found three very nice cord skirts in basic colors. As with all Bass items, well made, basic styles, and comfortable.

When we pulled in to the parking lot we noticed the sign advising we could text and get another $5.00 coupon. By the time we were done, we spent $373, with average price of items purchased $26.00, saving more than $1000. It was crazy. Definitely required me to clean out more shoes and clothes and let go of unneeded and unworn stuff. More for ebay and consignment. What fun.

We also ventured into the Pierre Deux outlet which, like the Millburn store, is still overpriced, even with the sale prices and efforts to liquidate. We definitely could see why the store has gone under.

Bread and Cheese quest, New Jersey style

The re-entry this year has been noticeably difficult, maybe because we were away a little longer. So, we keep trying to find some acceptable bread and cheese to survive with until our next trip. So, other than the bread we get when dining in Jersey City and a few New York spots, we have been searching for the basic baguette to bring home for dinner.

So, we've tried Whole Foods, Calandra's, Sanitary, and found some acceptable bread at Sorrento's in East Hanover. We will still keep trying. At Sorrento's we also found some very nice white fig jam. Although the consistency is odd, the taste and quality is good.

Then on the cheese front, we've tried from Whole Foods, Affinage, Trader Joe's, and the best, believe it or not, was Black Forest Goat Cheese from Shop-rite, which was imported from France.

We're planning some excursions to NYC over the winter to try a few more spots for bread and cheese.

Note: other bread finds in New Jersey
1. Bagels: Sony's in South Orange - even getting the frozen ones, put in microwave and they are fantastic.
2. Rye Bread - Eppes Essen in Livingston.
3. Challah - hands down, West Orange Bake Shop, who also produces amazing onion rolls and, during Chanukah, great donuts especially for someone like me who ordinarily doesn't eat or like donuts.

Behind the scenes at La Tour D'argent restaurant.

Worth a look:

http://www.france24.com/en/20110819-behind-scenes-world-famous-tour-dargent-restaurant-france-gastronomy

Now accepting applications/reservations for summer 2012 private travel

Please contact us via website www.jadorefrance.net and email jadorefrance2011@gmail.com to discuss summer 2012 private travel services and reservations.

Pierre Deux closing and bankrupt?

In Millburn today and noticed the sign on the Pierre Deux is closing and apparently bankrupt.
Took a walk through and found, even with the sale, very overpriced merchandise, even though is high quality.

Here is the link:

http://www.casasugar.com/Pierre-Deux-Closes-Stores-Files-Bankruptcy-18058410

Why no buffalo mozzarella in the US - A US mystery?

Or at least NJ - cannot find it, although some California producers are trying to mimic the consistency. Previously we had seen it labeled as buffalo but knowing it wasn't the real thing.

So, as is my nature, doing the research, no one is milking water buffalo in the US to produce this cheese. Can't say I blame them as I cannot imagine what it is like to milk a water buffalo.

We've been trying some American cheese since our return and it is disappointing all the way around, so we will not be eating much cheese this year. The only one that I can compensate with is my famous (among friends) baked brie.

So, until next year.

Handicapped parking in France

Although Europe is not easy for handicapped people with all the stairs and small spaces, we did enjoy a new experience this summer was using D's handicapped sticker in France this summer. No problem at all. Definitely worthwhile to bring this and use it if you need it.

French impressions 2011

Now that we have been back for a week, it is a jarring re-entry experience. The weather, the topography, the people, the food, all so different.

Trying to contemplate fleeting impressions of the summer:

The dog difference - so many breeds but no pitbulls which are such an epidemic in the US.

Graffiti in England (and French) saying tourists go home, and other political messages. Not artistic, not a tagging statement.

Hitchhiking returned - lots of young people hitchhiking near tollbooths on the auto routes, college-aged, happy and trusting. not something you see much in the US these days. too dangerous.

Obama Disco - outside Lyon. The French take their Obama-love, to a new level with this spot seen from the auto route.


Overall, peace, beauty, all senses employed and enjoyed. Can't wait to return. Only 10 months but who's counting.

Counterfeiting French wines in China - unexpected but interesting.

Article about this new phenomenon:

http://www.france24.com/en/20110811-french-wines-victim-chinese-counterfeiting-chateau-lafite-bordeaux-china-labels

beware drinking wine in China - like a box of chocolates, you never know what you're going to get.

A book about Hermes

Looks to be interesting and beautiful book about Hermes and its construction process. Explains why the bags are so expensive:

http://beta.stylelist.com/2011/08/04/koto-bolofos-la-maison-hermes_n_926728.html#s329748

Windows on Provence

A few months ago we went to an exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum in NYC, paintings of windows which was revolutionary in its time, on the outside world, a sense of expectation and wonder at what a person was looking at.

With that in mind, I took these photos framing the views of the garden in Provence, to keep us through a cold winter, looking to the future and our return.

France is Green - addendum

On our way north from Provence to Paris we took this photo from the highway near Lyon. It says so much about the present and future of energy in France.

France and the current economic upheaval

Solid analysis of France's position:

http://www.france24.com/en/20110808-france-financial-crisis-credit-rating-ecb-usa-standard-poors-paris-debt-economy

Is France the most depressed country?

Article about a study of depression in developed v. developing countries. France is tops for people having a major depressive episode in their lifetime and people who take anti-depressants. The US is number 2.

http://www.france24.com/en/20110802-france-world-most-depressed-nation-who-study-research-headlines-antidepressants

Interesting especially when one considers that alcohol is a depressant so maybe all those people drinking wine are just adding to their depression? That would be a whole other study.

Markets in Paris, Sheraton CDG

As we head out of Provence and sadly ending our trip, we are heading to Paris for two days, staying at the Sheraton CDG as Starwood was making a special offer as they usually do this time of year. That's the building at the airport that looks like a ship. Easy in and out of the terminal, with the Paul Bakery right out the door, very good service in the hotel including the Club Room, good bedding, clean and soundproof.

We will have all day in Sunday to spend. Paris is not quite as dog friendly as Provence so in looking for parks to walk in and places to go, we have determined that the Tuileries Gardens are one of the few parks in Paris that allow dogs.

Also, we have walked numerous markets in Paris including the organic foods market on Sunday morning, so we will likely get a Starbucks and head there (I can smell the coffee brewing already).

I did find an excellent listing of all the Paris markets. Here is the link:


http://paris.angloinfo.com/information/6/markets.asp

Bon chance.

French politicians and their summer vacations

Even French politicians are getting caught in the perception issues surrounding vacations during a crisis and in an election year:

http://www.france24.com/en/20110804-french-politicians-forced-holiday-home-sarkozy-warning-crisis-libya-election

Bistrot Mogador

This evening's dinner at Bistro Mogador was a very special experience. The grounds at the Chateau D'Estoublon are beautifully lit for the night, the clientele were all pleasant, the staff was lovely, and the food excellent and fresh.

We hope this restaurant returns another year so we can experience it yet again and bring friends to share it with.

Provencal is not Provincial

The origins of the words make me think about coming from the Provinces, from the country, meaning simple but not in a good way. Rather, as someone who is not sophisticated and knows little about the world.

As we transit through our days and experiences, we discuss about how special this is and how exotic it can be, like the running of the bulls. But to those who live here, this is just life as they know it. And for them to travel to the US and experience a small town event would be equally exotic.

For us, here in Provence, it is about simple life, and really about the best of life. A slower pace, the best and freshest food, peaceful environment, and a chance to breath and unwrap the cloak of worry, weary survival that enmeshes us all year until we arrive and get off the plane and breath the Provencal air yet again.

nonsensical t-shirt of the day

New York Cheesesteak. No they don't know its from Philadelphia, not New York.

Part deux - La course de taureaux - running of the bulls -Molleges

A few additional photos of the event.

La course de taureaux - running of the bulls - in Molleges

When one thinks of the running of the bulls, one thinks of Spain and Pamplona, not Provence, but here there is a long history of bull fights and bull running, perhaps because it is close to Spain and the Mediterranian influences crosses borders and cultures. Over the years we have seen many signs relating to the Course de Taureaux and fetes related to it, but we had never experienced it, as they are usually later in the summer and we have already returned to the States.

Today's surprise in our travels was a trip to the pharmacy that turned into a running of the bulls. The streets were blocked in Molleges with signs saying deviation. We recalled that this was their annual fete, but had forgotten about the bulls. We drove around some signs toward the center of town, saw a large truck with men on top with large polls, pushing at something inside the truck. We also saw several mostly white Carmague-type horses waiting outside the truck, then riders mounted the horses and rode off.

We quickly realized that this was the course de taureaux. D. squeezed through the large metal barriers set up for safety to talk inside and watch. I stayed on the outside. Suddenly I heard a starting gun go off and saw horses running down the parallel street, then turn toward us, chasing and directing a good-size bull complete with horns, with young boys chasing the bull and the horses, cheering. The bull was directed to run toward the truck and run up the ramp. He leaped onto the ramp, as if happy to get away from those chasing him. The riders pulled up the horses and everyone rested and reorganized for the next run.

These are not the enormous creatures we see in the US at the rodeos, bucking broncos. These are smaller and more stream-lined, more athletic, as they run they really move. We stayed for about 30 minutes and watched various runs with single bulls, doubles, then the final run with four bulls. The bulls are running between two trucks set up at different points in the course. When the bulls are released from the truck, they are herded by the horses and riders, including with the polls, pushing them in a certain direction and keeping everyone safe. The horses seemed excited but you could see them bleeding a little by the end where the bulls had bumped them. I am thinking that the other day when we saw the cowboys in the field with the cattle, these were the same cattle, and that they were separating out the bulls that day to prepare for today.

We were lucky to be so close to the riders and horses, and the skilled bull handlers on the top of the truck, listen to their chatter and directions, including one strong but graceful women rider. These were all clearly people who had grown up around these animals, and for the riders, it was second nature to them and their relationships with their horses. Fascinating. By the end, all handlers and animals were ready for water and a rest. We were ready to get out of the sun, and continue our drive which turned into just getting a baguette, coming home, eating a light lunch and posting this.

Will post a part two with additional photos as this was an exceptional experience, very exciting and dramatic.

Some thoughts on love, sex and the French

French kiss

French letter (old term for condom)

It is hard to be in France and not think of the relationship between the French and love, as well as sex. Coming from the US where we are puritanical in views about sex, where religion infects our bedrooms, our classrooms, and our science, France can be refreshing. Sex is normal and natural. It is biology. Biology is science. Science is science, religion is religion and the two are separate and unrelated.

Riding the metro in Paris and seeing photos of half-naked girls is normal, because bodies are normal and natural. At the beach, we see young girls in bathing suits with no tops, just like the boys, until they reach a certain age where their bodies are changing. Why not?

Women go topless because it is normal and natural to do so. They play paddle ball on the beach topless. But they do cover up for lunch. Because food is serious business, and sex is too, but separate.

So there we were in Fontvielle today, when I noticed the condom vending machine on the wall out in the open on the street. When I've seen similar boxes in the US they are in the back of a bar or nightclub, near the bathrooms, nearly hidden, the same way we prefer to leave sex, sexuality and sensuality. In the US to find condoms or birth control methods is not easy and uncomfortable. Here, to find the same items is an easy trip to any grocery store or pharmacy, and a wide selection of items and varieties.

Here, women are women, and are comfortable being women, exuding femininity, showing style and attitude, without fear. Instead, viewing it as a natural power we all carry and share. Men are comfortable being men,, and less macho for it. Everyone seems to act as adults, and sex and sexual attraction is normal and with no mystery to it.

It is something hard to describe and explain, but to say that French is the language of love is both true and an understatement. To be in France is all about love and sensuality, be it the air and light, the views, the charm of the villages and towns, the beauty of its people, or the sensory delight of its food and wine. If that includes sex, enjoy - cie la vie.

Fontvielle Market Day and Chateau D'Estoublon

Today was a beautiful Provencal day, beginning with a drive to Fontvielle for the market day. We have been there so many times now for dinner, but not during business hours and we wanted to experience the town when people were in the streets, shops open and walk the market (Mondays and Fridays). Upon arrival we noticed it was not where I expected it to be. Rather than in a covered but open-air space, it was in a large parking area with about three rows of vendors. It was not enormous, but easy to walk with a nice selection of items, better pricing than some markets we've been to. Parking was very easy and accessible. Few if any tourists, and certainly no English heard. We found two pairs of linen slacks unlike any I had seen previously, and we were able to negotiate a little on the price.

While we were walking we enjoyed music from a talented trumpet player who was entertaining those sitting in the cafe next to the market, and strolled down the street to see some of the local stores. This certainly reinforced our view that this is a lovely quiet town, off the beaten path, and a worthwhile visit during the day.

On our return route, we stopped at the Domaine du Chateau D'Estoublon, a family-run winery and olive oil business which has added a restaurant and various shops on the property. It is absolutely worth the visit. The grounds are quite extensive and beautiful with the original 300 year old chateau still standing but in disrepair, and the newer mas structures, a chapel, and the area where the shops and restaurant has been added. Modern, clean bathrooms can also be found next to the chapel.

The shops are a must visit, beautiful products, not unreasonably priced given their quality and presentation, including wine, olive oil, pasta, and other provencal-type products, but at a higher level. Beautiful for gifts, particularly for business. Most people were walking out with a purchase.

Upstairs is truly a find, an incredible store full of clothes, furniture, and accessories for the home. Whoever is buying for this shop and designing the lay-out and displays has an amazing eye and artistic sensibility. We felt as though we were an Hermes-quality store, and that the family is doing a great job of building their brand.

http://www.estoublon.com/

We made a reservation for later in the week for the restaurant, Bistrot Mogador which has a prix fixe menu at 29 euro per person.

The rest of the day was relaxation, leftovers, cleaning up and cleaning out, laundry, and getting ready to wind up from the wind down.

Avril's New Blog

Yes, Avril has started a blog of her own, describing her travels.

Check it out at:

http://avrilstravels.blogspot.com/

Fete du Pistou in Lagnes - Off the beaten path

During our travels, which are many, the last few days, we noticed a sign for a fete for pistou - a local provencal soup loaded with vegetables, garlic and basil, that we both enjoy. We had never heard of this little village but my research quickly told me that it was not far from us (about 25 minutes), was small (about 1800 people), and it had a fete the last Sunday of July each year.

So, with Emily's assistance, we GPS'd our way through some narrow roads into this tiny village, where the entire town square was filled with people and tables, a fete even larger than Eyglieres' Paella fete. It is amazing to watch all these people, probably about 800, sitting peacefully, no one drunk beyond control, no noticeable police presence, and everyone having a lovely time.

This was different than Eygelieres, you paid 5 euro for the show (a DJ and some dancers) and the pistou. Everything else could be purchased at a vendor for nominal price, including fries, goat cheese and breach, Cavaillon melon, soda, wine, water, pizza, tartes, pretty impressive menu.

We were seated next to a very nice French couple who spoke no English, and also a lovely family with two little boys who were exceptionally well behaved. The woman sitting next to me tried to engage me in conversation and quickly realized I was not French, so in French we did speak a little about where we were from and I explained (in French!!) that I was studying French. We discussed the dog. All in all a successful conversation and I felt as though my hard work for two years sitting at FIAF for three hours per week is beginning to pay off.

Finally, the pistou arrived with much fanfare and well-organized, and it was worth the wait. Different than the one at Paradou from last night, this one was full of fresh vegetables and loaded with garlic and basil, to the point where hours later we are still tasting it, and feeling as though I am exhaling it. It may still be with us in the morning.

We did notice a small restaurant that may be worth returning for, but probably next year. Next year in Jerusalem and Provence.

Are all cars in Germany black?

Many years ago Henry Ford, when asked about producing cars in different colors, stated that customers could purchase a car in any color they wanted, so long as it was black.

For several years we have noticed that nearly all the cars with German plates we see here are black. We have seen them on the autoroute, even on the autobahn in Germany, black car after black car, Mercedes, Porsche, VW audi, even the Alfa Romeo.

So we asked a few German acquaintances for some insight. We were informed that since for years white cars (and now silver) were usually corporate fleet vehicles for employee use, everyone has purchased black, "a style" we were told.

Maybe also the black is warmer inside in a cold climate? Perhaps.

Peanut Butter in France - Found - Mystery solved?

For you who have followed us, you know that I am a health food junkie for many years, obsessed with organic foods and have a long-standing hobby of visiting health food stores whenever and wherever I travel.

So, it has been fascinating to me an inability to find peanut butter here in France, including in my favorite local health food stores in St. Remy and Cavaillon. When home in the US, we can walk into any grocery store and find all different kinds from Skippy to organic no salt crunchy peanut butter (my personal favorite). This is an American childhood staple (obviously not for those afflicted with an allergy to it).

So, although we have not solved the mystery of why (we're still working on that one), we were able to find a jar of peanut butter in a health food store in Apt, thanks to D.'s fearless and relentless efforts. Not cheap, 4 euro a jar, but there you go, we have it. A miracle.

Donkey carts - another French mystery.

For years now we have noticed an odd phenomenon, we call them donkey carts, cars of all shapes and sizes, expensive and cheap, towing behind them these little metal or wood carts. Some are open at the top and some are closed and locked. Some look like they should not be on the street as they are so decrepit, yet are being pulled by a Mercedes on the autoroute going 90 mph. Yesterday, we even saw a double, two metal ones clipped together to make one long one.

A friend of D.'s came up with the term donkey carts, as these look like something that a donkey should be pulling, not a car.

These are small carts, not substantial, and often we don't know why a car would even be pulling this. It cannot hold much luggage. The other day we were on the autoroute and noticed a large minivan pulling a tiny donkey cart, and one has to ask why. It is another French mystery that may never be answered.

Don't supersize me in France

When we were in Apt yesterday having coffee, it really struck us how we were sipping coffee from small demitasse cups as if coffee was a precious gem, rather than the large cups and mugs of coffee we get in the US, the bigger the better, grande and vente, supersize soda, buffets of all you can eat food.

In France, and in other European countries, the houses are so old and small, the streets so narrow, the villages so compact as are the cars Perhaps that is why the perception of size remains so different that the US where bigger is better, and a new McMansion rules the day.

Portion control here is critical, and I watch how people really eat their meals, just sitting with bread until their meal comes, not filling up on it as an appetizer, just a different relationship with their universe, ideas and concepts to model.

Market Day in Apt with stops in Lacoste and Menerbes

We had not yet been to Apt market day, a Saturday, so yesterday we got up early and drove the 30 minutes, arriving a little later than we planned, and the market was bustling and enormous, winding through the streets and squares of the city. We were fortunate because it was not a hot day and we could see more than usual. The prices for clothes were as high as everywhere else, but for other items, better, such as the folding cloth provence baskets. Other markets have them for about 10 euro, here I found several vendors in the 5 euro range.

As always, I was able to find the white truffles for a very low price of 7 euro for two nice sized truffles. Today was a truffle omelette day, thanks to Apt.

The market smelled like heaven with the spices, flowers, and fresh food. Our favorite cheese vendor was there and happy to see us traveling from St. Remy and Eygelieres. We saw our scarf lady, Kim's booth, but she was not there (the same one from St. Remy and Isle Sur la Sorgue).

We found a lovely little coffee shop where the aroma of freshly ground coffee was wafting out the door, and a table for two was available outside. They even had decaf (de-caffeine or sans caffeine). Although I have not had a Starbucks in four weeks now, I was doing well with not craving it until I got the coffee smell and taste again, now Starbucks is calling my name and I am dreaming of frappuccinos and cappuccinos.

On our return, we had seen the sign to Lacoste, and took a detour into heaven.

The village is set high on a hill with the chateau that previously belonged to the Marquis de Sade, and which was in ruins until it was purchased and restored by Pierre Cardin. The village now has an arts festival there each summer including opera and ballet. The village also has a program related to the Savannah College of Art and Design and we observed many American students walking the town, thinking how fortunate they were at such a young age to experience Provence.

We walked the streets which are so old an so narrow, even a small European car would find it difficult to transit, so many streets are blocked to auto traffic. In a small square we found the Cafe de Sade and had lunch overlooking the spectacular sweeping views of the Luberon valley.

As we left and continued down the mountain, we also drove through Menerbes, the setting for the Peter Mayle books about Provence. A lovely small village that may be worth a return walk. Next year, as our time now is winding down.