When one thinks of the running of the bulls, one thinks of Spain and Pamplona, not Provence, but here there is a long history of bull fights and bull running, perhaps because it is close to Spain and the Mediterranian influences crosses borders and cultures. Over the years we have seen many signs relating to the Course de Taureaux and fetes related to it, but we had never experienced it, as they are usually later in the summer and we have already returned to the States.
Today's surprise in our travels was a trip to the pharmacy that turned into a running of the bulls. The streets were blocked in Molleges with signs saying deviation. We recalled that this was their annual fete, but had forgotten about the bulls. We drove around some signs toward the center of town, saw a large truck with men on top with large polls, pushing at something inside the truck. We also saw several mostly white Carmague-type horses waiting outside the truck, then riders mounted the horses and rode off.
We quickly realized that this was the course de taureaux. D. squeezed through the large metal barriers set up for safety to talk inside and watch. I stayed on the outside. Suddenly I heard a starting gun go off and saw horses running down the parallel street, then turn toward us, chasing and directing a good-size bull complete with horns, with young boys chasing the bull and the horses, cheering. The bull was directed to run toward the truck and run up the ramp. He leaped onto the ramp, as if happy to get away from those chasing him. The riders pulled up the horses and everyone rested and reorganized for the next run.
These are not the enormous creatures we see in the US at the rodeos, bucking broncos. These are smaller and more stream-lined, more athletic, as they run they really move. We stayed for about 30 minutes and watched various runs with single bulls, doubles, then the final run with four bulls. The bulls are running between two trucks set up at different points in the course. When the bulls are released from the truck, they are herded by the horses and riders, including with the polls, pushing them in a certain direction and keeping everyone safe. The horses seemed excited but you could see them bleeding a little by the end where the bulls had bumped them. I am thinking that the other day when we saw the cowboys in the field with the cattle, these were the same cattle, and that they were separating out the bulls that day to prepare for today.
We were lucky to be so close to the riders and horses, and the skilled bull handlers on the top of the truck, listen to their chatter and directions, including one strong but graceful women rider. These were all clearly people who had grown up around these animals, and for the riders, it was second nature to them and their relationships with their horses. Fascinating. By the end, all handlers and animals were ready for water and a rest. We were ready to get out of the sun, and continue our drive which turned into just getting a baguette, coming home, eating a light lunch and posting this.
Will post a part two with additional photos as this was an exceptional experience, very exciting and dramatic.
No comments:
Post a Comment