The Taste of France

When we return home, as we have now, we try to remember the differences of here and there. The most important for us is the freshness, the taste of the food, the beauty of the place which lives in the fruit and vegetables. It is not something that can be truly described. But when I come home, I am reminded again and again, how our food has been deluged with chemicals and processing to tastelessness. It may look good, but the flavor has been washed out of it somehow. Maybe it is our water or our soil, but it is a huge void. Maybe we are always eating so much because the food lacks flavor and we drown it in spices and sauces to make it taste like something, it can never achieve.

Something I found in our little shop in St. Remy and now notice in other shops is a peche de la vigne, it is an almost flat peach, which tastes so sweet and light, the way I remember peaches tasting as a child, and the taste I search for every summer when I eat even organic peaches and find them lacking.

Fette de Paella

And again, we attended what is now the 14th annual paella festival in Eygellieres, always the night before Bastille Day.

We spent more time in that town on this trip, learning that it is a place where everyone knows one another, that we can stroll down the street and find people even we know. It is rather like being on the upper east side of NYC, with local pubs, like the Cafe du la Place with its small tables, odd quirky bathroom, excellent tapinade and very cold drinks. Hard to get a table on any day, much less market days, and to sit and watch the scene is great fun, cars pulling up and much kissing and hugging, smoking, drinking and laughing.

The fette was fun as always, great food, great entertainment, and many people and dogs, on a night full of charm and community, not an American style barbecue, that is certain. In America it would be beer, hot dogs, hamburgers and watermelon. In France, it is paella, Cavaillon melon (which is nothing like the melon we have in the States), baguettes, cheese, and ice cream, and lots of wine. The cafes bring drinks to the tables and water for the dogs and everyone dances into the morning.

More Avignon at Night

As you can see from this photo, the ferris wheel in the distance, which is off outside the city walls, an rises high over the city on the banks of the river giving a spectacular view of the city inside and out, the river, the modern windmills in the distance, the anachronism of ancient and modern all mixed up.

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St. Remy de Provence

We always enjoy market day, Wens., in St. Remy. As with most French markets, going early is better in the summer to avoid the heat and the crowds. One of our goals this year was to really pay attention to vendors in the markets we go to each week so we could learn which ones have the best local foods. We realized that our favorite cheese vendor from the Apt market is also each week in St. Remy and in Eygallieres. We recognize the clothes and tablecloth vendors. It took D. about 15 seconds to insult one in Apt by asking whether the cloths were manufactured in China (they are) even if they are designed in France (they are) and finished in France (they are). We saw the same vendor in St. Remy and knew to avoid him.

street theater in avignon

Avignon, the city of popes, is a beautiful, walled city that is famous for its university and charm. But more importantly, it is famous for its annual summer theater festival, held in July each year. It is difficult to contemplate attending the productions unless your French is fairly fluent, but just to walk the streets, and enjoy the young actors as they entertain you trying to sell you on their production, is entertainment enough. Then there are the singers, musicians and dancers, jugglers, and so many other forms of street theater, it is fascinating, the energy exciting.

In Avignon, there are many good restaurants, but somehow we always end up at this small Vietnamese restaurant which is inexpensive and friendly service. Usually after a few weeks of French food it is a refreshing change.

The actors spend hours and days before the festival begins hanging posters advertising their performances all over the city, climbing walls and poles going ever higher than their competitors, only to tear them all down after their show has closed.

Favorite Provence Markets

Still contemplating and digesting our trip and in doing so, compiled our list of markets we enjoy. This is by no means comprehensive. I am attaching links to other lists of Provence area market days.

Tuesday: Apt

Wens. : St. Remy

Friday : Eygellieres

Sat. : Apt

Sunday : Isle Sur La Sorge (a must see but get there very early as it gets crowded quickly).

Every day: Avignon (les Halles)

Aix

Valleron (evenings 6-8p for fruits and vegetables)

next year we will be traveling to Vaison La Romaine on a Monday

Nyons on a thursday and St. Martin du Crau for a Friday market for comparison.

Here are the links to other lists:

http://www.provence-hideaway.com/303.html

http://provence.angloinfo.com/information/7/markets.asp

Bon chance.

Is the Riviera O-V-E-R?

Clearly some people think so:

http://www.thedailybeast.com/blogs-and-stories/2010-08-16/yacht-scene-in-st-tropez-monte-carlo-goes-downhill/

http://www.thedailybeast.com/blogs-and-stories/2010-08-10/the-mysterious-burglar-on-the-french-riviera/full/full/

We have spent much time on the French Riviera and would have to agree with these articles. Safety was definitely a concern even five years ago in Cannes, as we heard stories from people we knew who had homes locally about being robbed. Also, we noted increasing hotel security and other issues. We were advised to watch our children carefully due to kidnapping threats etc.

Although we still enjoy a day in St. Tropez, as it is beautiful and fun, but it does not have the glamour it used to have. But it is always an enjoyable, hot, day at the beach and a nice dinner then back to the peace and quiet (except for the cicadas) of Provence.

Alice Waters and Provence

Beautiful article about Alice Waters and her love of Provence:

http://www.thedailybeast.com/blogs-and-stories/2010-08-14/alice-waters-on-her-favorite-summer-foods-from-a-french-vineyard/?cid=hp:mainpromo6