Chefs in France and eco-friendly menus

Ahhhh, an article in Time magazine:

http://www.time.com/time/world/article/0,8599,2037894,00.html

36 Hours in Paris

As always, the NY Times has a great article about Paris:

http://travel.nytimes.com/2010/12/19/travel/19hours-paris.html?ex=1308632400&en=027f61bc073ced96&ei=5087&WT.mc_id=TR-D-I-NYT-MOD-MOD-M181-ROS-1210-HDR&WT.mc_ev=click

For foodies traveling in Paris

some great ideas and photos:

www.huffingtonpost.com/travelsort/best-pastries-paris_b_763003.html

no question that No. 1 Pierre Herme for chocolate and pastry. Unbelievable.

It's true - the French hate to sweat.

Check it out - great article about the French and gym culture.

http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20100927/lf_nm_life/us_fitness_france

Of course, their rates of obesity are much lower than here. Do they know something we don't about unprocessed foods? Mass transit and walking?

Beaucaire/Tarascon and Moules

We made it back to Beaucaire for moules three times during our trip. Once was excellent at our usual spot, Nord/Sud but then we deviated which is always a mistake. We had D's father with us and his lovely girlfriend and we knew that they would not eat mussels but would enjoy the location and the view. So we ventured to another restaurant down the street but with the canal view. The food was very mediocre, but the view wonderful, and it was the spot that night for anyone with a dog.

So on one of our last nights we tried again for moules but drove into a parade grounds. It turns out that each year Beaucaire has a famous provence parade each year during July and we had driven into the traffic and people gathering for the parade, and the route would go just in front of our restaurant. D. parked and we walked back to the restaurant, parking ourselves along the street to watch the people watching the parade, and for us to watch the parade participants from very young to very old, people proud to walk, ride or dance in the event and having a wonderful time.

After it was over, we were finally able to get seated and eat a quick dinner. In all the crowd was quite well-behaved except a few young people, with the police chasing down one young man and his friends actually tried to intervene and physically touch the police officer. In the US that would provoke a very strong response, but in France, the police stayed amazingly calm but forceful in affecting their arrest. No weapons pulled, and the crowd certainly supported their actions.

The parade had everything, singers, dancers, horses, floats, but all provencal style with a theme of dancers from around the world. Of course the US was portrayed with country-western style dancers and music. We couldn't have hip-hop or jazz? or even Elvis? Oh well.

It was the end of our trip and we truly enjoyed the unexpected parade.

Cultural Differences part 2

Another experience we shared this summer was with our German host and friends, watching the World Cup competition as Germany rose to the semi-finals. Whenever a world cup game was being played, it was on the television in the bars, stores, restaurants, people gathering around the television wherever they were to watch. It reminded me of how we used to pay attending to the World Series years ago, with boys sneaking radios into school to listen during class.

Of course we also shared the despair when France lost in the early round, and then Germany did not win their semi-final game. It is almost a national depression as each country pours so much of their national identity and pride into their teams. It is way beyond our devotion to the Olympics or any of our national sports.

Another cultural difference - money, how we spend it, how we view it. Europeans seem to be so used to living with less, being so much more careful about how they spend their money. They are taxed heavily, but have the security regarding their homes, their health care and pensions that we don't have. They truly watch what they spend on utilities, while we merely complain about it. They drive smaller cars and really use mass transit (it exists there) while we talk big about big oil, but don't have the political will to do anything about it. Look at the mass strikes happening in France and Spain today about proposed changes to the pension systems.

We need to learn.

Other food finds of 2010

In addition to the bio coop outside Cavaillon, we also found near the gare (the former train station area) in St. Remy a nice bio store (i.e. a health food store with organic products).

I learned that BIO is really pronounced Bee-Oh, which just reminds we Americans of body odor.

And again we purchased the best olive oil we have ever had from La Fabresse. It can be bought in a store in St. Remy or at the market on Fridays in Eygallieres. It is hard to describe what makes it so wonderful. It has a fresh, unprocessed taste of green. Like D. says, it is liquid gold.

Bread Quest 2010

During our time in France we continued the annual bread quest. We tried from local boullangeries in St. Remy, Molleges, St. Andiol and other towns, but always came back to Javaud my find from last summer. Fortunately after a little research on le web, I found that Javoud has a store in the Cap Sud mall on the road into Avignon, it was lovely with fresh everything. But we found it important to get there before lunch otherwise there are no baguettes left.

The crumble (like a muffin-top with fruit) was some very worthwhile calories.

Smoking up a storm

Smoking is like the plague in the US. It is becoming increasingly rare and socially unacceptable. At least in NYC, LA, NJ, you can't smoke in a restaurant or bar. I remember smoking in the cafeteria and dorms in college which would never be allowed today.

So, when we travel to Europe it is always culture shock when it comes to the amount of smoking (and drinking) going on. It is truly amazing to watch our German friends and acquaintances talk so much about healthy eating and digestion (but grill their meat to a crunchy burnt crisp), and exercise but then light up and down the booze.

It is a true dichotomy that makes no sense. I suppose they view the drinking and smoking as a social requirement, but it is overpowering and expensive.

I remember when smoking in the office was allowed and cigarettes could be found in the vending machines in every restaurant and gas station for 50 cents per pack. Now, I don't even know what a pack costs, vending machines have been banned, and a carton costs over $100. It is surprising to see that smoking is more common in poorer communities when it is so expensive and has such significant health consequences.

Even in Europe they do try to segregate smokers, but without success. There really is not possible to avoid smoking especially when sitting outside on the terrace of the restaurants, and at any public event.

Europe is ahead of us in so many ways in health care, and energy conservation, but so far behind in this area. At least they are trying to catch up, while we lag so far behind them in the other areas with no interest in even trying to match them.

The Taste of France

When we return home, as we have now, we try to remember the differences of here and there. The most important for us is the freshness, the taste of the food, the beauty of the place which lives in the fruit and vegetables. It is not something that can be truly described. But when I come home, I am reminded again and again, how our food has been deluged with chemicals and processing to tastelessness. It may look good, but the flavor has been washed out of it somehow. Maybe it is our water or our soil, but it is a huge void. Maybe we are always eating so much because the food lacks flavor and we drown it in spices and sauces to make it taste like something, it can never achieve.

Something I found in our little shop in St. Remy and now notice in other shops is a peche de la vigne, it is an almost flat peach, which tastes so sweet and light, the way I remember peaches tasting as a child, and the taste I search for every summer when I eat even organic peaches and find them lacking.

Fette de Paella

And again, we attended what is now the 14th annual paella festival in Eygellieres, always the night before Bastille Day.

We spent more time in that town on this trip, learning that it is a place where everyone knows one another, that we can stroll down the street and find people even we know. It is rather like being on the upper east side of NYC, with local pubs, like the Cafe du la Place with its small tables, odd quirky bathroom, excellent tapinade and very cold drinks. Hard to get a table on any day, much less market days, and to sit and watch the scene is great fun, cars pulling up and much kissing and hugging, smoking, drinking and laughing.

The fette was fun as always, great food, great entertainment, and many people and dogs, on a night full of charm and community, not an American style barbecue, that is certain. In America it would be beer, hot dogs, hamburgers and watermelon. In France, it is paella, Cavaillon melon (which is nothing like the melon we have in the States), baguettes, cheese, and ice cream, and lots of wine. The cafes bring drinks to the tables and water for the dogs and everyone dances into the morning.

More Avignon at Night

As you can see from this photo, the ferris wheel in the distance, which is off outside the city walls, an rises high over the city on the banks of the river giving a spectacular view of the city inside and out, the river, the modern windmills in the distance, the anachronism of ancient and modern all mixed up.

.

St. Remy de Provence

We always enjoy market day, Wens., in St. Remy. As with most French markets, going early is better in the summer to avoid the heat and the crowds. One of our goals this year was to really pay attention to vendors in the markets we go to each week so we could learn which ones have the best local foods. We realized that our favorite cheese vendor from the Apt market is also each week in St. Remy and in Eygallieres. We recognize the clothes and tablecloth vendors. It took D. about 15 seconds to insult one in Apt by asking whether the cloths were manufactured in China (they are) even if they are designed in France (they are) and finished in France (they are). We saw the same vendor in St. Remy and knew to avoid him.

street theater in avignon

Avignon, the city of popes, is a beautiful, walled city that is famous for its university and charm. But more importantly, it is famous for its annual summer theater festival, held in July each year. It is difficult to contemplate attending the productions unless your French is fairly fluent, but just to walk the streets, and enjoy the young actors as they entertain you trying to sell you on their production, is entertainment enough. Then there are the singers, musicians and dancers, jugglers, and so many other forms of street theater, it is fascinating, the energy exciting.

In Avignon, there are many good restaurants, but somehow we always end up at this small Vietnamese restaurant which is inexpensive and friendly service. Usually after a few weeks of French food it is a refreshing change.

The actors spend hours and days before the festival begins hanging posters advertising their performances all over the city, climbing walls and poles going ever higher than their competitors, only to tear them all down after their show has closed.

Favorite Provence Markets

Still contemplating and digesting our trip and in doing so, compiled our list of markets we enjoy. This is by no means comprehensive. I am attaching links to other lists of Provence area market days.

Tuesday: Apt

Wens. : St. Remy

Friday : Eygellieres

Sat. : Apt

Sunday : Isle Sur La Sorge (a must see but get there very early as it gets crowded quickly).

Every day: Avignon (les Halles)

Aix

Valleron (evenings 6-8p for fruits and vegetables)

next year we will be traveling to Vaison La Romaine on a Monday

Nyons on a thursday and St. Martin du Crau for a Friday market for comparison.

Here are the links to other lists:

http://www.provence-hideaway.com/303.html

http://provence.angloinfo.com/information/7/markets.asp

Bon chance.

Is the Riviera O-V-E-R?

Clearly some people think so:

http://www.thedailybeast.com/blogs-and-stories/2010-08-16/yacht-scene-in-st-tropez-monte-carlo-goes-downhill/

http://www.thedailybeast.com/blogs-and-stories/2010-08-10/the-mysterious-burglar-on-the-french-riviera/full/full/

We have spent much time on the French Riviera and would have to agree with these articles. Safety was definitely a concern even five years ago in Cannes, as we heard stories from people we knew who had homes locally about being robbed. Also, we noted increasing hotel security and other issues. We were advised to watch our children carefully due to kidnapping threats etc.

Although we still enjoy a day in St. Tropez, as it is beautiful and fun, but it does not have the glamour it used to have. But it is always an enjoyable, hot, day at the beach and a nice dinner then back to the peace and quiet (except for the cicadas) of Provence.

Alice Waters and Provence

Beautiful article about Alice Waters and her love of Provence:

http://www.thedailybeast.com/blogs-and-stories/2010-08-14/alice-waters-on-her-favorite-summer-foods-from-a-french-vineyard/?cid=hp:mainpromo6

We're home and contemplating

the trip. It went by so fast, I am still digesting and thinking about what we saw, what we experienced. But over the next several days and weeks, I will add photos and info.

As an overall statement, the trip was wonderful, as always. Provence to us is like Paradise, but it is only temporary and we get only glimpses of what it is like to live there. We don't experience the hardships, particularly of the winter weather and the spring rains. We are not working on a farm or another business to survive. We are merely transient visitors, enjoying the bliss and wonder as we sit in the garden, under the plane tree and watch the sky change its tone of blue, the breeze blowing through the trees, and listen to the throbbing of the cicadas in the heat of the day.

And we have the opportunity to bring home pieces of Provence to remember the trip by, a beautiful tablecloth, or lavender potpouri, and of course our photos and memories.

French Laundry

We always hear that term in the US but what does it really mean? When you travel for a month, you really need to do laundry and it is not always so simple. Finding a laundromat here - a laverie automatique is not what one would expect. Since there are so many apartment dwellers, I assumed a laundromat would exist in every town but not so. Apparently, inexpensive portable washing machines are common, and so much wash is done by hand with few using driers, that laundromats are not easily found.

We looked for one nearby and initially thought we had found one in St. Remy, but we drove to find it and quickly learned, thanks to D.'s keen eye, that it is not a self-laundry, and more importantly, that it is a blanchisserie, meaning the women who do the wash, only wash whites, sheets, towels, etc. Who would know that the French have so much white wash? Is that what French Laundry really means?

Well, we invested instead in a portable machine which holds more than I expected, and works very well. And in a day of four small loads, got the wash done. Now, the next step will be storage for this and other items we keep here, and for use in next summer's house.

More learning - as I've written before, the French government regulates sales and allows only two per year. The sales (solde) begin in Paris. I learned today that the sale in the region we are in starts one week later so that the Parisians can stay for their sale, then transit to their vacations and enjoy the beginning of the sale there too.

Emily redux

So we are back driving with Emily, the voice of our trusted Garmin GPS, as she takes us through France. She continues to mangle the names of every street, but we safely arrive at our destination without fail.

Yesterday our excursion included Fontvielle, which had some charming restaurants (and we will return to one on Saturday night - le Planet), and an interesting chateau with camping grounds and a very nice public swimming pool; to Mausanne des Alpilles, and via an autoroute did did not know existed, the A54, south to Aix to walk, shop at Lancel and Minelli and have a dinner at Cafe Verdun. The sales were just beginning so today, D. returned again to Aix very early, so as to be present for the opening of the Minelli shoe sale at 8:00 a.m. He came home with 4 pairs of beautiful Italian-made shoes at 40-50% off.

I did not purchase any bags at Lancel this year (yet) because D. had bought me several beautiful bags in Hong Kong on his last trip. But the Lancel designs this year are truly elegant and classic.

In the market this morning in San Remy, I returned once again to the Scottish woman who sells colorful and feminine scarves in the weekly market. Her prices this year are spot-on - 10euro per item, and she is selling one of my favorites, the same bag hooks I buy in Hong Kong and mainland China. The world economy is so truly inter-connected and international in scope now.

Tonight was World Cup soccer with our very disappointed friends from Germany. A German-style barbecue with plenty of grilled to a crisp meat (not for me).

Two days ago it was travel to Pernes Les Fontaines, a nice village with 40 fountains scattered through the town, with a walk along what is now a small stream, but in the spring must be more water filling the channel. Each town here has its own attractions, focal point, and beauty, its own reasons for history and its existence.

Who knows what tomorrow will bring other than more sun and more beauty.

End of First Week - Bliss

So, already a week in to the trip. Don't really know where the time has gone. Sleeping alot. Listening to music, and reading three books already. Cooking, exploring, shopping, the usual things.

D. had to return to the US for two days of important business meetings, so I was driving the Renault 6-speed manual for that time. It was quite enjoyable on the Autoroute and on the local roads to remember how to shift, down-shift and really focus on driving. When I drive an automatic, it is entirely different as I am less focused and my mind can wander more.

So on Wens. the dog and I got up early and ventured to the St. Remy market, arriving at 9a.m. and noticing not many people, some new vendors, but 95% of the same ones, in their same spots. The days here have been very hot, 90F, so early is definitely better, especially with the dog. Many people had the same ideas, and dogs of all shapes, sizes and varieties were out enjoying the day.

As always, I stocked up on spices and dried lavender for the year, examined the latest in Provence fashion, and walked the town. Most businesses have survived the Great Recession, a few new ones opened, a few have closed, and our favorite ice cream spot was renovated over the winter and is now much more swank. With S. one evening I found a new spot for wonderful local produce and products, mostly biologic (organic) and certainly where local St. Remy people shop. We have committed this year to trying more of the small stores, the butchers and cheese shops, that are struggling to survive against the supermarche' and Carrefore's of the area, just as at home these stores have disappeared. Who has a real butcher any more in their town? We feel fortunate to have a bakery near our house, however mediocre it can be at times.

Upon D's return, we traveled today to the market in Eygalieres to find our favorite olive oil, and to explore the town a little more. It is small but rather like the upper East Side of the area. Dogs and people out for a stroll. We sat in our favorite cafe, drank Perrier, and enjoyed the show of people as they walked and shopped. We watched one American family as the mother tried to negotiate the price of the best Olive Oil in the country La Fabresse, who has one the national medal for Olive Oil the last two years. Eating that oil on a piece of bread is a revelation. So to hear someone arguing over the price of the $12 bottle of oil seemed quite absurd. We will be back in that town on July 13 for the annual Fete' de Paella.

So we wandered and watched as the vendors made the paella for the day's lunch, and admired the nouget that we will never eat. It is white with nuts and chewy, and too sweet for us. But, as always with food here, it is a piece of art.

The afternoon was about quiet, sleeping and reading, as it should be.

We're baaaaack!!!

We landed Friday morning for France 2010. It was not easy, even though we were organized and shipped three boxes with mostly clothes, and some health food products I can't get here. It was still a difficult journey. So much to organize to leave with each of us running a business now, and getting the dog here as well. When we arrived at Terminal B in Newark/Liberty airport, the construction was overwhelming, road repaving, and other work left the terminal with no AC and I thought the ticket agent who was checking me in was going to faint from the heat and humidity. Fortunately, I had filled the dog's water bottle with ice and only a little water so she had cold water for most of the flight.

We were delayed an hour due to the late arrival of our plane. D.'s plane was going through Montreal and we would meet in Paris. He had the free ticket on Continental while I had to pay for Air France. But his plane was delayed leaving Newark and he and S. (my son) were the last to make it on board. The one bag they checked did not follow until the next day.

Fortunately, we were staying overnight in Paris at the Sheraton CDG in the airport. We ventured into Paris to our mainstay Chez Andre on Rue Marbeouf, to meet a college classmate with whom I reconnected at a recent reunion. She has lived in Paris for 20 years, and works at Hermes, how fabulous is that!

We had a lovely meal, nice company, with perfect weather. I gather that the weather in Europe has been terrible. When we arrived yesterday afternoon and stopped at our favorite farmstand to get some basics for the house, we chatted (I should say D. chatted, I listened) with the owner who told us about the weather for the last two weeks was terrible, high winds, and much rain, not good for the cherries and apricots.

When we arrived at the house we were sad to learn that one of our favorite trees, a beautiful apricot tree, had to be cut down after it became uprooted in one of the heavy storms, the mistral, during the last two weeks of bad weather.

But we moved in, exhausted, I unpacked while D. went shopping to Auchon because the stores would be closed on Sunday. And then we went into St. Remy for a late dinner at Bistro de Alpilles which has changed its menu substantially, but was wonderful as always.

Today, we slept on and off, watching some world cup with our German host and his friends. And I made a late dinner and we sat outside and enjoyed the air and light. I thought that however much I love being here, a Starbucks decaf cappuccino skim would be perfect tonight, but I won't be having that for a month.

We were spending some time also getting used to our new iphone 4g - which D. had decided we should have before we left, so there we were the morning we were leaving getting up at 5:30am, and on line at the store at 6:30am, and getting our reserved phones activated and out the door by 9:15 am, so not terrible, but stressful, to then get on the plane with a phone I am not familiar with. But fun and an adventure.

But now we will settle in and explore old and find new favorites.

More from the NY Times - Bordeaux

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/06/20/travel/20hours.html?src=me&ref=homepage

Haiku - attempt.

1.

A first trip to provence

In hot lavender july

Breathing olives and sunflowers

Mon premier voyage vers la Provence

En lavande chaude juillet

Je respire des olives et des tournesols

2.

the cold crispness of fall

like biting into apples

fresh from the trees – crunch

la croustillance froide de la chute

comme mordre dans des pommes

frais des arbres - craquement

3.

on the first day first class

overwhelming fear anxiousness

to find welcoming joy in language

sur ma première classe de premier jour

J'ai fait face à l'anxiousness primordialement de crainte pour trouver seulement faire bon accueil à la joie dans la langue

rU 261 - EU airline regs

who knew - this is an important article for those traveling to europe this summer:

if you flight is delayed or canceled:

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/37661370/ns/travel-tips/

Already in Provence

Yes, it is May, and in May in my world, my mind begins to wander to Provence. Although our house is already reserved and tickets purchased, we begin planning supplied and clothes and deciding what we need to buy in advance, what we need to send ahead (this year not much), and begin to work harder to finish everything we need to do before we get on the plane.

But today, when the temperature was to reach 90 degrees, my mind was already in Provence, as I dressed this morning in linen slacks and a t-shirt, and picked out my bag, sunglasses and shoes, as if I was going to walk through the market in St. Remy or have lunch in Apt or Aix, I have been infected yet again with the attitude and comfort I find there. And I wish I could maintain it year-round, but I can sustain it for only a few months after I return (our French class for 11 weeks helped), and maybe begin again a month or two before we travel again.

In the years when we are able to travel to Paris during the winter, we can get infused once again. This spring we were unable to complete our French class as planned, but that probably would have helped sustain the disease, and taken us to the brink of when we travel. But maybe next year we will try yet again.

But we are beginning the wind up to the wind down, and my mind will be getting ready to let down, unwrap and slip sideways.

NY Times nails it

As always, the Times gets it right about France in this wonderful article about Longuedoc:

http://travel.nytimes.com/2010/05/09/travel/09Languedoc.html?pagewanted=1&hpw

Other notes on Hong Kong

But not mine - from a reporter for CNN who lives there:

http://www.cnn.com/2010/TRAVEL/05/07/lustout.hongkong/index.html?hpt=Sbin

The French and speaking French.

Another gem from the Times:

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/04/25/arts/25abroad.html

The exchange rate for the summer

Looking better this year

http://travel.nytimes.com/2010/04/18/travel/18praceuro.html

Young Paris Chefs

Another great NY Times article:

http://travel.nytimes.com/2010/04/18/travel/18prixfixe.html?pagewanted=1&hpw

Hidden Paris

Another great article thanks to NY Times.

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/03/28/fashion/28hiddenparis.html

Last year's article but very worthwhile

For those Picasso fans, this was a fabulous article about Picasso in Southern France and some lovely places to visit:

http://travel.nytimes.com/2009/05/24/travel/24cultured.html?scp=3&sq=antibes&st=tcse

Wow - Spring in Paris

And so much to see, do and eat:

http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/03/03/paris-preview/?hpw

Oyster Thefts

Article about Oyster thefts in France and history of the industry:

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/02/27/business/global/27oysters.html

cheap paris?

Check it out - another from NY Times

http://travel.nytimes.com/2009/06/28/travel/28frugalparis.html?em

What's best country to live in? you know . . . .

this article says it all - best health care, best quality of life, not what is happening here in the good 'ol USA:

http://www.cnn.com/2010/WORLD/europe/02/11/france.quality.life/index.html?hpt=T2

French identity

The ongoing debate about French identity and culture:

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/02/09/world/europe/09france.html?ref=todayspaper

French concepts of service

This is a fantastic, on-point article from the BBC, about getting service in Paris - but sounds like most places in France.

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/programmes/from_our_own_correspondent/8500246.stm

Say Cheese - Parlez Fromage?

article about French cheeses:

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2010/02/03/frances-distinctive-chees_n_448474.html

Art in Paris

Another great article from the NY Times:

http://travel.nytimes.com/2010/01/31/travel/31headsup.html

More on learning languages

A review/discussion of self-directed programs to learn languages including Rosetta Stone:

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/01/28/technology/personaltech/28basics.html?em

More Food in Paris

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/01/27/dining/27pari.html

Jamin in Paris

Interesting article from NY Times about this restaurant and Paris foodie history:

http://intransit.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/01/19/a-famed-parisian-kitchen-is-reborn/?hp