Le Journal Farandole - good resource

In addition to reading my favorite real estate magazines, I am always looking for resources for local events. Although I have seen this publication before, this trip I really was able to read it and understand the many events listed in its calendar for the holiday season, including December 24, the blessing of the truffles at a local church. The website is also helpful as you can local the links to local town websites which will also list many events, as well as a master calendar. Yes, it is in French, but you can use the google translation service to translate the page into English. http://www.journal-farandole.com/index.php?p=age

Joel Durand - Perfect as Always

Yesterday we had the opportunity to re-stock our chocolate supply by returning to Joel Durand in St. Remy. We have had chocolate in so many places in France and the US but no place as wonderful as Joel Durand. Yesterday, he was personally serving customers and I was fortunate enough to have him assist me in purchasing a box of truffle to take home. His shop is always beautiful, fully stock and smells like heaven with the chocolate fountain in the window, like chocolate chaud - hot chocolate waiting for its milk and mug. He was also ensuring that his staff was regularly offering samples including his New Year's special which was a truffle which included pavot (poppy) which gave the filling a crunch, and framboise (raspberry) which added additional sweetness. Parfait! Although he was still selling the ice cream cubes, it was a little chilly to eat ice cream, but it will give us something to dream of and work toward for the next trip. Merci Mr. Durand!

Molleges Gare - the necessities

Be it home or our other home, we always believe in supporting local businesses. As part of this trip we tried to use the local shops nearest to our house. Although our address is Eygalieres, and we love the market, cafes, restaurants, and the local epicure, Molleges Gare is a little closer and easier than finding in-town parking especially on a busy summer day. We were really pleased on this trip to get a pizza from Pizza de la Gare - all fresh ingredients, nice owners, and quite busy. We also have been enjoying fresh baguettes and some desserts from the Boulangerie. The cafe/tabac has not been open but we will make an effort to try a lunch there this summer. We even now have a store for necessities like eggs and milk - including organic products which was quite nice and well-stocked. There is a local cave or winery which we will also visit in the summer. The antiques shops (there are two) are lovely and jammed with stuff but we need to go back. One the prices were quite high, the other we need to explore further. Add it all to the list for spring and summer, as we get ready to pack up tomorrow and TGV to Paris for New Year's! Bon Anee!

Dress for Provencal Winter

Being the crazed traveler that I am, I worried about what to pack, do I wear New York black? Provence is so colorful in summer including the clothes, what do people wear in December? I felt safe packing jeans, along with black sweaters, shirts, slacks and a skirt, along with colorful scarves, and as I engage in our daily people-watching exercises, feel I have hit it on the mark. Naturally, I picked up a few fresh scarves from my favorite scarf lady - Kim - who always keeps me supplied like a dealer for an addict - have to add to my collection, nothing goes to waste as each one gets warn. For next year I would definitely be more comfortable with an even heavier jacket or coat as although it is not very cold, the dampness adds to the feeling of cold and my leather jacket with quilted lining was fine but could be even warmer. I was surprised to see many women in shearlings and down. So my layers and shawls along with my favorite faux fur leopard print hat have all got me through the trip very comfortably.In discussing the weather with a friend's husband, he explained that right now the weather has been mild, maybe a little milder than usual, but by February it will be much colder and truly feel like it. We hope to be back in April for a week, but we shall see, to experience another season in Provence.

Avignon Flea market

It is rather like an enormous multi-family yard sale, with furniture, clothes, electronics, tools, and anything else you can think of. As you walk through the field you realize that nothing goes to waste here, it is just a different form of recycling. It is worthwhile to have a list going in of items you are looking for, but you can always find the unexpected. A must is to get there no later than 8 a.m., dressed down as sometimes you are walking through mud or dirt, and the fancier you are dressed, the higher the prices will be as you negotiate. We went last Saturday looking for a large mirror for one bedroom, containers for sugar and flour, and a night stand for a bedroom and a few other odds and ends. I had budgeted about 100 euro (about $130). It took some time and patience in the cold, and unfortunately, it was so chilly I had only one hat - leopard print faux fur- and was definitely over dressed. So I scouted with S. and D. hung back, we conferred and he would return to negotiate without me. At the end, we had spent only 35 euro and got two night stands instead of just one, a beautiful mirror (nicer than I had expected), as well as the china containers. Today's find was a clothes spider (like one my mother had in the 60s) but needed in the yard here for laundry as few people have dryers due to energy costs. Viola!

Christmas trees in Provence

As discussed in some of my earlier posts on this trip, holiday decorations here are very tasteful and understated, including Christmas trees. As we drive through towns and villages, we rarely see homes decorated with lights, perhaps due to the cost of electricity. So, we were interested to see in the local supermarket, Intermarche, on December 22, there were still a few trees left which seemed rather expensive (about $45 per tree

) and the trees were small, and in pots meaning they will still alive and could be planted after the holidays were over. Additionally, they were could still be watered, not dried out and causing fires which happened inevitably every year in the US.

Absence and omission in France - vanity plates

In my legal training, we learned much about the absence of action, or the failure to act, or an omission. So, sometimes in traveling it takes us a while to realize that something we take for granted in the US is missing here. Last night on our way to Aix, we realized in discussing French license plates, that vanity plates would be easy to create here since license plates are manufactured by local vendors authorized by the government (but not the government itself), but there are no vanity plates on any cars here. I cannot recall in all our years traveling here and around Europe seeing vanity plates from any European country. Although France prizes individualism and creativity, as a society certain rules are expected to be followed and apparently license plate creativity is not the individualism and creativity the society is seeking.

Day old bread sold in France? Quelle horreur!!

The French are notoriously frugal, but not usually when it comes to food. They want fresh everything and that is clear when in France. For example right now in December, they are not shipping in fruit and vegetables from all over the world, like the US where every type of fruit and vegetable seems to be available now year round, just at higher prices. What is for sale is locally grown, although some items will come in from Italy and Spain - so fairly local by European standards. So, for someone to create a business from day-old baguettes is a huge step in French culture - to not throw it out? So, check out this article: http://www.france24.com/en/20121211-french-bakery-old-yesterday-baguette For me, I try to re-purpose our leftovers from extra croissant into croissant french toast (or pan perdu) and taking baguettes, leaving them out for a day or two then using the blender to make fresh bread crumbs (haven't been able to buy bread crumbs here like in the US), trying to make meals from leftovers and so on. Same things I do at home, just better ingredients here.

A more peaceful Provence - fairly tale in Aix

Taking in our trip as it nears the end and we will make our way to Paris on Sunday to spend New Year's eve at a favorite restaurant there. It is much more peaceful here now then in the summer, when it is buzzing with tourists and vacation home owners. It is rare to hear English or other languages, and at night it seems darker on the roads as there are many fewer cars. D.'s car karma is definitely i

mproved without as much traffic, and the country roads are truly that, without other cars pushing us along. The sky last night was so beautiful as clouds cleared and stars came out. We have noticed each town and village we drive through has its own style of decorations, each lovely and charming. The most special has to be in Aix. Last night we were invited to a party in the town center. As we approached the roundabout at Cours Mirabeau, the lights were everywhere, but not in a overwhelming sense, more like something from a Hollywood set, but not even a Hollywood set designer could have made it more beautiful, with a full moon overhead. It was a picture out of a fairy tale, and we felt so fortunate to be her

e and be in that picture. We could not be luckier, especially after the last seven months.

Sheep in Provence

Now I know I already blogged about the Tiger Transport, but today's ride was almost as interesting. After walking the much scaled-down market in Eygalieres and enjoying the shops and people, we were in the 2CV and drove a little past our house toward Biscuits Mistral in St. Andiol. As we approached the roundabout outside Molleges Gare, we see about 200 sheep walking down the road accompanied by two shepherds, one in front, one in back wearing what are likely required reflective vests. The one in front was joined by a dog which he probably needed to round up an errant sheep. Now this is something one doesn't see every day, even in France, or even in farm areas of New Jersey. Having my son with us to experience it was especially fun, particularly after we had already seen the tigers, and now the sheep!! Our future veterinarian was fascinated. And yes, it leads to the question, why did the sheep cross the road? This trip has been meaningful on so many different levels. We have made the most of every day to experience France in the off-season and the holidays and it could not have been better.

Burger King is back in France

Burger King has returned to France - in the Marseilles airport? interesting choice for where to open, but it is certainly a huge crossroads of society in that spot. Very busy with many flights leaving for all over Europe. http://newsfeed.time.com/2012/12/27/oh-la-vache-burger-king-returns-to-france/

Tigers in Avignon

We have had some odd experiences over the years traveling the world, Saturday was another one that was memorable. Driving away from Avignon, on a major street, in fairly nippy weather (40s maybe 50 F) pulled along side of us was a large truck with a cage in the back. The signs read Tiger Transport and sure enough there was a large tiger, in full orange color with stripes, pacing, looking at us and the other cars, maybe wishing he could eat soon. Another large tiger was lying down in an upper more confined cage, contemplating the world outside. A specialty business for sure - Tiger Transport.

The trifecta - the French holy grail

During the last six months we have achieved the French trifecta - the holy grail. For some people, that may have biblical significance, but for us it is all about our French life. To get one is not easy, but three is nearly impossible, particularly as a non-resident. The first we achieved with assistance of a local friend, was purchase of two vehicles, used of course, an alfa romeo break (or wagon) for every day use when we are here. We calculated what we are spending when here on rentals, and realized the purchase would pay for itself within one year. The problem is registering the vehicle. Now that we have a rental home, it definitely makes it easier. It took several visits to the Marie - the town hall, and some back and forth with additional documents, the elusive carte gris was ours. Then, with even more back and forth, forms, and questions, emails, and meetings, we have a bank account in France with the carte blu - the local debit card. Next up, the telepayage - French ezpass. Since we had the bank account, this became the easiest of the three to achieve. Now, we no longer have to play credit card roulette each time we approach a toll on the autoroute. It will change our time here in France, less stress, and feeling more like we really belong here.

Favorite French words

Every so often I learn new French words that speak to my heart: Papillion de nuit - how much nicer way can there be to say moth??? I can't stand moths, as I am always fighting to keep them out of houses in New Jersey and Provence, not wanting them to destroy my clothes. They are horrid little creatures, but in French it just sounds beautiful and charming. Oh well.

Walking the markets

Last summer as we walked the markets, I was so ill. Having just come through major surgery, I came to Provence to heal. Walking was tiring and a huge effort, and took so much energy from me. But each market is special, and I wanted to walk as much as possible, so it became an incentive for me, to walk each day in a different favorite market, to miss nothing and experience everything I could, while I could. Walking the markets each day, getting stronger, and not so tired, and after two weeks to return home ready for chemotherapy, somewhat peaceful, but with the dream of returning to Provence as I have now at the end. So, as I walk the markets on this trip, I see the difference in then versus now, in me and in the people, not hot, not crowded, but energized and grateful.

Changes in St. Remy

As we do each summer, we drive through the town to see what has changed and what remains the same, sadness at losses and closures, but always glad to see new businesses opening up and trying new restaurants. Last summer, we noticed Etik had survived and was improving their menu. The resale shop for furniture had closed and reopened as a bakery, in a spot where no other bakery existed and near a truck stop so maybe this would now survive. Vilebrequin has returned to its shop which had sat empty for about two years, now full of colorful men's bathing suits. As always, Joel Durand, was busy and serving le cube (chocolate covered ice cream). The restaurants were bustling, full of people, eating and drinking, talking and laughing. Joyful at being in Provence. Some things never change and we hope this will always be in Provence.

A conversation about Pickles

Shopping at the Intermarche in St. Remy on Saturday afternoon was an interesting experience. Compared to the US it is so different. We, in every market, have an enormous dairy aisle with milks and butters, eggs, and some yogurts. Here, it is an entire aisle of yogurt. I could not find eggs, it was like a treasure hunt with no hints or clues. We ended up finding eggs at our local epicure. Ground meats are rare, although turkey (dinde) seems to be a meat that is more popular than it has been in France. During my hunt into the aisle with mustard, ketchup and mayo, I found myself standing next to a typical Frenchman, on his cell phone talking probably to his wife discussing his shopping. He was looking at the display of pickles, cornichon, large and small. Apparently his wife wanted something in particular and he knew enough to call and make sure he was getting the correct ones, along with the baguette she wanted. Although after chemo, my French is a bit rusty, and I am struggling, for some reason that piece of dialogue clicked in my brain, but did not buy cornichon.

Christmas Markets

Another Provencal tradition is the christmas markets where people go to purchase local artisan gifts and traditional foods for the holiday meals. On Saturday morning after going to the Avignon flea market, wading through quite a bit of mud and muck to find some odds and ends for the house (nothing goes to waste here in France) which included two night stands, a lovely wall mirror and crocks for coffee tea and sugar (only 35 euro for all of it - negotiating is a must), we headed into Avignon for their market in the town square - centered in the walled city. We had breakfast in a bakery/ice cream shop looking out of the square, then ventured out, including into the town hall (hotel de ville) which contains a provencal christmas tableau. It was pleasant even in the chilly air, but more for tourists and not special for us. In the afternoon when we headed to St. Remy for groceries, we quickly toured to christmas m

arket in the town square there (the main parking lot across from our ice cream shop) where the tents contained all of the local stalls. Many of the vendors were dressed in traditional French country costumes, to add to the festive nature, coffee and treats were served inside, while local people shopped and kissed. Outside were big beautiful horses and a carriage for a ride through town. The market closed on Sunday evening with a bonfire and within hours the tents were gone and everyone had moved on to get ready for Christmas, and the wednesday market. Sunday, when in Isles sur la Sorgue, in addition to the regular Sunday market, there were wooden huts which included the featured holiday items and foods. A pleasant walk through the town this time allowing us to really look at the community and stores (in the summer it is just too hot, too crowded to experience it). In all of the places we've been so far, little English or other languages, almost all French. Also, please make sure to review the posts on Aix for other information and photos- lovely Christmas market on the Cours Mirabeau - walk in the early evening around 5 p.m. so you can ejoy the holiday lights, rides for children, shopping, and people. Fabulous!

French Buzz

Last summer as we sat at Cafe de la Progress in Eygalieres one afternoon, listening and watching, it was like a buzz, like a beehive, full of activity with the worker bees returning from the field to share information about the outside world. That is what the Cafe felt like to us, as we watched the kissing and hugging, the drinking, the conversation, and the table hopping, it was a hive of local people who know each other from winters and summers, from year-round and vacations, and return like lemmings to the same place each day, week or season to share information and energy, the French Buzz. Even in the winter, it is still buzzing in Eygalieres, the same Cafe, kissing and hugging, smoking and drinking, laughter and style continues.

Le Petite Table - Eygalieres

As I was ill last summer, it was difficult for me to contemplate traveling to some of our favorite restaurants, but this one we had seen and not eaten at the previous summer after it opened. It was a really pleasant experience. Set in what used to be a local home, with a small swimming pool, the tables are set in the garden around the pool and patio. There is an interior full dining room, and the bathrooms are very spacious as they used to be actual bathrooms but the showers have been removed. The food was very well-prepared and planned,a more gourmet menu than many local restaurants, service was quite nice and attentive. My dinner included an excellent lobster dish, soup, and a beautifully displayed dessert. Portions were enough but not too much so we did not feel as though we were overeating, even though we ate three courses. We did notice it is open through the holidays, unlike some restaurants here which are season, but we will return either in the spring or next summer. On this trip we are eating more at home, and staying more with bistro-type food.

TGV - a lovely way to travel

Now that we are here in Provence I am catching up on notes I made last summer but was too ill to blog - including the TGV - France's high speed train. D. had taken it several times from Paris to Avignon but I had not yet traveled that way. It is not cheap, but very worthwhile. It is infinitely easier and more relaxing than driving, particularly after flying overnight and arriving early in the morning on NY time. Instead of a seven-hour drive from Paris, we arrive in about 3 hours, more rested as we have nap time on the train, along with toilettes, so we are not losing time to traffic and stopping in rest stops to stretch and use the bathroom. Tickets can be purchased online via SNCF's website. We don't recommend going through others who do sell the tickets because anytime we've tried it, D. runs into problems. Better to go direct even if it costs a little more. First class means a reserved seat which is quite comfortable. Second class is not reserved but still nicer than most US trains, even Amtrak to Washington. As with almost everything French, there is a food car with a very nice menu, including for children, and contains bio (organic) foods. We always notice everyone buying food and walking through the cars with their purchases, smelling very tempting. Naturally, the French include their dogs in all occasions including train travel, and the dogs are everywhere including the aisles and under the seats, always well-behaved. We look forward to Avril joining us on the train next summer.

Provencal Holidays - no christmas sweaters

Like holidays around the world, the winter holiday season in Provence is all about food, and food with cultural symbolism. The 13 desserts arises from the last supper, and the 12 who attended it plus Jesus, so 13 is not considered an unlucky number here. The bouche de noel is all over in each bakery, and even in our favorite ice cream shop in St. Remy as an ice cream cake. When we walked through town yesterday to the cheese shop we decided to drink coffee at the ice cream shop which had just opened at 11:30 a.m. and the locals were already lined up to pick up their orders, pastry, ice cream cake, and other goodies. It was a 12 on a 1-10 people watching scale. The interactions, the style, the response to receiving their orders. Not significantly different then the US, but with more style, and calmer. The decorations here are pleasant, subtle, and not overpowering. Santa is almost no where to be found, and haven't seen any reindeer - no Rudolph, and very importantly - no Christmas sweaters!

Gratitude

As always this time of year, we can look back and review the last twelve months and my family and I have been through so much. As always, working hard to pay bills so we can afford to travel and experienced the world. But this year was especially difficult, since June, fighting my way to recover from major surgery and cancer treatment, and the effects it has had on my husband and son, clients, and friends. It is an experience that makes one grateful for everything and nothing all at the same time. Arriving here in Provence I feel tremendous joy to be here, and experience a different season in Provence, to add a little something to our lives which we all need so much after the trials we have shared until now. The sky today, although a little overcast, was still beautiful, colorful, but softer, the scenery lovely and green, although not as lush as the summer, and even more peaceful and serene without the hustle of push of summer tourism. The style is not unlike New York, sweaters, jeans, boots, much black clothing, but for most people always a scarf with style. The food is already noticeably more seasonal, without the same fresh fruit and produce we enjoy all summer. Clearly, not shipping in fruit from around the world, just eating what is produced more locally and seasonally. Many seasonal treats related to the holidays, be it nougat, dried fruit, special breads and desserts including bouche noel (which we will be enjoying for tonight's dessert), and so much more. We are so fortunate to be here and to share this experience with all of you readers!!

US Airways via Philadelphia - excellent travel

We left Thursday night from Philadelphia, with about 30 minutes of traffic near the airport we were a little concerned as we entered the terminal about clearing security on time. We picked Phili because since Sandy, JFK is rather difficult to get through, and Air France is no longer flying from Newark. Continental/United was very expensive, and US Air had very reasonable prices for the season. Despite our worries, it was amazing, the nicest airline and TSA staff of any airport we have traveled through in several years. We were through with time to spare. Very easy check-in for an international flight. TSA staff was pleasant and professional, especially given my medical situation. Airline staff allowed me to board early with no problems. S. commented that as airline food goes, the food was pretty good (I almost never eat on a plane other than a bagel I bring with me). Seats were comfortable. An overall A+ travel experience.

French trends for holidays 2012

Here's a blog about trends for the holidays in France - two books would love to have on my sony reader but are not there yet, as well as movies to watch for and how Fifty Shades of Grey did in translation (not my kind of book) - travel to Tunisia - getting my mind in a France state: http://josephbamat.blogs.france24.com/article/2012/12/20/france-consumer-trends-2012-best-selling-most-sold-films-car-music--0

Groupon.fr - tips

We have subscribed to groupon in france since summer 2011 and watch it regularly to see if there are worthwhile restaurant groupons. Sometimes yes, sometimes no. Suggestions include being very careful. Look at restaurant menu on line to ensure that it is a good deal, as sometimes it isn't. Take a look at reviews in tripadvisor to see if it is a restaurant that interests you, in the right location, so you are not wasting money. On this trip, for example, we want to remain flexible, depending on how I feel, weather, when we want to cook versus eat out, so groupons are not high on our priority list. We've had some good luck here in NJ with groupons, including the daily ones which you have to use that day for a quick inexpensive lunch or dinner. But these are restaurants we know in towns we know and are convinced it is a good deal. So, as an overall statement, groupon can be a good deal, with proper research and planning.

Almost there - le reve de Provence

For us, not for everyone, this is the dream, the life or lifestyle, the place, the scents, the food, the colors, particularly in the summer. In only a few days, after a long six months of medical treatment, we will be on the plane, flying back to our dream, but for the holidays. We are so looking forward to being in our home there, to walking the markets, to enjoying the differences of summer versus winter with clothes, food, colors, and people - pure pleasure for us. The people watching should be fabulous - our favorite spectator sport. I am reading my favorite French real estate publications to get my mind back into the language and have already packed, trying to keep it simple of course - just carry on and a coat. Poor Avril will not be joining us as the trip is too short, but she will have a great time at her pet hotel and she will return to her country in June. Bon voyage!!

A McBagel in France?

It sounds so weird, a burger on a bagel. Apparently, McDonald's is following its burger on a baguette with a burger on a bagel, rather than with a schmeer and some lox (they definitely have smoked salmon in France). Using English names too. We'll be there soon so D. may have to sample one and report for me, as I haven't eaten a burger since 1978, and I don't plan on stating now. http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/11/30/mcdonalds-bagel-burgers-france_n_2217901.html