Sobriety checkpoint in Provence - a important first

D. has been traveling in France for nearly 50 years, but this evening he experienced a first. On our way home on local roads from Le Bistrot du Paradou, as we approached the left turn in the road from Maussane les Alpilles toward Les Baux, we noticed the car before us stopping and three Gendarmes standing by the side of the road with reflective vests, approaching that car. We then saw them approaching us, pointing for D. to pull forward, and with a gadget in their hands the first one walked to the driver's side. We knew immediately we were in for an interesting and novel experience - a French breathalyzer test in the roadway.

D. got confused about the directions and whether to exhale or inhale, and the Gendarmes were laughing, and trying to help him, the two others came over when it became clear that we were Americans. D. was thankful that although he had two glasses of wine with dinner (as always I do not drink), we had sat for about an hour after his last drink, through cheese and dessert and paying the bill.

Eventually, after a few attempts, I don't believe they got an accurate read, they let us go. It was certainly a life lesson that even in France they are paying attention to drunk driving.

You may want to take a look at this excellent explanation of French drunk driving laws from French Entree:

http://www.frenchentree.com/france-holiday/displayarticle.asp?id=19756

They are not messing around and you want to take this seriously rather than ruin your vacation.

Perfection - Le Bistrot Du Paradou

We have given up on St. Remy restaurants this week, after being burned on one dinner last week at a usually good spot, but the restaurants in town have definitely changed since Bastille Day, and the advent of high season. The crowd has changed to more tourists, as more locals and French who have vacation homes here, now go to more remote spots, or eat at home.

We have had many meals here in Provence this summer, but this evening's was quite exceptional, and not expensive at 49 euro prix fixe for soup to nuts, in this case, a soup au pistou full of garlic and basil, roast chicken with potatoes gratin, zuchini and tomato farci, wine, coffee, an enormous platter of cheese from which you can select what you would like (yes with fig confiture), and a lovely dessert. Too much food in fact, even for both of us, as we were quite hungry when we arrived at 8:30 for dinner.

The setting is unusual, on the main road from Maussane les Alpilles to Fontvielle, with a large seating area outside, but it is used only for a welcome aperitif, which was quite pleasant, especially tonight with a breeze. Then, when you are ready you are seated inside in the very warm and comfortable interior, which a large bar running the length of the dinning room, an open kitchen off to one side with a special chef's table next to it. The kitchen was open so I could observe all the meals being plated as the tables and waiters were ready.


Everything was well-prepared, very classic Provencal country-style food. The crowd, although included some French, was more American and British this evening. The walls in the restaurant were covered in celebrity photos, possibly of those who have eaten there. And, this evening, I did notice one older French gentlemen whose portrait was on the wall, in a younger era.

We will return one more time during the week, as this was a Saturday night, to see if there is a different crowd, and how the menu changes. A memorable meal which continued into an interesting experience on the way home - look at the next post for more.

A starry night in Provence - La Table in Fontvielle

The weather has been strange here this summer, unusually cool and rainy, but seems to be finally clearing. Tonight, the stars are shinning, the constellations easily seen since there are so few ground lights here. One forgets sometimes what the sky can look like at night, sparkling and vast. A starry night, filled with

wonder if this is the same sky as Van Gogh saw in his painting, while he lived in Arles and here in St. Remy.

A beautiful evening for a dinner outside in a back garden in Fontveielle at a little spot called La Table de Meurnier, very quirky, friendly, and interesting, each waiter with character and personality, country-style regional food. Inexpensive and more than enough to eat for a full menu. The desserts were especially satisfying, particularly the Pavlov which was involved a big dish of various sorbets, chantilly cream, berries, and meringue. Usually it has rum in it, but the waiter left it out for us. A single serving was enough for about four people.

We will return next summer on another starry night.

Beautiful interview and discussion (on CNN) about America and France

With eminent historian David McCullough about his new book. I have it downloaded and ready to go, it will be next book I'll be reading.

http://globalpublicsquare.blogs.cnn.com/2011/07/28/david-mccullough-on-why-americans-were-once-fascinated-by-france/?hpt=hp_bn2

Fete du Chien - La Verdiere

As mentioned in an earlier post, we attended the dog show on July 24 in La Verdiere, a town high on a hill in the middle of nowhere. It was a windy day but beautiful, lots of people and lots of dogs. mostly hunting dogs. No tourists, no English spoken. The show was well-organized although difficult to park on narrow tiny roads, we all managed. Avril was in her element smelling and listening to other dogs, in their pens in the shade.

Many hounds, only one PBGV who was a visitor. Spaniels, and pointers, but not hearding dogs. A few terriers and smaller dogs as they always are easy to sell. Fortunately, in reading the flier I noticed that even dogs visiting as well as showing had to have a tattoo and proof of vaccination, which was checked before we could pay and get our hands stamped. The dogs were all on display, clearly a goal from the breeders was to sell puppies and we did observe a few being sold. The breeders were not expensive and included vaccinations, papers, and tattoo.

We were interested to see many breeds not in the US, including a Griffon Blu, and a Basset Britagne. The blu was a larger griffon, scruffy with blue/grey mixed rough-coated fur and scruffy face. The britagne was like Avril but all brown. We could definitely go for that one. But D. was obsessed with the Grand basset griffon's although way too much dog for me, they were adorable. He wanted to take one home immediately, all I visualize was the dog running around our house and destroying it. Too much energy, but happy.

There was no beauty contest like in the US or at least I couldn't find it. There was a bird-calling contest, and other hunting-related activities and vendors. The agility and other working dog activities were in the afternoon, but we needed to head out to Venelles, so maybe next year, as this was the 42d annual show in this location and by this club.

Solar Farm Verdon

During our drive to the Var heading to the fete du chien - the dog show - as always we were looking for solar installations in the countryside. Some are residential, some commercial. The most surprising was a large (about 11 megawatt) solar farm feeding the electrical substation next door. It was in the middle of nowhere, in an unused field next to the road. Fantastic.

Buying property in France

Here is a very useful website loaded with information and suggestions, very organized, thorough and informative:

http://www.frenchentree.com/property/