We're home and contemplating

the trip. It went by so fast, I am still digesting and thinking about what we saw, what we experienced. But over the next several days and weeks, I will add photos and info.

As an overall statement, the trip was wonderful, as always. Provence to us is like Paradise, but it is only temporary and we get only glimpses of what it is like to live there. We don't experience the hardships, particularly of the winter weather and the spring rains. We are not working on a farm or another business to survive. We are merely transient visitors, enjoying the bliss and wonder as we sit in the garden, under the plane tree and watch the sky change its tone of blue, the breeze blowing through the trees, and listen to the throbbing of the cicadas in the heat of the day.

And we have the opportunity to bring home pieces of Provence to remember the trip by, a beautiful tablecloth, or lavender potpouri, and of course our photos and memories.

French Laundry

We always hear that term in the US but what does it really mean? When you travel for a month, you really need to do laundry and it is not always so simple. Finding a laundromat here - a laverie automatique is not what one would expect. Since there are so many apartment dwellers, I assumed a laundromat would exist in every town but not so. Apparently, inexpensive portable washing machines are common, and so much wash is done by hand with few using driers, that laundromats are not easily found.

We looked for one nearby and initially thought we had found one in St. Remy, but we drove to find it and quickly learned, thanks to D.'s keen eye, that it is not a self-laundry, and more importantly, that it is a blanchisserie, meaning the women who do the wash, only wash whites, sheets, towels, etc. Who would know that the French have so much white wash? Is that what French Laundry really means?

Well, we invested instead in a portable machine which holds more than I expected, and works very well. And in a day of four small loads, got the wash done. Now, the next step will be storage for this and other items we keep here, and for use in next summer's house.

More learning - as I've written before, the French government regulates sales and allows only two per year. The sales (solde) begin in Paris. I learned today that the sale in the region we are in starts one week later so that the Parisians can stay for their sale, then transit to their vacations and enjoy the beginning of the sale there too.

Emily redux

So we are back driving with Emily, the voice of our trusted Garmin GPS, as she takes us through France. She continues to mangle the names of every street, but we safely arrive at our destination without fail.

Yesterday our excursion included Fontvielle, which had some charming restaurants (and we will return to one on Saturday night - le Planet), and an interesting chateau with camping grounds and a very nice public swimming pool; to Mausanne des Alpilles, and via an autoroute did did not know existed, the A54, south to Aix to walk, shop at Lancel and Minelli and have a dinner at Cafe Verdun. The sales were just beginning so today, D. returned again to Aix very early, so as to be present for the opening of the Minelli shoe sale at 8:00 a.m. He came home with 4 pairs of beautiful Italian-made shoes at 40-50% off.

I did not purchase any bags at Lancel this year (yet) because D. had bought me several beautiful bags in Hong Kong on his last trip. But the Lancel designs this year are truly elegant and classic.

In the market this morning in San Remy, I returned once again to the Scottish woman who sells colorful and feminine scarves in the weekly market. Her prices this year are spot-on - 10euro per item, and she is selling one of my favorites, the same bag hooks I buy in Hong Kong and mainland China. The world economy is so truly inter-connected and international in scope now.

Tonight was World Cup soccer with our very disappointed friends from Germany. A German-style barbecue with plenty of grilled to a crisp meat (not for me).

Two days ago it was travel to Pernes Les Fontaines, a nice village with 40 fountains scattered through the town, with a walk along what is now a small stream, but in the spring must be more water filling the channel. Each town here has its own attractions, focal point, and beauty, its own reasons for history and its existence.

Who knows what tomorrow will bring other than more sun and more beauty.

End of First Week - Bliss

So, already a week in to the trip. Don't really know where the time has gone. Sleeping alot. Listening to music, and reading three books already. Cooking, exploring, shopping, the usual things.

D. had to return to the US for two days of important business meetings, so I was driving the Renault 6-speed manual for that time. It was quite enjoyable on the Autoroute and on the local roads to remember how to shift, down-shift and really focus on driving. When I drive an automatic, it is entirely different as I am less focused and my mind can wander more.

So on Wens. the dog and I got up early and ventured to the St. Remy market, arriving at 9a.m. and noticing not many people, some new vendors, but 95% of the same ones, in their same spots. The days here have been very hot, 90F, so early is definitely better, especially with the dog. Many people had the same ideas, and dogs of all shapes, sizes and varieties were out enjoying the day.

As always, I stocked up on spices and dried lavender for the year, examined the latest in Provence fashion, and walked the town. Most businesses have survived the Great Recession, a few new ones opened, a few have closed, and our favorite ice cream spot was renovated over the winter and is now much more swank. With S. one evening I found a new spot for wonderful local produce and products, mostly biologic (organic) and certainly where local St. Remy people shop. We have committed this year to trying more of the small stores, the butchers and cheese shops, that are struggling to survive against the supermarche' and Carrefore's of the area, just as at home these stores have disappeared. Who has a real butcher any more in their town? We feel fortunate to have a bakery near our house, however mediocre it can be at times.

Upon D's return, we traveled today to the market in Eygalieres to find our favorite olive oil, and to explore the town a little more. It is small but rather like the upper East Side of the area. Dogs and people out for a stroll. We sat in our favorite cafe, drank Perrier, and enjoyed the show of people as they walked and shopped. We watched one American family as the mother tried to negotiate the price of the best Olive Oil in the country La Fabresse, who has one the national medal for Olive Oil the last two years. Eating that oil on a piece of bread is a revelation. So to hear someone arguing over the price of the $12 bottle of oil seemed quite absurd. We will be back in that town on July 13 for the annual Fete' de Paella.

So we wandered and watched as the vendors made the paella for the day's lunch, and admired the nouget that we will never eat. It is white with nuts and chewy, and too sweet for us. But, as always with food here, it is a piece of art.

The afternoon was about quiet, sleeping and reading, as it should be.