Travel 2012 - Reservations

We are accepting reservations to travel with us in 2012.

If you are interested in experiencing Provence with us, contact us via www.jadorefrance.net.

Bon chance. Bon Voyage.

Continuing Jersey Bread Quest - Gina's Bakery Montclair

In preparing for Hurricane Irene, we determined there was no way to hunker down without some good food and a good bread. Since the Montclair farmer's market was still being held, I headed in for some corn, tomatoes (to make sauce) and other goodies and walked down the block to Gina's Bakery on Walnut. It is a small shop with a few cafe tables inside and out. It does not have a large selection but it includes baguettes and my favorite - a round rosemary-garlic bread which has a fairly good consistency and pleasant taste. Went well last night with my veal milanese and fresh pasta and homemade tomato sauce. Next time will try their baguette as well as the Montclair Bread Co. across the street for a taste test. The bread quest continues Jersey syle.

It's Not France but . . . Hoboken has its food spots

Having lived in Hoboken for nine years back in the 80's, I always enjoyed returning to a few favorite spots. D. suggested a take-out lunch from Fiore's on Adams Street for a fresh mozzarella sandwich with sweet peppers. Fantastic, truly, on excellent bread. Probably the best mozzarella around, at least New Jersey. This was why Frank Sinatra used to order from Fiore's shipped to Palm Desert every month.

If we can't be in France, this is a special treat every so often.

Black-belt shopping Jersey style

So I've been waiting for the sale to start at the Bass shoe outlet in Secaucus, rather than spending money this year on refurbishing books, I would invest in new. I also needed to replace the clogs that came apart last year. We became excited when we got the mail announcing the sale, and providing a 20% off coupon for whatever we bought on top of the buy 1 get two free, and the two $10 off coupons I already had. Off we went on another shoe hunt, finding clearance items including two pairs of sandals I liked this summer but could not find in my size but now were, and they are now on clearance for $20.00. So, I came out with boots for the winter as did D., and also found three very nice cord skirts in basic colors. As with all Bass items, well made, basic styles, and comfortable.

When we pulled in to the parking lot we noticed the sign advising we could text and get another $5.00 coupon. By the time we were done, we spent $373, with average price of items purchased $26.00, saving more than $1000. It was crazy. Definitely required me to clean out more shoes and clothes and let go of unneeded and unworn stuff. More for ebay and consignment. What fun.

We also ventured into the Pierre Deux outlet which, like the Millburn store, is still overpriced, even with the sale prices and efforts to liquidate. We definitely could see why the store has gone under.

Bread and Cheese quest, New Jersey style

The re-entry this year has been noticeably difficult, maybe because we were away a little longer. So, we keep trying to find some acceptable bread and cheese to survive with until our next trip. So, other than the bread we get when dining in Jersey City and a few New York spots, we have been searching for the basic baguette to bring home for dinner.

So, we've tried Whole Foods, Calandra's, Sanitary, and found some acceptable bread at Sorrento's in East Hanover. We will still keep trying. At Sorrento's we also found some very nice white fig jam. Although the consistency is odd, the taste and quality is good.

Then on the cheese front, we've tried from Whole Foods, Affinage, Trader Joe's, and the best, believe it or not, was Black Forest Goat Cheese from Shop-rite, which was imported from France.

We're planning some excursions to NYC over the winter to try a few more spots for bread and cheese.

Note: other bread finds in New Jersey
1. Bagels: Sony's in South Orange - even getting the frozen ones, put in microwave and they are fantastic.
2. Rye Bread - Eppes Essen in Livingston.
3. Challah - hands down, West Orange Bake Shop, who also produces amazing onion rolls and, during Chanukah, great donuts especially for someone like me who ordinarily doesn't eat or like donuts.

Behind the scenes at La Tour D'argent restaurant.

Worth a look:

http://www.france24.com/en/20110819-behind-scenes-world-famous-tour-dargent-restaurant-france-gastronomy

Now accepting applications/reservations for summer 2012 private travel

Please contact us via website www.jadorefrance.net and email jadorefrance2011@gmail.com to discuss summer 2012 private travel services and reservations.

Pierre Deux closing and bankrupt?

In Millburn today and noticed the sign on the Pierre Deux is closing and apparently bankrupt.
Took a walk through and found, even with the sale, very overpriced merchandise, even though is high quality.

Here is the link:

http://www.casasugar.com/Pierre-Deux-Closes-Stores-Files-Bankruptcy-18058410

Why no buffalo mozzarella in the US - A US mystery?

Or at least NJ - cannot find it, although some California producers are trying to mimic the consistency. Previously we had seen it labeled as buffalo but knowing it wasn't the real thing.

So, as is my nature, doing the research, no one is milking water buffalo in the US to produce this cheese. Can't say I blame them as I cannot imagine what it is like to milk a water buffalo.

We've been trying some American cheese since our return and it is disappointing all the way around, so we will not be eating much cheese this year. The only one that I can compensate with is my famous (among friends) baked brie.

So, until next year.

Handicapped parking in France

Although Europe is not easy for handicapped people with all the stairs and small spaces, we did enjoy a new experience this summer was using D's handicapped sticker in France this summer. No problem at all. Definitely worthwhile to bring this and use it if you need it.

French impressions 2011

Now that we have been back for a week, it is a jarring re-entry experience. The weather, the topography, the people, the food, all so different.

Trying to contemplate fleeting impressions of the summer:

The dog difference - so many breeds but no pitbulls which are such an epidemic in the US.

Graffiti in England (and French) saying tourists go home, and other political messages. Not artistic, not a tagging statement.

Hitchhiking returned - lots of young people hitchhiking near tollbooths on the auto routes, college-aged, happy and trusting. not something you see much in the US these days. too dangerous.

Obama Disco - outside Lyon. The French take their Obama-love, to a new level with this spot seen from the auto route.


Overall, peace, beauty, all senses employed and enjoyed. Can't wait to return. Only 10 months but who's counting.

Counterfeiting French wines in China - unexpected but interesting.

Article about this new phenomenon:

http://www.france24.com/en/20110811-french-wines-victim-chinese-counterfeiting-chateau-lafite-bordeaux-china-labels

beware drinking wine in China - like a box of chocolates, you never know what you're going to get.

A book about Hermes

Looks to be interesting and beautiful book about Hermes and its construction process. Explains why the bags are so expensive:

http://beta.stylelist.com/2011/08/04/koto-bolofos-la-maison-hermes_n_926728.html#s329748

Windows on Provence

A few months ago we went to an exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum in NYC, paintings of windows which was revolutionary in its time, on the outside world, a sense of expectation and wonder at what a person was looking at.

With that in mind, I took these photos framing the views of the garden in Provence, to keep us through a cold winter, looking to the future and our return.

France is Green - addendum

On our way north from Provence to Paris we took this photo from the highway near Lyon. It says so much about the present and future of energy in France.

France and the current economic upheaval

Solid analysis of France's position:

http://www.france24.com/en/20110808-france-financial-crisis-credit-rating-ecb-usa-standard-poors-paris-debt-economy

Is France the most depressed country?

Article about a study of depression in developed v. developing countries. France is tops for people having a major depressive episode in their lifetime and people who take anti-depressants. The US is number 2.

http://www.france24.com/en/20110802-france-world-most-depressed-nation-who-study-research-headlines-antidepressants

Interesting especially when one considers that alcohol is a depressant so maybe all those people drinking wine are just adding to their depression? That would be a whole other study.

Markets in Paris, Sheraton CDG

As we head out of Provence and sadly ending our trip, we are heading to Paris for two days, staying at the Sheraton CDG as Starwood was making a special offer as they usually do this time of year. That's the building at the airport that looks like a ship. Easy in and out of the terminal, with the Paul Bakery right out the door, very good service in the hotel including the Club Room, good bedding, clean and soundproof.

We will have all day in Sunday to spend. Paris is not quite as dog friendly as Provence so in looking for parks to walk in and places to go, we have determined that the Tuileries Gardens are one of the few parks in Paris that allow dogs.

Also, we have walked numerous markets in Paris including the organic foods market on Sunday morning, so we will likely get a Starbucks and head there (I can smell the coffee brewing already).

I did find an excellent listing of all the Paris markets. Here is the link:


http://paris.angloinfo.com/information/6/markets.asp

Bon chance.

French politicians and their summer vacations

Even French politicians are getting caught in the perception issues surrounding vacations during a crisis and in an election year:

http://www.france24.com/en/20110804-french-politicians-forced-holiday-home-sarkozy-warning-crisis-libya-election

Bistrot Mogador

This evening's dinner at Bistro Mogador was a very special experience. The grounds at the Chateau D'Estoublon are beautifully lit for the night, the clientele were all pleasant, the staff was lovely, and the food excellent and fresh.

We hope this restaurant returns another year so we can experience it yet again and bring friends to share it with.

Provencal is not Provincial

The origins of the words make me think about coming from the Provinces, from the country, meaning simple but not in a good way. Rather, as someone who is not sophisticated and knows little about the world.

As we transit through our days and experiences, we discuss about how special this is and how exotic it can be, like the running of the bulls. But to those who live here, this is just life as they know it. And for them to travel to the US and experience a small town event would be equally exotic.

For us, here in Provence, it is about simple life, and really about the best of life. A slower pace, the best and freshest food, peaceful environment, and a chance to breath and unwrap the cloak of worry, weary survival that enmeshes us all year until we arrive and get off the plane and breath the Provencal air yet again.

nonsensical t-shirt of the day

New York Cheesesteak. No they don't know its from Philadelphia, not New York.

Part deux - La course de taureaux - running of the bulls -Molleges

A few additional photos of the event.

La course de taureaux - running of the bulls - in Molleges

When one thinks of the running of the bulls, one thinks of Spain and Pamplona, not Provence, but here there is a long history of bull fights and bull running, perhaps because it is close to Spain and the Mediterranian influences crosses borders and cultures. Over the years we have seen many signs relating to the Course de Taureaux and fetes related to it, but we had never experienced it, as they are usually later in the summer and we have already returned to the States.

Today's surprise in our travels was a trip to the pharmacy that turned into a running of the bulls. The streets were blocked in Molleges with signs saying deviation. We recalled that this was their annual fete, but had forgotten about the bulls. We drove around some signs toward the center of town, saw a large truck with men on top with large polls, pushing at something inside the truck. We also saw several mostly white Carmague-type horses waiting outside the truck, then riders mounted the horses and rode off.

We quickly realized that this was the course de taureaux. D. squeezed through the large metal barriers set up for safety to talk inside and watch. I stayed on the outside. Suddenly I heard a starting gun go off and saw horses running down the parallel street, then turn toward us, chasing and directing a good-size bull complete with horns, with young boys chasing the bull and the horses, cheering. The bull was directed to run toward the truck and run up the ramp. He leaped onto the ramp, as if happy to get away from those chasing him. The riders pulled up the horses and everyone rested and reorganized for the next run.

These are not the enormous creatures we see in the US at the rodeos, bucking broncos. These are smaller and more stream-lined, more athletic, as they run they really move. We stayed for about 30 minutes and watched various runs with single bulls, doubles, then the final run with four bulls. The bulls are running between two trucks set up at different points in the course. When the bulls are released from the truck, they are herded by the horses and riders, including with the polls, pushing them in a certain direction and keeping everyone safe. The horses seemed excited but you could see them bleeding a little by the end where the bulls had bumped them. I am thinking that the other day when we saw the cowboys in the field with the cattle, these were the same cattle, and that they were separating out the bulls that day to prepare for today.

We were lucky to be so close to the riders and horses, and the skilled bull handlers on the top of the truck, listen to their chatter and directions, including one strong but graceful women rider. These were all clearly people who had grown up around these animals, and for the riders, it was second nature to them and their relationships with their horses. Fascinating. By the end, all handlers and animals were ready for water and a rest. We were ready to get out of the sun, and continue our drive which turned into just getting a baguette, coming home, eating a light lunch and posting this.

Will post a part two with additional photos as this was an exceptional experience, very exciting and dramatic.

Some thoughts on love, sex and the French

French kiss

French letter (old term for condom)

It is hard to be in France and not think of the relationship between the French and love, as well as sex. Coming from the US where we are puritanical in views about sex, where religion infects our bedrooms, our classrooms, and our science, France can be refreshing. Sex is normal and natural. It is biology. Biology is science. Science is science, religion is religion and the two are separate and unrelated.

Riding the metro in Paris and seeing photos of half-naked girls is normal, because bodies are normal and natural. At the beach, we see young girls in bathing suits with no tops, just like the boys, until they reach a certain age where their bodies are changing. Why not?

Women go topless because it is normal and natural to do so. They play paddle ball on the beach topless. But they do cover up for lunch. Because food is serious business, and sex is too, but separate.

So there we were in Fontvielle today, when I noticed the condom vending machine on the wall out in the open on the street. When I've seen similar boxes in the US they are in the back of a bar or nightclub, near the bathrooms, nearly hidden, the same way we prefer to leave sex, sexuality and sensuality. In the US to find condoms or birth control methods is not easy and uncomfortable. Here, to find the same items is an easy trip to any grocery store or pharmacy, and a wide selection of items and varieties.

Here, women are women, and are comfortable being women, exuding femininity, showing style and attitude, without fear. Instead, viewing it as a natural power we all carry and share. Men are comfortable being men,, and less macho for it. Everyone seems to act as adults, and sex and sexual attraction is normal and with no mystery to it.

It is something hard to describe and explain, but to say that French is the language of love is both true and an understatement. To be in France is all about love and sensuality, be it the air and light, the views, the charm of the villages and towns, the beauty of its people, or the sensory delight of its food and wine. If that includes sex, enjoy - cie la vie.

Fontvielle Market Day and Chateau D'Estoublon

Today was a beautiful Provencal day, beginning with a drive to Fontvielle for the market day. We have been there so many times now for dinner, but not during business hours and we wanted to experience the town when people were in the streets, shops open and walk the market (Mondays and Fridays). Upon arrival we noticed it was not where I expected it to be. Rather than in a covered but open-air space, it was in a large parking area with about three rows of vendors. It was not enormous, but easy to walk with a nice selection of items, better pricing than some markets we've been to. Parking was very easy and accessible. Few if any tourists, and certainly no English heard. We found two pairs of linen slacks unlike any I had seen previously, and we were able to negotiate a little on the price.

While we were walking we enjoyed music from a talented trumpet player who was entertaining those sitting in the cafe next to the market, and strolled down the street to see some of the local stores. This certainly reinforced our view that this is a lovely quiet town, off the beaten path, and a worthwhile visit during the day.

On our return route, we stopped at the Domaine du Chateau D'Estoublon, a family-run winery and olive oil business which has added a restaurant and various shops on the property. It is absolutely worth the visit. The grounds are quite extensive and beautiful with the original 300 year old chateau still standing but in disrepair, and the newer mas structures, a chapel, and the area where the shops and restaurant has been added. Modern, clean bathrooms can also be found next to the chapel.

The shops are a must visit, beautiful products, not unreasonably priced given their quality and presentation, including wine, olive oil, pasta, and other provencal-type products, but at a higher level. Beautiful for gifts, particularly for business. Most people were walking out with a purchase.

Upstairs is truly a find, an incredible store full of clothes, furniture, and accessories for the home. Whoever is buying for this shop and designing the lay-out and displays has an amazing eye and artistic sensibility. We felt as though we were an Hermes-quality store, and that the family is doing a great job of building their brand.

http://www.estoublon.com/

We made a reservation for later in the week for the restaurant, Bistrot Mogador which has a prix fixe menu at 29 euro per person.

The rest of the day was relaxation, leftovers, cleaning up and cleaning out, laundry, and getting ready to wind up from the wind down.

Avril's New Blog

Yes, Avril has started a blog of her own, describing her travels.

Check it out at:

http://avrilstravels.blogspot.com/

Fete du Pistou in Lagnes - Off the beaten path

During our travels, which are many, the last few days, we noticed a sign for a fete for pistou - a local provencal soup loaded with vegetables, garlic and basil, that we both enjoy. We had never heard of this little village but my research quickly told me that it was not far from us (about 25 minutes), was small (about 1800 people), and it had a fete the last Sunday of July each year.

So, with Emily's assistance, we GPS'd our way through some narrow roads into this tiny village, where the entire town square was filled with people and tables, a fete even larger than Eyglieres' Paella fete. It is amazing to watch all these people, probably about 800, sitting peacefully, no one drunk beyond control, no noticeable police presence, and everyone having a lovely time.

This was different than Eygelieres, you paid 5 euro for the show (a DJ and some dancers) and the pistou. Everything else could be purchased at a vendor for nominal price, including fries, goat cheese and breach, Cavaillon melon, soda, wine, water, pizza, tartes, pretty impressive menu.

We were seated next to a very nice French couple who spoke no English, and also a lovely family with two little boys who were exceptionally well behaved. The woman sitting next to me tried to engage me in conversation and quickly realized I was not French, so in French we did speak a little about where we were from and I explained (in French!!) that I was studying French. We discussed the dog. All in all a successful conversation and I felt as though my hard work for two years sitting at FIAF for three hours per week is beginning to pay off.

Finally, the pistou arrived with much fanfare and well-organized, and it was worth the wait. Different than the one at Paradou from last night, this one was full of fresh vegetables and loaded with garlic and basil, to the point where hours later we are still tasting it, and feeling as though I am exhaling it. It may still be with us in the morning.

We did notice a small restaurant that may be worth returning for, but probably next year. Next year in Jerusalem and Provence.